Not seeing a downside here other than losing ABS, which could be a debatable loss.
part time conversion w pics.
- Thread starter scrowley
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Not seeing a downside here other than losing ABS, which could be a debatable loss.
Marks makes a sensor relocation kit that will allow you to keep ABS even after you convert to part time.... Anyone try it?
I have it - very easy install. Only draw back is that it was developed to fit 100 series rotors. These are built so that the disk bolts to the spindle/housing the wheel bearings ride in. This is different on the 80 -its one piece for the rotor and spindle thingy.
The abs kit has a ring - called a boss that is drifted onto the spindle. On a two piece rotor - no probs to get it off -just unbolt the disk and then drift away. On the 80 series, you need a slide hammer to pull it or cut the rotor apart to drift it off.
I haven't had to replace rotors yet so I don't know how difficult it is to "slide" it off but I'm considering purchasing a spare set of bosses so I can just finish a brake job and then take my time to cut the rotors apart and retrieve the original bosses for a future swap.
The abs kit has a ring - called a boss that is drifted onto the spindle. On a two piece rotor - no probs to get it off -just unbolt the disk and then drift away. On the 80 series, you need a slide hammer to pull it or cut the rotor apart to drift it off.
I haven't had to replace rotors yet so I don't know how difficult it is to "slide" it off but I'm considering purchasing a spare set of bosses so I can just finish a brake job and then take my time to cut the rotors apart and retrieve the original bosses for a future swap.
Huh? What does a part time vs awd have system have to do with suspension design?
Have you noticed any performance gains or increased mileage?
Kevo
With PT, you don't have any front driveline vibes that come due to high lift up front, at least, not until you're in 4wd. Another benefit is being able to use Longfields without killing them on the hwy.
Ok @scrowley just ordered my spool yesterday. Any other tips or tricks before I dive in? I should probably start on the VC first to get that out of the way.
- Thread starter
- #47
Nice. Job was straight forward. I would replace main bearing that goes on spool. Or you can press old off and 're use. My old one was in good shape though. Lokka instructions are vague but sufficient.
Put spool in freezer day before install so bearing presses on easier.
A long nosed set snap ring plier would be great for getting VC snap ring off. Mine where barely long enough. Standard size.
Also need loctite bearing setting stuff when you press on new or old bearing onto spool. Little bottle was like $30!! I can take pic of bottle if you dint know what I'm talking about. I don't remember loc tire number.
Put spool in freezer day before install so bearing presses on easier.
A long nosed set snap ring plier would be great for getting VC snap ring off. Mine where barely long enough. Standard size.
Also need loctite bearing setting stuff when you press on new or old bearing onto spool. Little bottle was like $30!! I can take pic of bottle if you dint know what I'm talking about. I don't remember loc tire number.
Did mine this weekend. I would highly recommend removing the part of the exhaust behind the cat to give more room and MUCH better visibility.
I'm ready to start on mine this weekend. I've picked up a spare case to do it on the bench and swap in at the same time I swap in my e-lockers that I've rebuilt/regeared.
My confusion is the difference between this and Beno's thread.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/converting-hf2av-transfer-case-into-part-time-transfer-case.358811/
I've got the Marlin gears on the shelf and the spacer as described that thread, the spacer made, just confused as to the need for the Lokka. Sorry to be thick, just double-checking before I start digging into it...
My confusion is the difference between this and Beno's thread.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/converting-hf2av-transfer-case-into-part-time-transfer-case.358811/
I've got the Marlin gears on the shelf and the spacer as described that thread, the spacer made, just confused as to the need for the Lokka. Sorry to be thick, just double-checking before I start digging into it...
I think it is Loctite #680
Have anybody noticed any MPG gains doing this mod ?
I think the consensus is that you will not gain any real noticeable gain in MPG. Most guys do it to have a selectable front end in order to minimize driveline vibes on the street and / or run longfields on the street with less wear.
My kit showed up this week, along with some chromo axles. Maybe you guys can save me a call, the chromo's already have the inner groove, and I purchased the Aisin hubs so I need to grind, or chop saw the end off the birf. Anyone know how much to lop off, or rather how much to leave on there past (outward) the inner groove? One would think 1/4"-3/8"? And Scrowley, I see you put some header wrap on your exhaust, is it routed between the rails? Kina looks like it is but not sure. Always wanted to eliminate the crummy wheel well outboard routing, but I'm skeptical about all that heat next to the floor and tcase.
- Thread starter
- #54
I routed the exhaust over the frame. So I wrapped it in header wrap where it is close to the floor. It's just as hot on the pass side as it was before.
Thanks man!
Is anyone (other than Jose...I know he did) deleting the ABS as part of the install?
Thanks Phil...good to know. Deleting the ABS has kept me on the fence with this locker, but reading Jose's and other threads makes me think that not having ABS is somewhat beneficial when considering stopping performance. What are your thoughts on both the locker and not having ABS?
Hijack over
as far as ABS goes it really depends on how you use the truck and your comfort level with not having it, I can see both sides of the coin, for me specifically I don't think deleting it is a good idea for my use, I carry my whole family in the vehicle and am still on 285's as far as tire size, my wife drives the truck on long trips and 95% of our use is on the street on long trips......
Have a question for the guys who have done this. I'm in the process of tearing down the T-Case for this and have the rear extension off and am now removing the rear half of the case.
I've removed the outer c-clip from the orange bearing of the input shaft assembly.
It looks like that assembly should now remain in place as I take that rear half off. But that doesn't seem to be the situation. Is there something else I need to remove?
I've removed the outer c-clip from the orange bearing of the input shaft assembly.
It looks like that assembly should now remain in place as I take that rear half off. But that doesn't seem to be the situation. Is there something else I need to remove?