- Thread starter
- #21
My axle is fj60-width with 4" backspace 16x7 rims and 315/75-16 Treadwrights. They tuck inside the fenders.
You're on the list. We'll keep it open for now. One more and I'll put myself down as #5 to make it happen.
Possible Group Buy - Flat Steel FJ40 Rear Fender Protection (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Fast Eddy
- Start date
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My axle is fj60-width with 4" backspace 16x7 rims and 315/75-16 Treadwrights. They tuck inside the fenders.
You're on the list. We'll keep it open for now. One more and I'll put myself down as #5 to make it happen.
Any update, Biscuit? Hoping we can fill that last spot.
Eddy, how much is your rear axle moved to the rear? I thought these were a great idea when you first posted them, and I need something like these as well to fix (hide) the hack job on my rear fenders as well.
I might be in for a pair, but I'm wondering how they are going to fit on a stock wheelbase 40
Thanks
I might be in for a pair, but I'm wondering how they are going to fit on a stock wheelbase 40
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #24
It's moved back about 2.5" or just a little more. Look at some side views of a stocker and you can see that the front bolt hole of these would line up where the quarter panel meets the front of the tub, but they still would move the rear edge of the front of the fender back about 2.5-3". To make them work on a stocker, you'd want to trim an inch or a little more off of the leading edge, move the lowest bolt hole back by an inch, then trim the back edge. You'd have to do some photoshop to make sure it would look ok.
It would be a great opportunity for you to drill a second hole into your spring perches and move the axle back an inch or so too.
Now that you've got me looking, that back edge shouldn't be sharp, it should be rounded like the stock fender opening.. I'll see if they can fix that in the next batch.
If it will sway your decision to sign up, I could motivate to get another counter sink bit, finish my passenger side and while it's off, clamp it to my stocker and see how it can be made to work. I couldn't do this before next weekend, at the earliest.
It would be a great opportunity for you to drill a second hole into your spring perches and move the axle back an inch or so too.
Now that you've got me looking, that back edge shouldn't be sharp, it should be rounded like the stock fender opening.. I'll see if they can fix that in the next batch.
If it will sway your decision to sign up, I could motivate to get another counter sink bit, finish my passenger side and while it's off, clamp it to my stocker and see how it can be made to work. I couldn't do this before next weekend, at the earliest.
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Unfortunately I'm out at the moment. I need to finish all the in progress projects first, starting with a rapidly worsening steering situation.
Sorry guys.
I took some measurements based on the original pics in your build thread. I'm fairly certain they will fit just fine, likely ill just move them forward enough to center the opening over the tire (more or less) rather than the other way around.
I'll take a set.
I'll take a set.
- Thread starter
- #28
Looks like this is a "go". Set #5 is available. I don't need another set, just greasing the skids. Once all is said and done I'll offer the set for sale in the classifieds for $200obo unless someone steps up earlier. I'll probably put up an ebay auction for a set too, just to see if there is other interest.
If you guys don't mind, can you post up at least one picture of where you're going to install them? Too many group buys go bad due to miscommunication. Let's get this one perfect. I don't have time to go over to the fab shop today anyway, so we've got the weekend to talk about it.
I'm going to get the shop to change the design to have the rear edge of the front of the pieces rounded like the original tub. Not sure how I missed that originally, but it bothers me now that I've noticed it. I'm going to fix my set with a grinder.
I'm also going to bring the mounting holes a bit (3/8?) towards the center of the steel. You will see in my pictures that I ended up mounting it down just a bit and trimming the bottoms. That's because the mounting holes would have otherwise interfered with the tops of the fenders.
If you guys don't mind, can you post up at least one picture of where you're going to install them? Too many group buys go bad due to miscommunication. Let's get this one perfect. I don't have time to go over to the fab shop today anyway, so we've got the weekend to talk about it.
I'm going to get the shop to change the design to have the rear edge of the front of the pieces rounded like the original tub. Not sure how I missed that originally, but it bothers me now that I've noticed it. I'm going to fix my set with a grinder.
I'm also going to bring the mounting holes a bit (3/8?) towards the center of the steel. You will see in my pictures that I ended up mounting it down just a bit and trimming the bottoms. That's because the mounting holes would have otherwise interfered with the tops of the fenders.
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- Thread starter
- #29
That will work. A couple things: The front mounting hole, as it is planned, would be in the tub, past the b-pillar seam. That will work fine. That tub seam ls not 'flat'. You'd need to bend the 3/16" steel a bit to make it just right. If you want to move the mounting hole, I could have them not punch that one hole. I considered it when I made my set, but in the end they punched it and it worked for me.
I'm not in a rush, these would likely be installed this winter, along with other work.
Here are pics' I linked them rather than put them in the thread as they are on the large side.
(yes the diamond plate is going to be removed).
I'm likely going to patch the stock fuel filler, and hopefully use the recess bit to re-construct the rear filler. This along with the installation of a new 21gal rear fuel tank. After the tank is in I may also look at moving the rear axle back a touch as well, don't want to do that until the tank is in though so I can check clearances
My fenders are horribly hogged out, the top and front edge follows the line of the inner fender well. Which brings out the question, where are the holes in "fender fixer" located? Are they inside the tub or outside? Specifically the top three, and the ones forward which will be the main sticking points.
I am also considering trimming the rocker panels some, which could also affect my option with regard to placement.
Any chance I could get you to trace one of the plates on some paper, fold it up and mail it to me? That would be a sure-fire method for checking fitment.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr271/diskord_/landcruiser/working/IMAG0328_zps68667896.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr271/diskord_/landcruiser/working/IMAG0327_zps855a55a0.jpg
1911
chupacabra
Standard fender flares on mine but you can't tell that one side doesn't match the other both in terms of how far forward they are or the overall shape. Plus, I flipped my rear springs so the axle is ~3.5-4 inches back compared to this picture, so I really need the opening to move back a few inches.
- Thread starter
- #33
They are underneath, not on top of the wheel well. They're close enough that they could be mounted high, or you could tack on some mounting tabs to what's left of your fenders. If you wanted, you could get a set with no holes and tack them from behind all the way around.
Diskord said:
Good idea. I'll do that as well as clamp one onto my stocker and take some pics.
1911, it looks like you don't have a lot of meat to bolt onto either. How much lip is left below the fender top? How about in the front? Take a look under there. There is some bracing that almost interferes with the bolt holes. I got kind of lucky with the placement of the holes and it bolted up fine where I placed them. Not sure, yet, about if you move them up to the location of stock wheelbase. Thought about flipping your springs and gaining some wheelbase?
At one spot, on my right side, the cut fender just peeks out from under the steel. I'll take a picture of that too. I'm a bit worried about the top of 1911s cutout on the right side.
Making some out of thin cardboard and sending them out is a really good idea.
Philly, you should flip your springs too.
If all you four have std wheelbase, we could make some changes in the design. It might cost a couple bucks more if it's a major change, but I'll bet it would not be. Look at how my rearmost mounting hole is right under the marker light, then look at where Philly's flare ends at the rear compared to the marker light.
Fender pasted on as designed:
Slightly shortened (note two bolts closer together, would be fixed):
As designed, but moved forward (forward bolt hole would not work exactly in this location because of what's behind the sheet metal where the panels meet):
I like the last one the best, if we can make the mounting holes work. I fear the forward holes above the first one would be inside the tub.
Opinions? (I'm going to have only sporadic access to a computer from now until Sunday late afternoon...)
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I did flip my springs since this photo was taken, so my axle is back a bit. I just was showing what flare I'm replacing. Moving the opening back a few inches and cleaning things up are my objective. The original design should work for me.
Thought about both ideas, tacking them on, and welding some mounting tabs.
IMHO Trace something on paper and mail it. I've got cardboard I can tape the paper to and make a proper template.
Tried to match up a photo from your original thread, and a pic of mine...original position, and moved to work.
I still think they will work for me, granted not as originally intended, but my only other options would be to replace the quarter panels, or leave it as is.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr271/diskord_/original_zpsaa318007.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/rr271/diskord_/moved_zpsd3a3ad88.jpg
- Thread starter
- #38
Send me a PM with your address if you want a tracing. I didn't get to it this weekend, as I had planned, but I'll do it after work one night this week.
I did look at how it would go to move the fender protection forward to a more stock location. The only issue I can see is that the 2nd hole from the bottom would be inside of a square tube portion of the tub. This picture, with the quarter removed, shows the square tube. The mounting hole in my application is just aft of this, inside the fender. All of my mounting holes are inside the fender, but if you moved it forward, the 2nd lowest hole would move into this tube. You could use a nutsert, or cut a hole into the bottom or rear of the tube so you could put a regular nut on the back of the hex bolt.
I did look at how it would go to move the fender protection forward to a more stock location. The only issue I can see is that the 2nd hole from the bottom would be inside of a square tube portion of the tub. This picture, with the quarter removed, shows the square tube. The mounting hole in my application is just aft of this, inside the fender. All of my mounting holes are inside the fender, but if you moved it forward, the 2nd lowest hole would move into this tube. You could use a nutsert, or cut a hole into the bottom or rear of the tube so you could put a regular nut on the back of the hex bolt.
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1911
chupacabra
Unfortunately, I have hardly any lip left below the fender top (maybe 3/8" or 7/16") and almost nothing left on the front sides.
I have thought about flipping my springs, and this may be the impetus to finally do it. I could convert my drive shaft to a double cardan at the same time, which I've also been wanting to do.
Anyone else in CO interested?
