Possible Group Buy - Flat Steel FJ40 Rear Fender Protection

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just looked back at my before pic on page 2. Man I hated those plastic flares, especially since the install was terrible. I like the new ones even more now! The bolts are stainless, I'm going to just leave them. I just got done painting and mounting rear barn doors, tire carrier, etc. and am using stainless bolts pretty much everywhere. They're not JIS and they don't match stock. The bolts on the doors are hex head, not phillips, for example. I'm not trying to do a restoration just take care of fixing rust and undoing crap from the PO. I've fought so many rusted bolts that I'm using stainless wherever practical, if I don't need hardened bolts.
 
Ed, count me in for a set. They look great.
 
Very interested. Just reading up on how it is going to work with stock axl set up. I know you all talked about it. Just trying read and wrap my head on how difficult it will be. Can it be delivered directly to VA (22066)?

My PO's hack job on the wells...
ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1440637783.942204.webp
 
oogs said:
reading up on how it is going to work with stock axl set up.
Click to expand...

Look at Laveycrafter's pics on the previous page (pg 4). You can see how the front tip of the fender protection piece extends forward of the body seam. You have to bend the 3/16" steel there to get it to sit flat against the tub. The front-lower hole is not punched by the fab shop so you can drill it where it fits best for your application.

Edit: @oogs, see how your axle sits a little forward in the wheelwell? IMO, it would be worth your time to pull the axle out and drill an extra set of holes in the perches to move it back an inch or a bit more, depending on the driveshaft slip joint. For a couple hundred bucks you could flip the springs and get the driveshaft extended to get some extra wheelbase. With a measuring tape, you can figure out the how far forward of center the tire sits on the spring, then pull the tire off and set it where it will end up to see how you like it. Installing the fender protection plates will then re-center the wheel wells.

Here's a pic of my rig before the plates:

marvin_3223-jpg.633014


I'm also interested to know that you have some lip left at the top to drill the holes for the fender protection pieces. On my rig there wasn't much there, maybe only 3/4", but it was enough.

oogs said:
Can it be delivered directly to VA (22066)?
Click to expand...

Yea, I make little flat crates that cost about $25. They're a PITA, but they work. We'll work out shipping when they're done. It'll be about $60 (guess) to you including the crate.

I'll put you on the list tentatively for now.
 
Last edited:
I've been working on a new supplier. Or more accurately, have been procrastinating doing so. We'll see what I can find.

If anyone has a suggestion for a fab shop with a CNC waterjet or plasma table in NorCal outside the immediate bay area, please let me know. Pricing around here is silly, IMO.
 
RolandFJ40 said:
Is it possible since you have to find a new supplier that maybe the design can change to look exactly how the tub looked stock and uncut? I'd also need the holes moved up as I have no lip under the fender to attach too.
Click to expand...

The inner radius is traced off my stock and uncut 40. I'm not sure what you mean otherwise.

To change the design, you'd have to pay the startup costs. The first set was about double the cost of the copies.

You could make them yourself with a jig saw, a stack of blades, a 1/2 sheet of steel and some ear plugs.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom