Pertronix Flame Thrower Coil (1 Viewer)

[David70FJ40]

Anyone have any experience with one? I believe my coil has died and I was considering one of these.

Thanks in advance.

 

[southern jeeper]

I've got one along with kit for the distributor. It seems to work well but I'm having carb issues so I can't really go in to detail.

 

[David70FJ40]

I believe you were having rough idling and high idling issues. Did you ever find the problem? Mine was a broken PCV valve. Installed a new one and it runs great.

The coil has died, top shows cracks so I guess it is shorted out, and will not start the 40 so I was wondering about a higher voltage coil to go along with the electronic pick-up I had installed last year.

 

[southern jeeper]

Yeah it was a combination of timing and carb issues. I got the timing corrected and that just left the carb but I just ordered a rebuilt carb so hopefully I'll have everything dialed in soon. Overall I would recommend the flame thrower coil I run one in my Land Rover along with the distrubor kit and have zero problems with it.

 

[mrboatman]

I installed one a few months ago. I also have the electronic pick up in the distributor. It all seems to be working well. I only ran it for about a week before leaving town for the summer but for the short time it seems like a good combo
JP

 

[oregon fj]

I had one for less than a year in a Datsun 240Z before it failed totally. Won't trust one again. Replaced it with a Crane PS20, worked great for the remaining years I had that car.

 

[Borrego]

I've had one in my '71 with the electronic pick up in the distributor, along with a trollhole carb. install was easy. I've ran this for about 3 years. I love it. I never have to mess with anything, just get in and go. I've heard I should get a vacuum advanced dizzy, instead of the stock retard. LOL. But everything seems to work fine for me.

 

[brian]

The coil has died, top shows cracks so I guess it is shorted out, and will not start the 40 so I was wondering about a higher voltage coil to go along with the electronic pick-up I had installed last year.

Total waste of money. Just go with a replacement OEM.
I have pertronix in mine, and I've been playing with different setups till I got what looked right to me....yeap looked right.
Started off this trip with an aftermarket non USA/ early distributor w/pertronix and the flame thrower coil.
Moved to an old used OEM 1977 distributor w/pertronix and the "hot" coil.
After some reading, replaced the hot coil with an old used OEM coil from the same 77 2f that donated the dissy.
Absolutely no noticeable change between the two coils...nothing...so no noticeable difference between a brand new "hot" coil and a 40odd year old, used coil.

 

[Wetlandman]

I installed Pertronix coil (40511) and ignitor (1665A; replaced points). Ignitor stopped working. Put points back in and is working well w the Pertronix coil. Pertronix CS was nice and sent me a long list of steps to trouble shoot.

 

[74fj40]

I ran pertronix flamethrower coil and distributor drop in for 8 years and now running the same setup with a new coil with no problems.

Also just because the oem coil works with pertronix distributor drop in they are not interchangeable. The flamethrower coil for a 6 cylinder is 3.0 ohms and the oem coil is 1.2 or 1.5. You will burn up the electronics eventually.

 

[David70FJ40]

I ran pertronix flamethrower coil and distributor drop in for 8 years and now running the same setup with a new coil with no problems.

Also just because the oem coil works with pertronix distributor drop in they are not interchangeable. The flamethrower coil for a 6 cylinder is 3.0 ohms and the oem coil is 1.2 or 1.5. You will burn up the electronics eventually.

Good info. Just checked the Pertronix site and the 40011 is listed at 1.5 ohms. This is the same model SOR sells as a replacement.

 

[brian]

You will burn up the electronics eventually.

No not likely.
There are plenty of people running oe coils with pertronix modules.

 

[Steamer]

You didn’t mention which Pertronix module you have. The 1665A (black) or the 91665A (red). Pertronix recommends a different coil for each.

The red one called Ignitor II has the built-in overload protection. Suppose to protect the module from damage if you forget and leave the ignition on for a long period and your rotor happens to be in the right position. I can’t be sure, but I really believe it was a failure of this protection as the cause of my three dead 91665A (red) units that I experienced. The older 1665A (black) never failed in over a decade.

I ran the regular Flamethrower coil with the 1665A and used a ballast resistor as per their instruction.

I ran the Flamethrower II with the three 91665A units without a resistor as per their instructions.

When I installed the third 91665A I also replaced the Flamethrower II as a precaution.

I don’t know if it matches your unit or if it’s worth the shipping cost to ya but your welcome to the coil. I can only find one now but it’s the newer of the two and purchased 2 years ago but had little use.

I’ve since gone to a DUI.

 

[DougAustinTx]

This whole discussion about the coils seems to be avoiding the fact that NONE of the coils will work to max efficiency if the power to the coil is having to make the full round-trip from the battery to the ignition switch, then back to the coil. That's the way the system was designed, but it creates a significant loss of efficiency in the resulting spark. If you want a HOT spark, any of the coils (including OEM) are capable of putting out a 1" spark if given the right volts and amps. On my vehicles that need a hot fat spark, I use the ignition circuit solely to trip a relay when the key is turned on, then I make a heavy #12 ga wire straight from the battery through the relay contacts, then to the coil (still using #12 for that run as well. Keep all wiring as short as possible. So much discussion and effort is expended on things like Pertronix modules, ignitors, or other electronic additions, but the truth is that all those devices that take the place of the points are just that, a different way to momentarily make and break a circuit by grounding. In and of themselves, they don't make any difference on the quality of the actual spark. ( I realize that spark can be tailored somewhat by use of modules like those sold by MSD, but we aren't trying to multi-trigger etc spark in our 2F tractor engines.) The method I mentioned above will give you way more spark than the oem design and it allows you to open your spark gap to .60 or more.

 

[David70FJ40]

Outstanding reply. Makes a lot of sense and one I will try in the very near future. Thanks!