POR 15 question

myquestoyota

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I am planning on doing the bed in my cruiser with the POR 15. I mostly want to treat the rust and make the pan one color. I don't have the proper space or desire right now to do a resto, I want a driver. What I have not found in a search is whether I can do the POR over painted surfaces if the are clean and prepped properly? I have a mix of paint, surface rust, and bare metal. I will be wire brushing and removing as much surface rust as possible.
Thoughts, experiences, and advice welcome.:hmm:
 
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I put POR in the area where the gas tank sits on my 73. It was a combination similar to yours, rust, paint and bare metal, I wire wheeled it, treated it with the chemical they use, ospho I think, which is cheaper if you buy it at the local farm and ranch or welding supply. It basically removes the rust, then I wire wheeled the area again and painted it. Use in a well ventillated area and wear gloves.
 
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"rolled up ball of masking tape works great."

that is a good idea, much simpler than the ideas that were running through my head! I will keep it in mind when I get to the POR stage.
 

myquestoyota

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Thanks, I heard the rolled up ball of tape thing on a roll in herculiner thread. I'll do that AND run a tap down the holes. I just did that on on my top holes, chucked the tap into my cordless drill and made the rounds.
 
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If you spray the stuff, make sure you spend the $20 for a 3m organic vapor respirator. The stuff is very toxic if sprayed. Works great for rust and bare metal..It sticks to painted surfaces but the rust-stopping effect is hampered if there is other paint on the surface
 
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I believe POR-15 is not UV tolerant, so you'll have to apply their top coat. They recommend you clean first with their marine clean, then metal prep. Ends up being too many steps. I used it once before on another vehicle, but with my 40, I'm going to try Rust Bullet.
 
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I believe POR-15 is not UV tolerant, so you'll have to apply their top coat. They recommend you clean first with their marine clean, then metal prep. Ends up being too many steps. I used it once before on another vehicle, but with my 40, I'm going to try Rust Bullet.

Not only does it need to be top coated, but you need to apply etching primer and then POR-15 tie-coat primer before you can top coat. Otherwise, the top coat WILL NOT adhere properly.
 

myquestoyota

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good info

That rust bullet looks pretty cool but I'm comitted to the por for budget reasons. I think the kit comes with the chassis black that is the top coat. I read about using the hurculiner with por and it said to apply when the por tacked up, not cured. I'll post up with my results, thanks for the tips.
 
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Not only does it need to be top coated, but you need to apply etching primer and then POR-15 tie-coat primer before you can top coat. Otherwise, the top coat WILL NOT adhere properly.

Does the grey POR rust protector need to be top coated, if it will not be exposed to direct sunlight? Say for example on your firewall and the underside of the tub? I had planned on doing both, but the grey looks nice so I thought I may leave it since it will see little to no UV.
 
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OK, here's what I would do since you're on a budget. It's going to take some time, but you can do it cheaply and more importantly, it'll get done right the first time!

1) Wirewheel the entire floor.

2) Apply rust encapsulator over any rust that you couldn't remove with the wire wheel. Rust Encapsulator Paint - Stop Rust and Corrosion

3) Prime

4) Paint

The POR-15 route won't be much easier if you do it right and it'll be more expensive. POR-15 won't stick properly to previously painted or wire-wheeled surfaces.
 

myquestoyota

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Well, as one forum regular says "look ere you leap". I have already ordered the POR floor kit so will most likely be using it. I have heard lots of pros and cons and really liked the rust encapsulator stuff, still might store the por and do the encapsulator but it doesn't look like fewer steps.
thanks
 
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I used POR-15 on my trailer frame. I sanded it the best I could. It wasn't totally 100% bare metal, just cleaned up really good. Sprayed the POR-15 from a paint gun. I then used a clearcoat, a automotive clearcoat and sprayed it on the frame, POR-15 will break down in the sun. The frame looks really good and the POR-15 is holding up well.
 
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I've used por 15 on a few different frames, and a gas tank. Worked great on all of them and if its not in direct sunlight its fine without top coat (IE on a frame under the truck) but I didn't know about the direct sunlight business when I did it and used it on a bumper and it was peeling in about a month.

Easy stuff to use I used a few cheep brushes to put it on.

A quick word of advice: The part of the can that says "only time will remove por15 from skin" isn't kidding. I had black arms for a good 2.5 weeks after doing it the first time. Pickup a box of disposable gloves and wear clothes you don't like (or would look better black)
 

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