Pick's 'build' thread (1 Viewer)

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1/2 the headlight project completed tonight; will finish the other half tomorrow...

- Used the 3M Headlight Restoration system to polish the headlights
- Install the Morimoto Elite HID Kit System (35W Ballasts H1 5500K Bulbs) for the low beams
- Install Auxbeam 9005 LED hight beams (work with DRL)
- Install H3 HID kit in the fog lights

I polished and installed everything on the driver side so I could get some before/after pics. Will complete the passenger side tomorrow:
headlight.JPG


headlight2.JPG

HID.JPG


Pictures don't do it justice; major improvement!! Looking forward to completing the other side and taking it for a spin...
 
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Weather has been amazing!! More projects checked off the list...

Lighting project complete. All housings are clean/polished and bulbs replaced. Also, got a chance to pull the rear license plate housing off. While in there, I replaced the reverse lights with LED's. Found several broken clips :( I used some JB Weld to epoxy some #10/32 screws in place of the clips and let it cure overnight. Installed the panel back in and it seems to be holding... no more rattling!!

licenseplate.jpg


While I was polishing the headlights, I tried the polishing wheel on the rear view camera. It made a significant difference; the view is much clearer.


I ran out of time to do the fog light switch mod, will get that this week.
 
All finished with the lights (Low Beam swapped to HID; High Beam/DRL swapped to LED; Fog Light swapped to HID; Front running light and reverse lights swapped to LED & all interior bulbs swapped to LED's). I'm just waiting on my hood shocks from Amazon to complete the original list; except the fog light re-wire which is looking to be more time-consuming than originally thought.

This is proving to be a Maintenance Thread instead of a build thread but I want to knock this out before moving on to bumpers and racks...

I've assembled the next list and ordered the parts; Amazon is showing early May delivery but I think it will make it before then...
11214-50011 Toyota 4.7L 2UZ-FE Valve Cover Gasket Driver Side
11213-50031 Toyota 4.7L 2UZ-FE Valve Cover Gasket Passenger Side
11193-50010 Toyota 4.7L 2UZ-FE Valve Cover Spark Plug Tube Seal (8)
TKT-021 Aisin Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
00272-1LLAC-01 Toyota Red Antifreeze (gallon)
90916-03100 Toyota Engine Thermostat with Gasket
96761-24019 Toyota Water Outlet O-Ring
90311-A0001 Genuine Toyota Type-T Crankshaft Oil Seal
6PK2240 Mitsuboshi serpentine belt
166200W101 Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Pulley
166040F010 Idler Pulley
SK20R11 Denso Iridium spark plugs (8)
12157-10010 Differential and Transfer Case Drain Plug Crush Washer set
75W-90 Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Oil (7 quarts)

I have really waffled over swapping all 8 Denso coil packs while I was doing this but have decided to wait. They look easy enough to swap if I get a failure in the future and have read that many have gone ~250+ so I'll try to get a little more life out of them.

Did I miss anything in my list that I should do 'while I'm in there'? I tried to read through all the 100-series FAQ's but certainly could have missed something. Any better suppliers than Amazon for OEM Toyota parts??

maint_list.JPG
 
Great work and documentation! Nice to see another 100 in the area as well. Question for you -- did you just swap in the HID bulbs into your unmodified low beam projectors (I think you did this) or did you use Luke111's bracket and the morimoto projector/HID. A low beam upgrade is on my hit list so just taking stock of options, difficulty, etc. Regardless, how was the process? I've never done much with lights so would be a new experience regardless.
 
Great work and documentation! Nice to see another 100 in the area as well. Question for you -- did you just swap in the HID bulbs into your unmodified low beam projectors (I think you did this) or did you use Luke111's bracket and the morimoto projector/HID. A low beam upgrade is on my hit list so just taking stock of options, difficulty, etc. Regardless, how was the process? I've never done much with lights so would be a new experience regardless.
Thanks!!
I did install the Morimoto HID into the factory projector. I did the same with the fog light as well.

Pro - it was VERY easy to do and only $150
Con - it's not a perfect cut-off and I do get a bit of spurious light in the 'on-coming driver' direction

I'd love to swap in the Morimoto projector using Luke's bracket but had two reservations:
1. My lenses are probably only a couple of years away from needing replacement so I didn't want to waste time/effort on my stock lens
2. New lens with the bracket installed by Luke was in the $1500-$1700 range (maybe that includes the HID??). I LOVE the light output but wasn't sure I loved it that much

You're welcome to check-out the results in-person anytime. Maybe we can meet at a trail, ride and review the lights at dusk??? They are good but the AuxBeam highbeam is PHENOMINAL!! I was really shocked by it. I thought the HID's would been the better upgrade but I'm really impressed with the AuxBeam!

I don't drive much so I probably haven't put 25 miles on it in the last few weeks since I've done the mod (and those were just to get out of the house). If I see the low beams are bothering other drivers, I will revert back or consider a proper projector. The light is really more of a small pair of circles in the trees on the left side of the road (you can faintly see it in my side-by-side comparison with the lights shining on the garage door. I don't think it is bothering others but have very limited testing.
 
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Thanks!!
I did install the Morimoto HID into the factory projector. I did the same with the fog light as well.

Pro - it was VERY easy to do and only $150
Con - it's not a perfect cut-off and I do get a bit of spurious light in the 'on-coming driver' direction

I'd love to swap in the Morimoto projector using Luke's bracket but had two reservations:
1. My lenses are probably only a couple of years away from needing replacement so I didn't want to waste time/effort on my stock lens
2. New lens with the bracket installed by Luke was in the $1500-$1700 range (maybe that includes the HID??). I LOVE the light output but wasn't sure I loved it that much

You're welcome to check-out the results in-person anytime. Maybe we can meet at a trail, ride and review the lights at dusk??? They are good but the AuxBeam highbeam is PHENOMINAL!! I was really shocked by it. I thought the HID's would been the better upgrade but I'm really impressed with the AuxBeam!

I don't drive much so I probably haven't put 25 miles on it in the last few weeks since I've done the mod (and those were just to get out of the house). If I see the low beams are bothering other drivers, I will revert back or consider a proper projector. The light is really more of a small pair of circles in the trees on the left side of the road (you can faintly see it in my side-by-side comparison with the lights shining on the garage door. I don't think it is bothering others but have very limited testing.

Thanks! Super helpful. I'd be game to meet and do a comparison when we are allowed again. Hell we could aim our trucks at each other and compare how bad (or not bad) it is for oncoming traffic (or at least oncoming bigger trucks). I've got the glass lenses since I'm in an '01 so they seem OK. Just a bit intimidated by the retrofit with Luke's system.

Out of curiosity, which Auxbeam LED did you go with? I saw several when I searched the site and that may be a nice easy starting point for me.
 
While crawling under the LX to confirm the front crankshaft seal weep; I noticed the CV boots have some dry rot. So... I ordered two re-boot kits
Toyota CV Boot KIT: 04427-60120

Then I remembered the Heater T's. Bought the metal ones on Amazon (and some hose clamps) based on @Trollhole 's recommendation in the Amazon review section:
We use these for uzj100's or 100 series toyota Land Cruisers or the lx470 heater t's. Good replacement for the plastic ones. Though if you change the plastic ones every 90k with the timing belt they work just fine.
Thanks!! there were so many opinions over OEM/brass/metal/SS

And (hopefully) finally I saw a little tire rub on the UCA. I've got a set of 1.25" SpiderTrax wheel spacers on the way but not sure I'm going to like them; they may be in the for sale section shortly
 
Thanks! Super helpful. I'd be game to meet and do a comparison when we are allowed again. Hell we could aim our trucks at each other and compare how bad (or not bad) it is for oncoming traffic (or at least oncoming bigger trucks). I've got the glass lenses since I'm in an '01 so they seem OK. Just a bit intimidated by the retrofit with Luke's system.

Out of curiosity, which Auxbeam LED did you go with? I saw several when I searched the site and that may be a nice easy starting point for me.
Auxbeam F16
They are the only ones I have seen that (actually) work with DRL. I tried the first one and it stayed on highbeam but when I swapped the 2nd one in it started working
 
Not today Amazon...

Ordered what I thought was an OEM thermostat... return process already in progress
thermostat.jpg



On a brighter note, most all of my parts are here :cool:
I cancelled a couple things and will just buy them local since they still haven't shipped (ordered 4/14)
Timing belt kit, front crank seal, serpentine belt (w/ tensioner & idler) valve cover gaskets, spark plugs, heater tees, CV Boots & crush washers for diff drain/fill

maint_parts.jpg



Also picked-up some Spidertrax wheel spacers to see if they help with the slight rub on the UCA. Another quarantine project on deck...
 
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Hoping someone can chime in and help/confirm... In researching my upcoming timing belt/water pump/heater tee replacement, I found that there are two types of Toyota coolant:
Long-Life (LL) AKA "Red"
Super Long Life (SLL) AKA "Pink"

From what I've read:
- Red was used in pre-2004 & 2004+ is SLL/Pink
- Never mix Red and Pink
- Pink can be used in Red systems (after flushing??) but Red can NOT be used in Pink systems
- Do NOT use FIPG 102 or 103 for any Pink Coolant sealing
- SLL (pink) can only be used with a special FIPG part no: 08826-00100 seal packing 1282B

Did I miss anything? I'm safe to use SLL in my '06? Does it need to be this difficult?!?
 
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A friend of mine has an '03 Land Cruiser and he needed a timing belt as well. We decided to do them together and started on his Friday night. We finished his this morning and started mine. Timing belt tensioner bearing was REALLY hard to get out and noticed aluminum on the bolt threads when I inspected the bolt. I hoped it would be OK but it was very evident going back in that it wasn't going to torque... stripped. My buddy had a heli-coil set; I REALLY didn't want to do it; just thought it wasn't right.
Oil pump on order :( should be here May 5 :( :(

The oil pump has been out before; there is a whitish sealant all the way around it. That may have been my leak instead of the front main crankshaft seal?? It probably needed to come out anyway. Better done right than in a hurry I guess...
15100-50040 oil pump.jpg
 
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Seeing this from your other post. Funny that you have a thread in the 100 section, a thread here, and posted this question in the twt thread, lol.

If the Helicoil works out (it should) then return the oil pump.
 
Seeing this from your other post. Funny that you have a thread in the 100 section, a thread here, and posted this question in the twt thread, lol.

If the Helicoil works out (it should) then return the oil pump.
Sorry for the duplication; just hadn't received any feedback and was curious on the helicoil as a solution. I can definitely return the oil pump (Amazon Prime) just wanted it on the way in case that was ultimately the solution.

THANK YOU for the reply... I owe you a beverage of your choice!!
 
Forgive my ignorance, but why does oil pump replacement require pulling the motor here?
 
Two reasons as I understand it:
1. The oil pan bolts into the bottom of the oil pump so pulling the pump requires re-sealing the pan
2. The oil pick-up is attached to the oil pump and pulling the whole assembly requires pulling the pan

I'm a 2UZ-FE newb but looking at the FSM and reading online states the pan has to come off
 
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Thanks to all who contributed on my multiple thread oil pump questions. Found a M10-1.25 Heli-coil set last night ($60 :oops: - thanks O'Reilly) and got it installed. It went really well... the bolt threaded in straight, no wobble and torqued to 25 ft.lbs. easily. I'm confident it would have gone higher but the FSM said 25, no need to go any further...

Finished all the reassembly last night, just waiting for the FIPG to cure and will fill with coolant tonight and fire it up.

timing belt torque.JPG


timing belt install.jpg
 
Filled with coolant last night and fired it up. It was running rough and the dash was lit up like a Christmas tree... Plugged in the scan tool and quickly determined that I forgot to plug in two of the coil packs after replacing the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets. :doh: Snapped the connectors on and SUCCESS!! So 196,088...

Timing Belt/Water Pump kit complete
Crankshaft seal replaced
New Thermostat w/ 3 gallons of Toyota SLL coolant
Valve Cover Gaskets replaced
Spark Plugs replaced
New Serpentine Belt with new tensioner and idler pulley
Heater Tee's replaced
And another oil change (drained oil to get behind the oil filter housing)

I have the OEM CV Boot Kits but will likely hold off on those until its time for brakes. I'm thinking I might as well replace the rotors, pads and wheel bearings when I pull the axles. I have the gear oil and crush washers for the diff / transfer case oil change that I'll do at the same time. But until then, I'm ready to use this thing to haul my bike!!
bikerack.jpg
 
I hope no one is reading this... it can't be entertaining

Some unplanned maintenance this weekend. I have been needing a new grease gun for our golf cart "squeaky" so I've searched a few online. I watch Landcruiser videos from time-to-time and what do you know, the Google put them together and had this in my "Recommended" YouTube list:

Ending up getting the $12 Harbor Freight one and some Valvoline Synthetic Grease

I didn't have much of a "clunk" from P > D so the change wasn't very noticeable but it did take quite a few pumps to get grease to pass the seal on the slip-joint as noted in the video. Anyway, just wanted to note the work to keep track of it here. Not very "Overland" but hopefully keeps my truck together long enough until I get some bumpers and racks
 
I entertain very easily. Carry on.
 
I entertain easily as well... SUPER excited about reading this!! Found this online and wanted to add it to my toolbox. I've mentioned a few times that I wanted to do the fog light mod but the two links I posted earlier did not apply to the '06. I'm hopeful to find the wires without having to pull the entire fusebox out.

EWD.jpg
 

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