LX450 120,000 miles. Antifreeze under rear of engine. I'm suspecting the pesky heater hose. I've spent the last 2 hours researching how to fix this problem on this site and others. I'm looking for final instructions that have all the bits and pieces from the guys that have done this job. If anyone has had good results with certain instructions please let me know where to find them. I'm a pretty good mechanic but have large hands and arms. Also would like to know what hose and clamps are the easiest to install. Don't jump on me for bringing up a tired subject because I've spent time doing my research but want to make sure I can do this job. If there is anyone in the Boise area that would like to tackle this job I will pay. Thanks T
Pesky heater hose instructions
- Thread starter bigtbasser
- Start date
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I've done the job and in the Boise area. I could give you some tips if you'd like. Pm me.
Maybe this
Clamps-
Constant torque clamps tightened with 8mm wratchet wrench
I did the bypass instead of reconnecting to the factory hard pipe
Opinions on this-
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/phh-replacement-vs-by-pass-my-thoughts.543371/
Parts-
http://www.1fzfephh.com/
I used Gates green stripe hose, same as Napa gold stripe, 5/8" ID and constant torque clamps
Clamps-
Constant torque clamps tightened with 8mm wratchet wrench
I did the bypass instead of reconnecting to the factory hard pipe
Opinions on this-
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/phh-replacement-vs-by-pass-my-thoughts.543371/
Parts-
http://www.1fzfephh.com/
I used Gates green stripe hose, same as Napa gold stripe, 5/8" ID and constant torque clamps
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Save your self some trouble and start by removing the 90 degree heater hose that goes from the metal tube at the drivers side rear of the block into the heater control valve. Then unbolt the top bolt holding that same metal tube to the manifold. There is another bolt down lower that is almost impossible to get a tool onto, but you don't really need it. You can wiggle the metal tube back and forth for a few mins to break that second bolt tab off the tube. Then get back under the drivers side wheel well and pull the three liners off with your bare hands. You can probablr get enough clearance by just pulling the rear most liner, but i like to give myself as much room as possible. Next it to remove the transmission dipstick and tube, this is just a couple of bolts, but will save you a lot if time and frustration. Now you have clear access to the phh. Tear off the block side hose clamp of the phh and then pull the phh along with the metal tube out as one unit. You can then replace the phh on the tube outside of the vehicle and then reinstall in the reverse order. I did it this way a few weeks back, it took me 1 hr 10 mins total.
Last edited:
gofast
SILVER Star
Wish I had the guts to break off the tab it would have been a lot easier.
I just did this job today today. PPH is really pesky. Use Vaseline or body chafe inside the hose, outside of the pipe and block nipple. Don't be shy with the lube
Any place that sells hose will have appropriate silicon hose and clamps - you cannot use regular hose clamps with silicon. I cut off the rear nipple clamp with a dremel wheel. Make sure you don't cut into the hose too deeply or you will score the nipple or pipe.
My PPH looked fine but pulled/fell apart easily. I've got 158k on the truck but it wasn't leaking
Nice feeling to have a new pump, thermostat and hoses.
I just did this job today today. PPH is really pesky. Use Vaseline or body chafe inside the hose, outside of the pipe and block nipple. Don't be shy with the lube
Any place that sells hose will have appropriate silicon hose and clamps - you cannot use regular hose clamps with silicon. I cut off the rear nipple clamp with a dremel wheel. Make sure you don't cut into the hose too deeply or you will score the nipple or pipe.
My PPH looked fine but pulled/fell apart easily. I've got 158k on the truck but it wasn't leaking
Nice feeling to have a new pump, thermostat and hoses.
Must haves :
12mm gearwrench with the flex head. ( takes care of the water pipe bolts behind the VC )
dremel w a cutoff wheel and the long flex head ( cutting the hose off the block nipple )
hose clamp cable pliers ( you may get lucky and be able to pop the factory clamps with these, if not they are helpful for putting the new clamp on if that is the style you choose )
Good luck, it really is as bad as people make it out to be. The first one is the worst then they get better.
12mm gearwrench with the flex head. ( takes care of the water pipe bolts behind the VC )
dremel w a cutoff wheel and the long flex head ( cutting the hose off the block nipple )
hose clamp cable pliers ( you may get lucky and be able to pop the factory clamps with these, if not they are helpful for putting the new clamp on if that is the style you choose )
Good luck, it really is as bad as people make it out to be. The first one is the worst then they get better.
- Thread starter
- #7
I'm going to attempt the repair today. I'll let you know how I make out. I think I'll go with breaking the bracket off of the steel tube. If not for this site I wouldn't even know that the hose even existed. Thanks a lot, T
WARNING !!!!! Whatever you do don't wiggle that pipe back and forth too much ! There is a liquid AC line running along the back of the firewall. You will rub a hole in it and then your AC won't work. If you think the PHH is bad, well, the liquid AC line is worse.
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
You can also use a long chisel or flat punch and hammer to knock through the tab. I found that a few good whacks and a bit of wiggling was all that was needed to free that pipe up.
- Thread starter
- #10
After 4 hours the job is complete, well I still have to put the tire back on but I'm waiting for my son to do it. I'm out of gas. The guy who wrote about doing this fix on the side of the road is a superman. I used the wiggle method and broke off the bracket. I wasn't getting anywhere until I cut the hose in two to give me more action. I would say that a younger man could do this in 2 to 3 hours, I spent a lot of time in a chair resting and cussing. One suggestion that I agree with is have a buddy helping you. My steel tube was putting downward pressure on the hose so I drilled out the top bracket a little. Now it fits without any pressure which I feel might have cause the leak to start. I'm going to do the antifreeze flush and refill with the red Toyota stuff. Thanks to everyone who took time to write about this project. Hopefully everything will work and I didn't damage any wiring in the process. T
crap, looks like the site that sells the silicone with clamps expired 
Pretty sure this is the same guy. He is here on 'mud. Thought I remember him making a change to his website or something. Anyway:crap, looks like the site that sells the silicone with clamps expired
http://www.phhkit.com/
Whatever you do, don't hurry!! I did mine (first time) in my driveway. Whenever I got PO'd at something that didn't come off, etc., I'd stop, get a beer, then come back to it. Worked fine. It's not a race. I left the metal pipe on, but took off the dip stick which helped a lot. Since then it's been done twice more.
Ned
Ned
ElPolloBlanco
SILVER Star
I'd be drunk half the time I worked on the truck if I did this.
Here is a link to a page of my rebuild.
If it helps I took pictures of that side of the engine will it was out on the stand so I could get a point of reference for occasions were I might need an unobscured view.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/25...here-my-complete-engine-rebuild.800332/page-3
If it helps I took pictures of that side of the engine will it was out on the stand so I could get a point of reference for occasions were I might need an unobscured view.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/25...here-my-complete-engine-rebuild.800332/page-3
find a friend with long skinny arms and maybe a double jointed elbow.... 
I am dreading doing this, but I am f'd w/o doing it. crappy dilema to be in.
Thank you
WHEW, Thanks for the link
this job is a PITA but no way I'd want it to fail and have to do it on the side of the road. I ended up buying a 10' length of silicone hose off ebay for $30 and redid every hose. I deleted the hard pipe going to the PHH and also yanked out the rear heater while I was at it.
