Pics for D Light Replacement (1 Viewer)

[Brentbba]

Excellent write up, hopefully citadel will see the value and purchase a star to be able to post the rest of the pictures without us loosing what he has posted thus far. I agree this would be good to have in the FAQ. Would also be a great time to do RavenThai's temp guage mod.

Do I see a SoCal maintenance party for the D bulb Mo?

 

[Slomo]

Do I see a SoCal maintenance party for the D bulb Mo?

You read my mind Brent.

 

[panoramic]

Hi,
FWIW: I just performed the 'D' light replacement using these instructions. I did *not* remove the top steering cover. I simple rotated the Speedo Grill and Speedo and slide them to the left or right.

I *needed* to replace the 'D' bulb in a hurry because my ECU kept giving me a P1780 error and lighting the 'Check Engine' light. I am trying to pass Texas vehicle safety inspection so that I can get license plates. Texas will fail my inspection if the check light is on. Just clearing the code was insufficient because the the emission sensor values were cleared also (another test failure)

Thanks for the great write-up. It saved me alot of headaches!

 

[SOCALFJ]

I know im a FNG..... but I'd be up for a meet and greet... my D light was out when i bought my rig last week... let me know if you guys are doing it.

 

[Beowulf]

I *needed* to replace the 'D' bulb in a hurry because my ECU kept giving me a P1780 error and lighting the 'Check Engine' light. I am trying to pass Texas vehicle safety inspection so that I can get license plates. Texas will fail my inspection if the check light is on. Just clearing the code was insufficient because the the emission sensor values were cleared also (another test failure)

Maybe I'm dense but it sure sounds like you think a working "D" light will fix your MIL (aka Check Engine light.) Please tell me I'm missing something. I would check the Park/Neutral Safety Switch.

-B-

 

[panoramic]

Maybe I'm dense but it sure sounds like you think a working "D" light will fix your MIL (aka Check Engine light.) Please tell me I'm missing something. I would check the Park/Neutral Safety Switch.

-B-

Hi,

here is how I understand it. Please correct me if you know otherwise:

I have read the FSM and the FSS (Factory Shop Schematic). Error code 1780 is produced if the vehicle is in motion without power flowing through any of the shift indicator lights. All forward drive lights are eventually terminated to ground, but also sampled by pin 8D of the ECM. If 8D does not sample current after a period of time while the vehicle is motion, this is an error. My Park/Neutral switch is functioning fine.

The only other cause of error 1780 would be multiple gears selected simultaneously via a shorted Park/Neutral switch or an open in the Park/Neutral harness. These would be OBVIOUS as you would see either multiple gears selected or a missing gear (like D).

Side note trivia: there is an extra resistor to dim the 'D' light so it will last longer. None of the other gear indicators have a resistor. The bulb is identical to the other lights in that indicator column.

FWIW: I think the name 'Park/Neutral switch' is a misnomer. It is really a 'gear select switch' because it indicates all possible gear positions. The FSS calls it an "A/T Indicator SW".

I am still trying to log enough miles to test all of this since replacing the 'D' bulb. So far this evening I have logged about 30 miles of start/stop/restart city driving without the error code re-appearing. Prior to the bulb fix, the error would appear within about 10 miles of driving.

Note: I have a 1997 LX-450, but I think the ECM ad ECM firmware logic is identical to FJ-80.

 

[Beowulf]

Please correct me if you know otherwise:

I can tell you from personal experience and the experience of dozens of others here on 'Mud, that a burned-out "D" lamp in the instrument cluster absolutely, positively will not set the MIL lamp. Mine became intermittent about 5 years ago at which time the "dash whack" was first used. The "dash whack" would wake up the D-lamp for a year at a time, eventually failing to respond to agressive "dash whacking" and degenerating into a solid failure for about 2 years now.

There is a Neutral Safety Switch that you should look at. I believe it would more likely be the cause of your MIL.

-B-

 

[sjcruiser]

Having replaced my "D" light last weekend, I have a few tips/corrections that would probably save others a few hassles (precisely the procedures stated in Citadel's post #9 & #10 of this thread - the others are dead on):

. Post#9: You don't actually need to remove the steering covers
. Post#10: Carefully pull the cluster forward after removing the four retaining screws. If you look closely at the pics on the right of post #11, you'll see that there are two openings under the dash above the upper cluster's hooks. Guide the two upper hooks into the openings as you pull the cluster out. Doing this yield enough clearance to flip/rotate the lower cluster forward, revealing the electrical connectors. These connectors then could be safely, easily removed from below. Further rotate of the cluster to un-hook it from the dash and take it out to your comfortable work bench.

Did this while waiting for the oil to drain out on late Fri. night. It took me 45" to complete this but I did spend a good 10" looking for a screw accidentally dropped into the dash opening

Cheers,
Frank.

 

[jditom]

Same thing happened to me once I was hooked. Nice write up. So If you want to pass go, you must pay $20.00 then you can post all of the pics you want. I look at it as a very small donation toward access to such an awesome group.

Teresa

Where are they stored? Or do you just get to attach as many as you want?

 

[97fortieth4me]

Great write-up!!

 

[mot]

Nice!

I should have taken pics of my '90's dash removal procedure when I had it apart to replace most of the bulbs in the instrumental cluster.

Now that I've done it once it's not all that hard, except I hear that you need to be a little careful removing the wide piece that goes all the way across so it wouldn't crack (mine already was).

 

[dwainf]

Great posting...one problem, though.

I was blissfully unaware that the "D" light was supposed to light up. Now, thanks to this post, I'll have to fix it.

I love Saturday afternoon projects!

 

[sjcruiser]

And to those that are skeptical about fixing this light worrying about glaring issue with night drivings, Toyota had thought about this and a resistor is added (only) to this light circuit to reduce brightness. It's quite pleasant at night actually

 

[george_tlc]

Well, my D light finally bit the big one. Anyhow, great instructions, pretty easy to get the instrument cluster out considering this is a relatively modern vehicle.

But, I replaced mine with a reworked LED bulb. I picked up a 3mm side emitting white LED from digikey. A tiny resistor in series with the LED and the whole thing went into the standard bulb base (after pulling out the dead incandescent from the plastic base). Used a little 2 part epoxy inside the base to secure the resistor & LED leads.

Installed just the transmission cluster into the brown connector and keyed the ignition on. Need to buy lotto - the LED bulb was the right way around (LED's are polarized).

The WHITE of the LED makes the D 'ring' a bluish colour now - neat actually. Not too bright - visible without being obnoxious.

Shouldn't blow for a long time

cheers,
george.

 

[Slomo]

Very impressive George. You need to add it to your website.

 

[FirstToy]

George,
make them a kit so we can replace all the dash bulbs w/ LEDs. only have to pull the dash apart once. ever.

 

[LX_TREME]

HDJ 80 JDM LED testing...

I guess new year ' 07 will be available for 80s cluster LED bulb replacement Im in, yea George i dont mind if i have to go in again just couple cut and scratch.. aww its allright... im waiting for it

 

[george_tlc]

Yeah, but I would need the bases of the 'dead' ones, or buy new ones to 'gut'.

Anyway, it's pretty easy to do. Here's a couple of pictures.

First shows the LED & resistor I used and a nearly assembled LED+base and the dead bulb removed from the base.

Second shows the finished LED version, just a matter of bending the leads around and slots in the plastic base. Straight drop in for the original.

Other than some small component soldering, no rocket science here.

cheers,
george.

 

[FirstToy]

George,
where does the resistor go? I see the LED just feeds in and you bend the leads around the plastic but the resistor?

also, what is the specific resistor I need.
thanks G

**oh wait, the resistor is hidden inside the plastic base. I get it.

 

[Dan Skye]

Wow Exellent directions,better than any book!!!
This will help a lot of us
Woody,are you going to link this to the FAQ section?
D