Can you post a picture of where you are at?
You don't need to go further in than this.
part time conversion w pics.
- Thread starter scrowley
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You don't need to go further in than this.
see that orange bearing in the upper left corner, it wont stay in the case and wants to come off with the half that is removed in the picture.
And you removed the large snap ring from the back side of the rear case half?
If I recall correctly, you may need to tap on the back side of the bearing with a soft mallet before you pull the rear case half off. If you pull the input shaft out, you should really replace the seals.
If I recall correctly, you may need to tap on the back side of the bearing with a soft mallet before you pull the rear case half off. If you pull the input shaft out, you should really replace the seals.
Got it! your last picture showed me what I needed to see to have the confidence to use a hammer on it. All apart and ready for a morning install.
Which locking hubs are you going with? I ask because I just had to cut off an AVM...Replaced with aisin.
I'm going with Aisin hubs and Nitro Birfs.
I am about to save you some aggrevation.
If you are getting the chromoly nitro Birfs, they will come with a zerk fitting in the outbound end of the birf. This zerk is about 30-40 thousandths too long to work with the aisins and will apply pressure against the inside of the selector hub when you tighten the 6 10mm hub bolts. This will make it impossible to turn the selector from part to full.
I went through this on Friday night for 2 hrs before realizing it was the zerk. I removed the zerk and will plug the hole when I figure out the right type and size thread to use.
If you are getting the chromoly nitro Birfs, they will come with a zerk fitting in the outbound end of the birf. This zerk is about 30-40 thousandths too long to work with the aisins and will apply pressure against the inside of the selector hub when you tighten the 6 10mm hub bolts. This will make it impossible to turn the selector from part to full.
I went through this on Friday night for 2 hrs before realizing it was the zerk. I removed the zerk and will plug the hole when I figure out the right type and size thread to use.
The bearing does fit tight
Yes that could probably work...however I am having a hard time picturing how you would connect a grease gun to that fitting.
we have them on our equipment. You use a needle type tip and just press it into the seat. Alot easier and less messy than the standard zerk
here is what it looks like
http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-5803-Grease-Needle/dp/B0002SR6XE?tag=ihco-20
here is what it looks like
http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-5803-Grease-Needle/dp/B0002SR6XE?tag=ihco-20
Ah yes, that makes sense. Yes that should work, once we figure out the right thread. I have a call into easct coast gear supply to ask this exact question...if that doesnt pan out I will just start ordering zerks/plugs til i fing the right one.
I use the same needle on all my zerks for years. Make getting to any type zerk much easier. The needle is coupled together in the picture with a HF hand grease dispenser, works excellent on drivelines.
Honestly, I never saw the benefit to doing this UNTIL I pulled my front driveshaft to change the U joints this weekend. Locked the CDL and drove it around and HOLY COW she drives smooth. And, is it just me but does it seem like there isn't as much power loss? I don't know if or how it is possible but it seems like it. It also seems to make a tighter turning radius and less "work" to drive it. I'm assuming this is because there isn't power going to the front wheels. I'm adding this to my list.
Question, since I have a 92 I don't have the viscous coupler. Is there anything else I need besides the Lokka kit and the manual hubs? I have Nitro birfs so I will have to go the low profile zerk route.
Question, since I have a 92 I don't have the viscous coupler. Is there anything else I need besides the Lokka kit and the manual hubs? I have Nitro birfs so I will have to go the low profile zerk route.
I didnt realize you could use that needle on regular zerks. That would make greasing the center ball of a DC joint real easy.I use the same needle on all my zerks for years. Make getting to any type zerk much easier. The needle is coupled together in the picture with a HF hand grease dispenser, works excellent on drivelines.
Nope, that's all you need. You have the benefit of not needing to get that pesky VC snap ring off. I am considering part timing my 92 as well.. but not until after I have finished the diesel conversion on the 97.
Works excellent on all zerks and driveline placement is less of an issue. Now that you are part time you need a gun that can be operated with one hand while the other holds the front drive line from turning when greasing it.
See picture above for the correct snap ring pliers to remove the VC snap ring with ease.
