Builds Pigpen 🐷 an HDJ80 LHD Ute (2 Viewers)

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The cheesy picture!

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Wheels and spacers are supposed to arrive today too so if I can get them mounted we will get some real pics.

I am already stoked! 😆

Cheers
 
So the wheels didn’t show up Friday.

I don’t think I mentioned it but I am shooting for 3” of backspacing with Toyota axles. For a 17” wheel I have trouble finding the right BS unless it is a beadlock. Even less choices for a steelie. Wheels I bought are 4.5” with -12 so I got some Spidertrax wheel spacers too. It should land around 2.5” of BS which I am just going to run until I buy beadlocks. I think I have also decided on KMC for those but until I have five lug axles built no point in buying them.


With the Procomp ($110 each), spacers and Patagonias I am at under $2500 delivered so it all checked most of my boxes. Mount them up next week.

My 1HDFT should be back from the machine shop in three weeks.

Cheers
 
Alrighty so I just played with a tape measure, plumb bob and level for a little while. If anything these numbers are for me later on and I am not breaking any new ground here.

First off, the Patagonias look more sidewall buldgie in pics then they really are. I haven’t checked pressure but I am sure the tire shop overfilled them making the crown a bit more round. Lets just say after looking at pics on the internet and now having them, they are less sidewall poke than I expected.

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Currently unsprung with stock coils and shocks the Ute has about 4” of lift, I am shooting for 3-4” finished.

Axles are off center f&r by an inch but here is poke. It’s right in there at 3-4” wider than stock which is where I want to be.

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With roughly 2.75” of backspacing here’s brakes and their “poke” as I call it.

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Cheers
 
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Now we are talking a proper Land Cruiser! 😂

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A half inch towards the frame is centered which is 4” off the rail.

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Now with a 5ft bed!

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6ft bed

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23” under the frame at the belly and approximately 13” under the diffs.

Cheers
 
As expected rub even at approximate lift height. Been planning moving the front axle forward roughly an inch and clearancing the wheel wells.

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Lots of room in front, I know it isn’t stuffed. Probably carve up the core support a bit anyways. Planning to clearance and build to suit 40’s.

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The cheapo wheels!

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Cheers
 
The light is a little better now.

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I like it, fairly low for the stance. I should have got 40’s!! 😂🤦‍♂️😆😑🤙

The crown on these definitely adds to the “bubble” tire look. Tire shop had 60psi in them though 🤦‍♂️ I dropped them to 34.

I do plan to run flares in front of some sort at least. Got kind of a crazy idea, Aussie style fender bars but beefed up a lot to take a roll over frenched into OEM flares and tied into the frame. 🥸

Back doesn’t matter now, in fact 38’s look puny back there now! 🤣 Build the bed around tire size (38/40’s) keeping it to max stock stuff.

Also grabbed a 93+ RHS door to replace the 91-92 I had got for it. 91-92 doesn’t have side impact bar so that really was the main reason to get it, my LHS does. It’s got side trim holes to weld up but otherwise is perfect.

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Cheers
 
Just screwing around here but I think I just scored these new 79-series 60/40 seats.

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It will take some customizing but they will work and I like them.

Cheers
 
The light is a little better now.

View attachment 3591312

I like it, fairly low for the stance. I should have got 40’s!! 😂🤦‍♂️😆😑🤙

The crown on these definitely adds to the “bubble” tire look. Tire shop had 60psi in them though 🤦‍♂️ I dropped them to 34.

I do plan to run flares in front of some sort at least. Got kind of a crazy idea, Aussie style fender bars but beefed up a lot to take a roll over frenched into OEM flares and tied into the frame. 🥸

Back doesn’t matter now, in fact 38’s look puny back there now! 🤣 Build the bed around tire size (38/40’s) keeping it to max stock stuff.

Also grabbed a 93+ RHS door to replace the 91-92 I had got for it. 91-92 doesn’t have side impact bar so that really was the main reason to get it, my LHS does. It’s got side trim holes to weld up but otherwise is perfect.

View attachment 3591315

Cheers

Fender bars suck!!

They reduce clearance and multiply damage, and really don't give any real protection

I do like the idea of a sturdy tube, rolled to suit and built into the lip of the fender and tied into the body
 
Fender bars suck!!

They reduce clearance and multiply damage, and really don't give any real protection

I do like the idea of a sturdy tube, rolled to suit and built into the lip of the fender and tied into the body


Bro, chill man.

I don’t do conventional builds. Do you even know the idea in my head? No you don’t but it will/would be strong enough to roll the truck over on the bars with zero damage to the Cruiser. You Aussies don’t tie them into the frame in mutiple locations, maybe that is my plan?

Smashing up a body that takes this long to build will suck more. 😝

Cheers
 
Bro, chill man.

I don’t do conventional builds. Do you even know the idea in my head? No you don’t but it will/would be strong enough to roll the truck over on the bars with zero damage to the Cruiser. You Aussies don’t tie them into the frame in mutiple locations, maybe that is my plan?

Smashing up a body that takes this long to build will suck more. 😝

Cheers

No stress here.

Just saying the conventional Aussie brush bars are useless, and detrimental to your truck if "used".

I have no doubt you won't do 'conventional'.

Keen to see what you do, so pull your finger out, and get into it! We need pics :lol:
 

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