Pertronix 1662ls no spark (1 Viewer)

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Good plan to have a working spare system for 50 years old equipment you can't just go buy at the local store.
Nice that they were able to help you sort it out. See, I warned you new parts are always good parts.
 
Good plan to have a working spare system for 50 years old equipment you can't just go buy at the local store.
Nice that they were able to help you sort it out. See, I warned you new parts are always good parts.
It was a good warning escpecially these days.
 
Last test shows I have a bad pertronix module. The test is a bench test that should show the unit drop the voltage as the lobe passes the sensor. My module reads 12.34V then only drops to 4.24. According to pertronix the voltage needs to drop to below 1.5V in order to fire the coil. So I have ordered a new pertronix igniter II and a .6ohm coil. The igniter II wont arrive until Jan 18th so now I wait. In the mean time I am looking for someone to test and rebuild my original 1976 ignitor. I want to have the old system as a back up. I have the original points distributor as well and the points from the new city racer distributor. Hopefully soon I will be back on the road with a couple back up options. If you know someone that test the old semi electronic units please let me know. I posted a note with @Engineer8000 to see if he could help me.
Russ fixed mine, hopefully your problem is the same and he can source the caps. We need to put him on designing and building a new, replacement, board that is functionally equivalent, and that uses parts we can actually get.
 
Russ fixed mine, hopefully your problem is the same and he can source the caps. We need to put him on designing and building a new, replacement, board that is functionally equivalent, and that uses parts we can actually get.
Do you remember what failed on yours? It sounds like he does not repair them anymore. He is going to look for a manual to help me troubleshooot.
 
The two liquid caps. The large one is a ND TP5022, the small one is a Sanyo B509N. IMO, there is no point in troubleshooting, if the board looks like it's in good shape; it's the caps. I went through the exercise; it was a frustrating waste of time.

Give me a few and I'll get you the numbers of the parts he installed. The OEM aren't available anymore.
 
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Sorry, my memory failed me. The numbers I gave you were for the transistors, not the caps.

The TP5022 was replaced with a SGS BUW25; the B509N was OK. The caps are marked EQC01-170; Russ will know what that means, I don't. ( I got past circuits by the grace of God, not by my personal acumen )

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Capacitors.jpg
 
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If you really want to know (more than I need to know):
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You have to love alldata
 
That schematic has me confused about the wire with the green connector. I have never figured out what it goes to but the schematic shows the black with white stripe wire going from the ignition switch to the starter. I have attached a picture of my original wiring that shows it landed on the POS side of the coil. The schematic does confirm all white with black wires go to ground. I want this electronic conversion to work but if all else fails I will send the original igniter to be rebuilt and put the points back in.

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Here are 1976 USA-SPEC. Stock Set-Up tech pics below ,


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Below is @Ackcruisers Passion for all things 89620-60010 .....:cool: :wrench: :wrench: :wrench:


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@7677fj40s did you make any progress on a fix?
 
@7677fj40s did you make any progress on a fix?
@Malleus first thanks for all the information. With all the holiday cheer I have not been able to do much and I am waiting on parts to arrive. I am still trying to make the pentronix thing work with the igniter II. I will also try to fix my original igniter as a back up now that you have given me the part numbers. The pentronix part wont arrive until Jan 18th. I will be sure to post success or failure.
 
Update to all that assisted in my little project. I received the pertronix igniter II today and got it installed. The old girl fired up and with a little timing adjustment is back on the road. Running pretty smooth so we will see how it does over the upcoming weeks. Thanks again to all that replied! This page makes things like this fun and achievable for someone like me that is at best a shade tree guy trying to save money and learn. Now that is finished I will start on the next project of changing out the transfer case seals and fixing the parking break.
 
Update to all that assisted in my little project. fixing the parking break.
i forget who does it, but there is a vendor on here that modifies the rear housing to to take two oem seals .....look in to that.
 
I think its that orange george guy. Be sure and ask early in your project so you can send yours in and get it back without hold ups. I think there is also a speedi sleeve solution to the leaking e brake drum. I need to do my front axles and the e brake plus the rear main engine seal. Tranny/transfer loop is next.
 
I went through a pertronix nightmare on my old boat years ago. Is yours an igniter 1 or igniter 2. The igniter 1 is know to fry if ignition left on ,they supposedly fixed this issue with the igniter 2. I had my first pertronix. Dead out of the box pertronix warrantied it asap. Then a month later issues came up left me dead in the water needed tow back ,it was a bad brand new flamethrower epoxy coil maybe used 4 hours . I tossed it out and put back in the original oil filled 30 year old coil also adding back in the ballast resistor to lower voltage to coil and it fired right up. Two bad flamethrowers in a month igniter and coil. I don’t recommend flame thrower coils cheap crap. Try your old coil and see what happens. Also these pertronix need there 12 volts anything dropping below 10v they won’t work either. After I got mine all sorted the pertronix has been running flawlessly for 12 years. Also I think if I remember correctly the distributor body needs a good ground. Check the clamp is clean that holds the distributor tight. In my situation I had corrosion and dissy ground from the body was bad also.
I know nothing about the crusier as I run HEI small block. But the pertronix was pretty finicky to get working.
Needs good voltage and good coil. Swap your coil. My flamethrower coil tests fine on my ohm meter but when used was junk the faulty coil had me stumped for a few hours as I was thinking it was fine. I still carry a spare igniter 2 a spare NAPA oil filled coil and my points in my boat to this day. I need no drama. Haha I’m sure you will figure it out. Cheers.
Carry an extra pertronix too. Never had to use it. 5 years. Fj40. Stick dissy and Bosch coil
 
Carry an extra pertronix too. Never had to use it. 5 years. Fj40. Stick dissy and Bosch coil
I was going to purchase another when I have a few extra bucks. It would be the quickest swap out. I will also have the old points dizzy once I get the original igniter repaired. I have this need to purchase as many spare parts as I can as it feels like the good stuff will be very hard to get.
 
I think its that orange george guy. Be sure and ask early in your project so you can send yours in and get it back without hold ups. I think there is also a speedi sleeve solution to the leaking e brake drum. I need to do my front axles and the e brake plus the rear main engine seal. Tranny/transfer loop is next.
You mean @orangefj45 ? That's Georg at Valley Hybrids in CA.
 
You're welcome Orange George guy...
 
You mean @orangefj45 ? That's Georg at Valley Hybrids in CA.
Yup that’s us!

We have the dual-seal rear ectrr we idiom housing kits in stock along with trans and Tcase rebuild kits, e-brake shoes, clutch kits and hydraulics ……

Happy to help!

Georg @ Valley Hybrids
Shop 209-475-8808
Sales@valleyhybrids.com
 
Since I've already highjacked this thread,

Georg, you're on my list to call Monday. I need to discuss A442F Nomad valve bodies with you. (note to self)
 

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