PHH attempt.....

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MoJ said:
Removing just the throttle body is pretty easy/straightforward and that will give you access to the phh neighbor (second hose). As far as your phh - either replace the hose and the pipe or do the phh workaround which eliminates the pipe and instead uses a length of hose to bypass the pipe. Either method is fine and reliable.
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If you are referring to the "water bypass #1 hose" it's not hard to do even without taking off the throttle body.

You can reach everything from underneath. Line up the clamps on the hose and push it on. I've done a write-up on procedure someplace on here. It took me 15 minutes.

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BILT4ME said:
If you are referring to the "water bypass #1 hose" it's not hard to do even without taking off the throttle body.

You can reach everything from underneath. Line up the clamps on the hose and push it on. I've done a write-up on procedure someplace on here. It took me 15 minutes.

View attachment 2697396
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Now that you mention it, I think I bought that from Wits End. Ordered some Corbin clamps from BelMetric today for transmission cooler hoses, so should be covered there with the bypass hose.
 
On the bypass #1 hose:
Here's a hint....... Put the factory clamp on the new factory hose FIRST, then spit inside the hose for lubrication, then push it on until it bottoms against the block. You can do it blind.

The FACTORY hose has a white mark on it to align the ears if the factory clamp before you install it.

Makes it very simple and quick!
 
BILT4ME said:
On the bypass #1 hose:
Here's a hint....... Put the factory clamp on the new factory hose FIRST, then spit inside the hose for lubrication, then push it on until it bottoms against the block. You can do it blind.

The FACTORY hose has a white mark on it to align the ears if the factory clamp before you install it.

Makes it very simple and quick!
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SO THAT"S what the white marks are for, good to know......
 
So this what I'm dealing with..., new radiator install, waiting on small parts to finish up. Everything that I've worked on so far is all anti-seize/Kroiled up so disassembly won't be hard if I have to pull the TB/upper manifold.
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Just as a reminder - anti-seize changes the torque values.

Since I am beyond paranoid about assembly and disassembly (having done it several times), I would recommend blue or purple thread locker instead. Still prevents corrosion. I especially use it when replacing factory bolts with stainless.
 
zapatius said:
Just as a reminder - anti-seize changes the torque values.

Since I am beyond paranoid about assembly and disassembly (having done it several times), I would recommend blue or purple thread locker instead. Still prevents corrosion. I especially use it when replacing factory bolts with stainless.
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Yes, duly noted. I was aware of that. did not know about Loc-Tite though.
 
79F250 said:
Yes, duly noted. I was aware of that. did not know about Loc-Tite though.
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And, as a fellow rust survivor - good for you for saving one!
 
zapatius said:
And, as a fellow rust survivor - good for you for saving one!
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I'm still surviving rust..... "Hi, my name is Shane, I have a 24 year old Land Cruiser from the northeast..........." It was a decent deal at the time, $3600 with 251K on it. And that was right before prices took off!
 
Njck22 said:
Make it easier on yourself and do the PHH extension over the brake booster. I wouldn't trust that rusty PHH tube.
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I do have a replacement heater valve waiting in the wings. As i research the PHH from the top end by removing the TB, that seems like a better approach.
 
For me I found going in through the wheel well and removing the splash guard flaps gave the best access. Cutting off the clamps then slitting the hose to peel it off is how I did it. I loosened the bolt for the metal tube and removed the hose from the upper end so that it would pivot a little which was just enough to get the new hose in place. I just replaced it again for the hell of it since it was two years ago and I had the intake/head off for head gasket replacement anyway.
 
cvenom96 said:
For me I found going in through the wheel well and removing the splash guard flaps gave the best access. Cutting off the clamps then slitting the hose to peel it off is how I did it. I loosened the bolt for the metal tube and removed the hose from the upper end so that it would pivot a little which was just enough to get the new hose in place. I just replaced it again for the hell of it since it was two years ago and I had the intake/head off for head gasket replacement anyway.
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Just make sure you have your tetanus shots before you start! :rofl:
 
79F250 said:
I'm still surviving rust..... "Hi, my name is Shane, I have a 24 year old Land Cruiser from the northeast..........." It was a decent deal at the time, $3600 with 251K on it. And that was right before prices took off!
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Dude, that's a great deal! So long as the rust isn't as bad as that PHH tube looks, you've got a great deal of a rig on your hands. I'd also get the workaround PHH tube. I bought it but never used it, since I had just enough patience to get the OEM method repaired and that patience barely made it! 😝. Saving that PHH workaround for another rainy day or road trip....just in case. LOL

Additionally, be careful when working around the PHH area or even during oil changes, (speaking from experience on my 93' 😞) so that you don't pull or damage the wires on the knock sensor cables/connectors or temp cable/connectors as well.
 
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