Just looked back at my before pic on page 2. Man I hated those plastic flares, especially since the install was terrible. I like the new ones even more now! The bolts are stainless, I'm going to just leave them. I just got done painting and mounting rear barn doors, tire carrier, etc. and am using stainless bolts pretty much everywhere. They're not JIS and they don't match stock. The bolts on the doors are hex head, not phillips, for example. I'm not trying to do a restoration just take care of fixing rust and undoing crap from the PO. I've fought so many rusted bolts that I'm using stainless wherever practical, if I don't need hardened bolts.
Possible Group Buy - Flat Steel FJ40 Rear Fender Protection (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Fast Eddy
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #84
Current group:
1. @Cruiserdrew +countersink
2. @gslinger
3. @RolandFJ40 +countersink
4.
@oogs ?
@Fulmar ?
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Very interested. Just reading up on how it is going to work with stock axl set up. I know you all talked about it. Just trying read and wrap my head on how difficult it will be. Can it be delivered directly to VA (22066)?
My PO's hack job on the wells...
My PO's hack job on the wells...
- Thread starter
- #87
Look at Laveycrafter's pics on the previous page (pg 4). You can see how the front tip of the fender protection piece extends forward of the body seam. You have to bend the 3/16" steel there to get it to sit flat against the tub. The front-lower hole is not punched by the fab shop so you can drill it where it fits best for your application.
Edit: @oogs, see how your axle sits a little forward in the wheelwell? IMO, it would be worth your time to pull the axle out and drill an extra set of holes in the perches to move it back an inch or a bit more, depending on the driveshaft slip joint. For a couple hundred bucks you could flip the springs and get the driveshaft extended to get some extra wheelbase. With a measuring tape, you can figure out the how far forward of center the tire sits on the spring, then pull the tire off and set it where it will end up to see how you like it. Installing the fender protection plates will then re-center the wheel wells.
Here's a pic of my rig before the plates:
I'm also interested to know that you have some lip left at the top to drill the holes for the fender protection pieces. On my rig there wasn't much there, maybe only 3/4", but it was enough.
Yea, I make little flat crates that cost about $25. They're a PITA, but they work. We'll work out shipping when they're done. It'll be about $60 (guess) to you including the crate.
I'll put you on the list tentatively for now.
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- Thread starter
- #89
Done. I'll try to get down to the fab shop tomorrow and get some pricing.
My concern is I will be running wider 12.5 's and this gonna hit and rub. Setting back the axl is just not in the cards right now. Will wider tires rub these add ins without a lift? Argh
Will 10.5's and no movement of the axl work?
2 concerns
1- I feel there will be too much overlap of the tire in the front if I don't set the axl back
2- any pics of the fender protector with respect to the gas fill. Very close on mine
1- I feel there will be too much overlap of the tire in the front if I don't set the axl back
2- any pics of the fender protector with respect to the gas fill. Very close on mine
- Thread starter
- #95
You could notch the steel at the gas fill if you want. You know my feeling about moving the axle back. It's a win-win. You're already forward of center.
Please advise quickly if you're out. I ordered them today.
Please advise quickly if you're out. I ordered them today.
I'm interested in a pair now that I got the lift with tall skinny tires. I hate how far the plastic flares stick out. Let me know if there's any left over or if I have to wait for another group buy.
Roland
Roland
- Thread starter
- #97
I've been working on a new supplier. Or more accurately, have been procrastinating doing so. We'll see what I can find.
If anyone has a suggestion for a fab shop with a CNC waterjet or plasma table in NorCal outside the immediate bay area, please let me know. Pricing around here is silly, IMO.
If anyone has a suggestion for a fab shop with a CNC waterjet or plasma table in NorCal outside the immediate bay area, please let me know. Pricing around here is silly, IMO.
Is it possible since you have to find a new supplier that maybe the design can change to look exactly how the tub looked stock and uncut? I'd also need the holes moved up as I have no lip under the fender to attach too.
- Thread starter
- #99
The inner radius is traced off my stock and uncut 40. I'm not sure what you mean otherwise.
To change the design, you'd have to pay the startup costs. The first set was about double the cost of the copies.
You could make them yourself with a jig saw, a stack of blades, a 1/2 sheet of steel and some ear plugs.
Ok it's a stock look then, was getting confused with all the axle move talk i guess. The only change would be hole locations since there's no lip under the fender to attach.
