Please Help! - Can't shift into low range after crawler gear install
- Thread starter bryanb
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- #22
New, related question..
Regarding the clutch sleeve on the differential shaft, the FSM shows a diagram of the beveled side of the collar facing the low range gear. However, there is virtually no discernible difference (bevel) in the left or right shoulder of that particular clutch sleeve (unlike the clutch sleeve on the lay shaft which has a distinct bevel on one side). Does anybody recall how to know which way to locate it?
Regarding the clutch sleeve on the differential shaft, the FSM shows a diagram of the beveled side of the collar facing the low range gear. However, there is virtually no discernible difference (bevel) in the left or right shoulder of that particular clutch sleeve (unlike the clutch sleeve on the lay shaft which has a distinct bevel on one side). Does anybody recall how to know which way to locate it?
I would agree there doesn't seem to be a difference. I was careful when reassembling mine and never flipped it back over. Here is what both sides look like...
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- #24
ummm, doesn't yours "appear" to be in the opposite orientation as the FSM? It has the slightest bevel, but it's AWAY from the low range gear.
you want to take mine apart?.....just don't put it back backwards!!!
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- #26
Can anyone tell me if there is a punch mark (a small indent) on the face of either of your clutch sleeves. I don't have mine with me, but I seem to remember there being one. Maybe we can use those to identify which direction they are oriented.
In fact, it looks like i can see a punch mark in the top picture posted by Lazy...
In fact, it looks like i can see a punch mark in the top picture posted by Lazy...
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- #27
you want to take mine apart?.....just don't put it back backwards!!!
I may have to take you up on that. Are you around today?
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- #28
Following up on this... This was really a school-of-hard-knocks kinda project. I learned a lot (to put a positive spin on it).
It turned out to be nothing that was previously discussed on this thread. I was sort of on the right path in that I was trying to figure out why the clutch sleeve didn't want to go onto the clutch hub, however it didn't have to do with the orientation of the sleeves (although you do want to make sure you install them correctly... easy trick on that (other than just paying attention to how they were removed)... the clutches have engagement lugs on one side that engage the "idler low gear" or "high speed output gear" respectively).
It turned out that when I was removing the gears from the shafts via the press, I damaged a clutch hub. I couldn't tell the first time I performed the disassembly, but the taper of the bearing separator actually pulled up against the teeth of the clutch hub and dis-formed the edges of some of the teeth. Unfortunately, I fully swapped out the low range gears and re-assembled everything (including the transfer case back into the truck) before finally trying to shift it into low range, and then realizing it wouldn't fully engage low range due to the clutch sleeve being unable to slide completely onto the clutch hub. Make sense?
Well, lesson learned... I hope.
It turned out to be nothing that was previously discussed on this thread. I was sort of on the right path in that I was trying to figure out why the clutch sleeve didn't want to go onto the clutch hub, however it didn't have to do with the orientation of the sleeves (although you do want to make sure you install them correctly... easy trick on that (other than just paying attention to how they were removed)... the clutches have engagement lugs on one side that engage the "idler low gear" or "high speed output gear" respectively).
It turned out that when I was removing the gears from the shafts via the press, I damaged a clutch hub. I couldn't tell the first time I performed the disassembly, but the taper of the bearing separator actually pulled up against the teeth of the clutch hub and dis-formed the edges of some of the teeth. Unfortunately, I fully swapped out the low range gears and re-assembled everything (including the transfer case back into the truck) before finally trying to shift it into low range, and then realizing it wouldn't fully engage low range due to the clutch sleeve being unable to slide completely onto the clutch hub. Make sense?
Well, lesson learned... I hope.
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Hay don't feel bad. I had mine in and out twice & pulled apart on the bench before it was dialed in. I did the low gears and part time conversion. Working good now! Second time I put it in, the diff lock actuator was out of phase with the dash switch so I had to pull the actuator & shift the t-case by hand to get them in phase. Character building experience! Glad you're up and running now!
Mine was the same except I couldn't get neutral in the T/C. It would grind as soon as you let the clutch out when nothing was meant to be engaged.
how do you like the marlin crawl gear? been thinking about doing this myself.
If your in the rocks, you want the lower gears.
I understand, I'm in the rocks a lot. I guess I should be more specific with my question.
@bryanb if you could only do one which would you do: A) 3:1 transfer case crawler gear B) 4.88 or 5.29 diff gears?
@bryanb if you could only do one which would you do: A) 3:1 transfer case crawler gear B) 4.88 or 5.29 diff gears?
That's a good question. If your tires are such that your engine / trans requires lower diffs, then I'd do diffs. I'm only running 33" tires on mine so i did the t-case gears and used the existing axle ratios. Actually, it started with a part time TC conversion and while I was in there I did the gears so I didn't have to pull the thing apart twice. I probably could have kept the orig TC gears since I use mine more for over landing than for serious wheeling. They are nice in the rocks though.
Save you cash and do everything! These trucks are worth it!
Save you cash and do everything! These trucks are worth it!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Unfortunately you have to do both. The gears to match the tires. Then the lowest low range that will fit. I like the Marlin gears. You would not thing 25% would be that big a deal but you notice it immediately on harder trails.
I have 5.29s and the crawler gears. The crawler gears make things easier, but you won't be getting over anything you couldn't without them (provided you have 5.29s). IMO, the best thing about the crawler gears is the extra control you get going downhill. it would be ideal to have some sort of doubler for the 80 (I also have a 1st gen 4runner with dual cases which I bought after I gave up on trying to make the 80 into a true rock crawler). I'd personally go with the t case gears and leave the diff gears stock to save money if I could only choose to do one (trail gear t case gears are only 299).
At the end of the day, if you really want to play in big rocks the 80 is not the right platform. Great truck and will get you through most things, but if you want to do hammers trails or similar save yourself a lot of money and go with something a lot lighter and with better gearing options. Smartest thing I ever did was end up with 2 trucks, the 80 for anything up to Clawhammer and the 4runner for anything more severe.
Just my 2 cents.
At the end of the day, if you really want to play in big rocks the 80 is not the right platform. Great truck and will get you through most things, but if you want to do hammers trails or similar save yourself a lot of money and go with something a lot lighter and with better gearing options. Smartest thing I ever did was end up with 2 trucks, the 80 for anything up to Clawhammer and the 4runner for anything more severe.
Just my 2 cents.
I love playing in the rocks with my 80. Its pretty well equipped to do just that. I have done trails rated 8-9 out of 10 on the traildamage rating which I admit is similar to a ski resorts run ratting in the sense that they vary per trail.
Reason I ask is because I am carrying a lot of weight and have encountered several instances where I got to an obstacle and i didn't have the gearing to get over it. I had to bump it.
The crawler gear sounds like the ticket as it provides a better final drive ratio than 4.88's alone and its a fraction of the cost.
Reason I ask is because I am carrying a lot of weight and have encountered several instances where I got to an obstacle and i didn't have the gearing to get over it. I had to bump it.
The crawler gear sounds like the ticket as it provides a better final drive ratio than 4.88's alone and its a fraction of the cost.
Good job doing the followup - we all have our 'senior moments', and frankly the guy who just owns it & closes a thread has my respect over all the ones who don't.
I have a new set of rubber on the way, been thinking about the gears myself for a few places I'd like a little lower low, we don't have the boulders here but sometimes the harder/higher/hairy-er ground is the driest way to keep traction & not excercise the winch rope.
I have a new set of rubber on the way, been thinking about the gears myself for a few places I'd like a little lower low, we don't have the boulders here but sometimes the harder/higher/hairy-er ground is the driest way to keep traction & not excercise the winch rope.
Just place an order for the 3.11:1 Trail gear crawler gear. Did you replace any bearings or seals while you were in there @bryanb?