Pertronix 1662ls no spark (1 Viewer)

[7677fj40s]

That schematic has me confused about the wire with the green connector. I have never figured out what it goes to but the schematic shows the black with white stripe wire going from the ignition switch to the starter. I have attached a picture of my original wiring that shows it landed on the POS side of the coil. The schematic does confirm all white with black wires go to ground. I want this electronic conversion to work but if all else fails I will send the original igniter to be rebuilt and put the points back in.

 

[7677fj40s]

That schematic has me confused about the wire with the green connector. I have never figured out what it goes to but the schematic shows the black with white stripe wire going from the ignition switch to the starter. I have attached a picture of my original wiring that shows it landed on the POS side of the coil. The schematic does confirm all white with black wires go to ground. I want this electronic conversion to work but if all else fails I will send the original igniter to be rebuilt and put the points back in.

View attachment 3783583

In a picture at the beginning of the thread you can see my distributor and starter. On the starter you can see a larger gauge black wire with white stripe that I assume comes from the ignition switch. I am not sure what this smaller black wire with a white strip goes to but like I said it is in the picture above tied to the POS side of the coil.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I think those connections/connectors above could use some cleaning of the corrosion. Wire brush, maybe some 600 sand paper, I like the NAPA battery terminal spray to help keep corrosion at bay. In the Army I used axle grease on the battery terminals, it worked but was a PIA to keep clean.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRC095046

 

[DeskJock]

In a picture at the beginning of the thread you can see my distributor and starter. On the starter you can see a larger gauge black wire with white stripe that I assume comes from the ignition switch. I am not sure what this smaller black wire with a white strip goes to but like I said it is in the picture above tied to the POS side of the coil.

I believe the smaller black and white is the positive side of the coil circuit that bypasses the load resistor during startup to get a hotter spark, once the engine starts - only power supply to the coil is thru the load resistor.

 

[7677fj40s]

I think those connections/connectors above could use some cleaning of the corrosion. Wire brush, maybe some 600 sand paper, I like the NAPA battery terminal spray to help keep corrosion at bay. In the Army I used axle grease on the battery terminals, it worked but was a PIA to keep clean.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRC095046

I agree and I sanded down the back side of the nut and terminal thinking it might be the original issue.

 

[7677fj40s]

I believe the smaller black and white is the positive side of the coil circuit that bypasses the load resistor during startup to get a hotter spark, once the engine starts - only power supply to the coil is thru the load resistor.

So you believe it is in the correct position?

 

[Grayscale]

That schematic has me confused about the wire with the green connector. I have never figured out what it goes to but the schematic shows the black with white stripe wire going from the ignition switch to the starter. I have attached a picture of my original wiring that shows it landed on the POS side of the coil. The schematic does confirm all white with black wires go to ground.

View attachment 3783583

On my '75 USA FJ40, there are four harness wires just like your '76. These are the leads on that branch of the factory harness:
Red = igniter to distributor points.
(Fat) Black/Yellow = ignition switch 'ON'-position to external resister on top of the coil.
(Skinny) Black/Yellow = starter-solenoid to positive terminal of coil
And, a White/Black from harness ground to fender (ground)

Then there is a wire from the resister on top of the coil, opposite of the (fat) Black/Yellow terminal; it connects to the positive side of the coil.
Also, the 'radio kit' wire, the one withe the bullet connector, which is hooked up to nothing, but it is supposed to go to the capacitor for audio fidelity, from what Mudders tell me.

Your photo before the Petronix conversion suggests that the resistor terminal with the fat Black/Yellow was also tied to chassis/fender ground via the capacitor?

 

[7677fj40s]

On my '75 USA FJ40, there are four harness wires just like your '76. These are the leads on that branch of the factory harness:
Red = igniter to distributor points.
(Fat) Black/Yellow = ignition switch 'ON'-position to external resister on top of the coil.
(Skinny) Black/Yellow = starter-solenoid to positive terminal of coil
And, a White/Black from harness ground to fender (ground)

Then there is a wire from the resister on top of the coil, opposite of the (fat) Black/Yellow terminal; it connects to the positive side of the coil.
Also, the 'radio kit' wire, the one withe the bullet connector, which is hooked up to nothing, but it is supposed to go to the capacitor for audio fidelity, from what Mudders tell me.

Your photo before the Petronix conversion suggests that the resistor terminal with the fat Black/Yellow was also tied to chassis/fender ground via the capacitor?

That is correct. It goes to a capacitor and then to ground. It is basically the same way now. But I also have the wire that looks yellow on one side and black with white stripe on the other side of the green connector. The yellow side is connected to the POS side of the coil and the other disappears into the taped harness. You are correct on the white with black stripe as it comes out of the harness and goes to a fender bolt.

 

[7677fj40s]

That is correct. It goes to a capacitor and then to ground. It is basically the same way now. But I also have the wire that looks yellow on one side and black with white stripe on the other side of the green connector. The yellow side is connected to the POS side of the coil and the other disappears into the taped harness. You are correct on the white with black stripe as it comes out of the harness and goes to a fender bolt.

I plan to trace down the green connector wire and see if it is the starter solenoid wire.

 

[7677fj40s]

I plan to trace down the green connector wire and see if it is the starter solenoid wire.

Green connector wire or skinny Black with white stripe rung out as wire to starter solenoid.

 

[7677fj40s]

Right now I feel good about the wiring and suspect I either bought a bad 1662ls or coil or both. The other could be that I burned up the 1662ls during my troubleshooting and wiring tribulations. I have a new 91662ls unit coming on the 4th. It comes with protection but I am sure I will find a way to mess it up. Thanks so much for all the help and I will follow up when I speak to pertronix and get the new parts. Let the electronic gods be upon me!

 

[Grayscale]

I could be wrong, but, no capacitors were ever on my '75. They are for points, not USA-equipped igniter systems, and certainly not on the positive-side of the coil, but, the negative side of the igniter or distributor (where they are grounded).
The ignition is going straight to ground, via one of the three Black/Yellow wires. But, again I'm not an expert.

Does the ignition switch have conductivity to the fat Black/Yellow, with the battery disconnected?

 

[7677fj40s]

I could be wrong, but, no capacitors were ever on my '75. They are for points, not USA-equipped igniter systems, and certainly not on the positive-side of the coil, but, the negative side of the igniter or distributor (where they are grounded).
The ignition is going straight to ground, via one of the three Black/Yellow wires. But, again I'm not an expert.

Does the ignition switch have conductivity to the fat Black/Yellow, with the battery disconnected?

I have disconnected the capacitor with no change.

 

[Malleus]

Right now I feel good about the wiring and suspect I either bought a bad 1662ls or coil or both. The other could be that I burned up the 1662ls during my troubleshooting and wiring tribulations. I have a new 91662ls unit coming on the 4th. It comes with protection but I am sure I will find a way to mess it up. Thanks so much for all the help and I will follow up when I speak to pertronix and get the new parts. Let the electronic gods be upon me!

You can check the coil continuity with a multilmeter. If it has contiunity and the resistance values check out (you'd have toget the resistance values from Pertonix to check that), I'd say it's good.

Again, I had exactly this setup with new Pertronix parts and it never worked. I gave up on it after an hour. You have far more patience for their parts than I do.

 

[pbgbottle]

Have ya just tried to hot wire it 12v to coil 12v to pertrnix crank it over Did you install the magnetic pickup under the rotor and maybe check air gap. Hmm. Just throwing ideas out here.

 

[7677fj40s]

You can check the coil continuity with a multilmeter. If it has contiunity and the resistance values check out (you'd have toget the resistance values from Pertonix to check that), I'd say it's good.

Again, I had exactly this setup with new Pertronix parts and it never worked. I gave up on it after an hour. You have far more patience for their parts than I do.

I did check the resistance and it measured 3ohms. I also check my original coil and it measured 1.5ohms without the resistor and 3 ohms with.

 

[Malleus]

OK, but you need to get the values from Pertronix. Every material is different and there's no guarantee they used the same material that Toyota's vendor used.

Call them; they'll tell you what it should be.

 

[7677fj40s]

Have ya just tried to hot wire it 12v to coil 12v to pertrnix crank it over Did you install the magnetic pickup under the rotor and maybe check air gap. Hmm. Just throwing ideas out here.

I have stayed away from the hot wire scenario but if all else fails and pertronix can’t help me it will be an option. This particular unit is an LS so it does not have the magnetic ring.

 

[7677fj40s]

Just wanted to post the latest. I spoke to pertronix and they seem very willing to help. They set me a resistance test as well as what they call a load test. I performed both of these test and the coil and system fall within the specified values. The resistance from the plate that the module attaches to is supposed to be less than .2ohms, check. The voltage with all connections plus a ground wire on the neg side of the coil with the key on should be between 8V and 11.5 volts, check. So now I wait for a response back from pertronix.

 

[7677fj40s]

Just wanted to post the latest. I spoke to pertronix and they seem very willing to help. They set me a resistance test as well as what they call a load test. I performed both of these test and the coil and system fall within the specified values. The resistance from the plate that the module attaches to is supposed to be less than .2ohms, check. The voltage with all connections plus a ground wire on the neg side of the coil with the key on should be between 8V and 11.5 volts, check. So now I wait for a response back from pertronix.

Last test shows I have a bad pertronix module. The test is a bench test that should show the unit drop the voltage as the lobe passes the sensor. My module reads 12.34V then only drops to 4.24. According to pertronix the voltage needs to drop to below 1.5V in order to fire the coil. So I have ordered a new pertronix igniter II and a .6ohm coil. The igniter II wont arrive until Jan 18th so now I wait. In the mean time I am looking for someone to test and rebuild my original 1976 ignitor. I want to have the old system as a back up. I have the original points distributor as well and the points from the new city racer distributor. Hopefully soon I will be back on the road with a couple back up options. If you know someone that test the old semi electronic units please let me know. I posted a note with @Engineer8000 to see if he could help me.