Pics for D Light Replacement

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George,
Are there white LEDs available that already have a resistor in one leg? I bought some from Radio Shack like this but they were red.

What LED intensity value (or range) should we be looking for?

-B-
 
Yes, the resistor is in series with one leg of the LED (doesn't matter which one) and hidden in the base. i.e. cut one LED leg short and one end of the resistor short and solder together. Then you put a bit of 2 part epoxy or hot melt glue where the bulb was and push the two leads through the exit holes. I figure a bit of adhesive will make the solder joint etc more secure (esp since I installed a TVS, see below) - but possibly overkill.

Let the adhesive set and then bend the legs around the appropriate slots in the base and you are done.

Obviously you have a polarized 'bulb' now, so you have a 50-50 chance of it being in backwards. But, all I did was just plug in the module that contains the shift lights into the harness (no instrument panel) and turned the ignition on and moved the shifter through the range to verify all the bulbs were lighting up.

I used a nominal 560 ohm resistor, 1/8Watt (chosen for small size). That gives close to 20mA through the LED. I also installed a small TVS (5V rate suppression part) across the LED, right at the base of the LED. That provides reverse voltage protection and spike suppression. You get extra bonus points :D to solder that since it is a tiny 0603 sized surface mount part. Digikey stock number 641-1088-1-ND.

Assume 14.4V (while running) - 3.4V (nominal LED Vf) = 11V.
11V/560ohm = 0.019 = 19mA. I know there is a resistor already inline with the D light, but it's likely quite a low value since it was intended to dim the incandescent a bit.

The result is a 'blue' ring since the white/blue tint of the LED through the filter is not the same as the result from a yellowish incandescent. Actually works good since the blue stands out from the other positions.

It isn't as bright as the bulb positions, which is good since you don't want the D glaring all the time.

To replace the other bulbs you would need a brighter LED.

Most LEDs with series resistors built-in are for 5V operation. Also, you need a side emitting LED since the LED is actually at 90 deg to the bezel.

The actual LED I bought was from Digikey (www.digikey.com) and the stock number (you can enter it on their website to pull up the datasheet) is 160-1736-5-ND. You can probably get a 5mm sized one in there - since there is room for it in the housing. Choose a flat top/side emitting one. A 5mm would be quite a bit brighter and probably a good choice for the non-D bulbs.

For the coloured non-D LED positions if you want them brighter, it would also be best to source similar coloured LEDs rather than white. White LEDs are (except for RGB ones) Blue LEDs with a special phosphor that emits a pseudo-white light when hit by the Blue. The pseudo-white is NOT full spectrum, it just looks white to our eyes. So, if you put that pseudo white light through a colour filter (like in the shifter bulb module) you will attenuate the light output a LOT.

I didn't want the D bulb to be too bright and the combination of a 3mm and white LED worked just fine, but heed the above paragraph for the other positions.

cheers,
george.
 
Nice write up...I whipped it out in 20 minutes and it cost me a total of $1.67. D light works again.
 
Does that method apply for 91-94 dashboards as well? What would be the variations?
EDIT: can that kind of light be secured from local NAPA shops or is CDan the man?
 
Sorry to bump and old thread but just used this how-to to fix mine. Sounds like some of you guys have a D light that's white. Mine is green.

Anyway, took about 20 minutes so thanks for the info!
 
superbrightled.com
Awesome thanks. So I got my dash apart today and found I have quite a few dead bulbs. I know the size of the large ones (158) but I can't find He size of the middle size ones (run along bottom of cluster) and the small ones that are the gear indicators. I want to replace them all since I have it apart now. Does anyone know what size the middle and small bulbs are?
 
Awesome thanks. So I got my dash apart today and found I have quite a few dead bulbs. I know the size of the large ones (158) but I can't find He size of the middle size ones (run along bottom of cluster) and the small ones that are the gear indicators. I want to replace them all since I have it apart now. Does anyone know what size the middle and small bulbs are?

Did you find out?
Thanks!
 
This write-up helped me tremendously. Thank you for the old, but still outstanding pics!!!!!! The only add I have is that I found it easier to remove the clear facia from the cluster by carefully using a 180 degree pick to press in the tabs. That allows for plenty of room to remove the connectors from the back and pull the cluster out.

Again, thank you for a wonderful post!
 

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