Permanent fix (in progress): Fuel/temp gauge spiking (pics, not dialup friendly) (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Spook50
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- #82
Outstanding!
- Thread starter
- #83
Quickie update: Got the through-hole components needed to prototype the switching style regulator (which will be much better than a linear in extreme temperatures) and popped the circuit together on one of my breadboards to verify that everything checks out, and it looks like it's all good to go. The next step is getting a PCB etched and cut and if that works in the vehicle move on to an identical circuit using SMT components.
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- #84
I got an order in for a set of prototype PCBs from Smart Prototyping. I'll have enough to make three prototypes (actually I have ten boards coming, but I only have three ICs on hand at this point). My guesstimate on lead time is about three weeks and I put in the order on Monday the 2nd. Huge thanks to those who've contributed to my GoFundMe campaign. I wouldn't even have been able to take this step without your help.
For those of you who've contributed, would you want one of the "prototype" boards (assuming they work on my test bed when I get them), or would you rather wait until I have a finalized product that I'm actively selling? If the ordered prototypes work, the circuit will be identical to the final product and use thru-hole components instead of SMT. SMT boards will be the next step (again, identical circuit) once I build a pick n' place machine and a remelt oven, but I decided I'm going to initially produce thru-hole boards and begin selling so that I can get more funds built up and upgrade to SMT when funds allow.
For those of you who've contributed, would you want one of the "prototype" boards (assuming they work on my test bed when I get them), or would you rather wait until I have a finalized product that I'm actively selling? If the ordered prototypes work, the circuit will be identical to the final product and use thru-hole components instead of SMT. SMT boards will be the next step (again, identical circuit) once I build a pick n' place machine and a remelt oven, but I decided I'm going to initially produce thru-hole boards and begin selling so that I can get more funds built up and upgrade to SMT when funds allow.
red66toy
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I don't really know the diff between thru-hole and SMT ... Pix would help. But I'm inclined to wait for production model if it's gonna be on a PCB. Am I wrong ?
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- #87
Not at all. The real difference between thru-hole components and SMT (surface mount technology) is the thru-hole parts are larger, costlier by a small fraction being basically an older manufacturing technology, and assembly takes longer than SMT because each lead on each component is individually soldered. An identical circuit using SMT components can take up less than half the space of a circuit using thru-hole components. SMT is generally the preferred way to build electronics products now, but is very difficult to assemble and solder by hand, which is why a pick n' place machine and remelt oven are pretty much necessary. Both are mounted on PCB (printed circuit board), so the only real difference between the two in reference to the voltage regulator will be a smaller overall board with SMT components versus thru-hole.
For a visual, these are all thru-hole components here:
And this is a board using all SMT:
I'll take a thru-hole board when it's ready, thanks
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- #90
Good news. Just got an email from the prototyping service and my test boards shipped yesterday. Deutschepost says about 7-11 business days for delivery. Keeping my fingers crossed it's closer to 7....
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- #92
Looky what I got!
My first batch of (prototype) PCBs, done up by a prototyping shop in Germany. Came in the mail this morning and I'll be soldering one up in the next day or two and seeing if it'll fit the way it's supposed to on my gauge cluster. The coloring looks pretty close to factory, which I didn't expect but it's a nice bonus.
My first batch of (prototype) PCBs, done up by a prototyping shop in Germany. Came in the mail this morning and I'll be soldering one up in the next day or two and seeing if it'll fit the way it's supposed to on my gauge cluster. The coloring looks pretty close to factory, which I didn't expect but it's a nice bonus.
this is getting exciting...
maat
yeah nah maybe
Wow man nice work, I caught this thread when you first started and now I come back and you have a german board professionally made!!
I wonder how hard it would be to convert this to 24v
I wonder how hard it would be to convert this to 24v
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- #97
According to the controller's datasheet, it'll handle input voltages of up to 40VDC. As long as the posts on the back of the gauge that I mount it to are the same configuration as the 12V vehicles, it should be plug n' play for the 24V models. I'm hoping to send one to someone to test though just to make sure. Kind of a beta test I guess you could say.Wow man nice work, I caught this thread when you first started and now I come back and you have a german board professionally made!!
I wonder how hard it would be to convert this to 24v
maat
yeah nah maybe
Im keen, although my guages have only played up once. Pm me if you want me to try it out
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- #99
Well I've got one populated, set to the right voltage and installed on my gauge cluster. Would've been earlier but this last week was finals for my Associates degree (95% boyee!) and I was swamped. I haven't put it back in my truck yet for real world testing yet but the fit is good (good enough for a test unit anyway. I'm going to make a few little tweaks and order another set within the next week I'm planning). Bench testing in the lab all came out good as well. Aside from a few cosmetic changes, this is what the 1st gen thru-hole regulators will look like.
To ensure no contact is made between the regulator and the factory PCB, I kept the factory nuts in place, removed the lock washers, mounted the regulator on top of the nuts and then placed the lock washers and 4M nuts on the regulator. Since the SMT based regulators will have nothing protruding from the bottom of the board, a set of copper washers will be used simply to ensure positive contact between the pads on both the regulator and the factory PCB.
To ensure no contact is made between the regulator and the factory PCB, I kept the factory nuts in place, removed the lock washers, mounted the regulator on top of the nuts and then placed the lock washers and 4M nuts on the regulator. Since the SMT based regulators will have nothing protruding from the bottom of the board, a set of copper washers will be used simply to ensure positive contact between the pads on both the regulator and the factory PCB.
