Part Number Needed - Plastic Guard, mounts under driver and passenger seats -- FOUND: 51420-60010 “COVER, ENGINE UNDER, NO.2” (1 Viewer)

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Thanks for the replies and recommendations everyone. I am likely going to pick up the TJM one, or one of the other recommended “light weight” skids, at some point.

I had a look under my truck, and the front skid plate is gone enough (rust/rot) I am going to replace it with my “new” one. The tabs in the back of the front skid plate are gone, so nothing there to bolt the “COVER 2” on to anyway.

This morning my kids and I power washed my “new” skid plates, de-greased them, and hit them with rustoleum converter plus high heat paint.

I forgot to take some “before” pictures but they were caked in mud and grease, with some surface rust in a few small areas.

Here they are after the kids helped me clean and paint them

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If and when these need replacing, I will upgrade to something better.

That reminds me... anyone know if there is a part number for the foam pad that goes along the front skid plate engine side?
 
This is cheap and people like it.


I think I am going to order this plus the TJM “cover 2”. Given both bolt into the original mount points, I hope they will be compatible.


View attachment 2418494
I believe it’s TJM-077SBSUM81U. I got mine from Dirty Parts in California.

I am still using my used replacements parts, but I want to have these “upgrades” available for when I need to replace my OEM parts next time.
 
View attachment 2418494
I believe it’s TJM-077SBSUM81U. I got mine from Dirty Parts in California.
@ASFIR 4X4 makes a nice aluminum skid set. These are made in Israel and of great quality. Leonard is a great guy and super responsive! They are going to release updated skids that better fit our IFS / gas engine 100 series after doing some laser scans of a few volunteer trucks a few months ago. For overlanding it’s a great option compared to the oem plastic skid.

TJM makes a mid skid replacement that is made of steel and it’s decent for the price.

Dissent, Bumpitoffroad, and Slee all make beefier skids for more hardcore use but cost a pretty penny! Interestingly, Bud Built and ARB don’t offer anything in term of skids.

Argh... lots of choices. The problem is I have OEM parts ready to be installed now. It would be good to have these “upgrades” on hand, but I don’t really need them at the moment.
 
This is what I run: ASFIR front and TJM in the mid. The TJM covers the tranny, but I wanted to replaced my rusted cross member hence the Trail Tailor creeper skid for my transmission/transfer case 100 Series Creeper Skidplate.

It's good to have so many great options!
 
Check these TJM pics out from @2000UZJ and @Fitzgerald....


 
Holy smokes... The price is unbeatable. Great alternative to stock IMO.

I wonder why they don't have a front skid plate. Or it's included with the bumper?


 
This is what I run: ASFIR front and TJM in the mid. The TJM covers the tranny, but I wanted to replaced my rusted cross member hence the Trail Tailor creeper skid for my transmission/transfer case 100 Series Creeper Skidplate.
It's good to have so many great options!

Can you post a photo of your setup to show how they match up? A lot of the photos from the TJM skid thread have been dropped. Sounds like a good budget combo.
 
@rrc swb I think the 2nd one you posted is TJMs front skid replacement. Back when I got the middle skid from TJM this wasn’t yet offered.
TJM Front
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@SlowBuild , I’ll try to snap some pictures tomorrow and post them up.
 
Holy smokes... The price is unbeatable. Great alternative to stock IMO.

I wonder why they don't have a front skid plate. Or it's included with the bumper?



This is what I run: ASFIR front and TJM in the mid. The TJM covers the tranny, but I wanted to replaced my rusted cross member hence the Trail Tailor creeper skid for my transmission/transfer case 100 Series Creeper Skidplate.

It's good to have so many great options!


Wow! this is great! I never realized there were so many inexpensive options that would still be a substantial upgrade over the stock OEM parts!
 
@rrc swb I think the 2nd one you posted is TJMs front skid replacement. Back when I got the middle skid from TJM this wasn’t yet offered.
TJM FrontView attachment 2420367
@SlowBuild , I’ll try to snap some pictures tomorrow and post them up.
You are correct. The name is want got me confused.

The one you posted is the front...

Middle and rear, right?

skids.jpg



Do you have all three?
 
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@Slashzero here is the rear of the TJM Middle (Sump guard) and how it overlaps with the transmission guard part of the Trail Tailor Creeper skid. Not in view is the skid part for the transfer case.

The rear skid from TJM requires the OEM cross member. I didn’t like it as it required test fitting and marking where to drill on the mid skid after aligning to the cross member. Then removing to drill and refit. Plus no added protection for the transfer case. The triplet set of holes is where the OEM t/c case skid is reinstalled.

In contrast the Trail Tailor creeper skid aligned perfectly and bolted right in, no need to widen any holes.
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@rrc swb I run the ASFIR in front and have the TJM mid skid (sump guard) tucked under it. The middle 2 bolt holes align with the rear holes of the ASFIR to my Trail Tailor diff drop. I found hot glue is great for holding the diff drop spacers in place and aligned on the diff drop. This makes it so much easier to get the bolts in. I recall having to widen the TJM holes a bit to make easier to install. The front two holes on the TJM skid aren’t used if mated to the ASFIR skid.

Annoyingly, the TJM mid skid has a cut out for the engine oil drain plug but it is not located in the right location. I now have a fumoto drain valve so it’s no longer an issue.

I found a test shot when I first got the ASFIR skid to see if the TJM mid skid could be bolted on the outside of the ASFIR. It’s a no go if installed this way as the front edge of the TJM skid would be exposed and could catch on rocks.
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If I were to do it again on a budget I would wait and go with the ASFIR skids (front and mid skids) especially once they release the petrol version for our North America spec 100 series. As I expect the oil drain hole to line up and the amount of fiddling and modifying needed be minimal when installing. In my case I would still do the Trail Tailor creeper skid as I wanted to replace a rusted transmission cross member.
 
Excellent! Thanks for the update and pics.
 
@Slashzero here is the rear of the TJM Middle (Sump guard) and how it overlaps with the transmission guard part of the Trail Tailor Creeper skid. Not in view is the skid part for the transfer case.

The rear skid from TJM requires the OEM cross member. I didn’t like it as it required test fitting and marking where to drill on the mid skid after aligning to the cross member. Then removing to drill and refit. Plus no added protection for the transfer case. The triplet set of holes is where the OEM t/c case skid is reinstalled.

In contrast the Trail Tailor creeper skid aligned perfectly and bolted right in, no need to widen any holes.
View attachment 2421513

@rrc swb I run the ASFIR in front and have the TJM mid skid (sump guard) tucked under it. The middle 2 bolt holes align with the rear holes of the ASFIR to my Trail Tailor diff drop. I found hot glue is great for holding the diff drop spacers in place and aligned on the diff drop. This makes it so much easier to get the bolts in. I recall having to widen the TJM holes a bit to make easier to install. The front two holes on the TJM skid aren’t used if mated to the ASFIR skid.

Annoyingly, the TJM mid skid has a cut out for the engine oil drain plug but it is not located in the right location. I now have a fumoto drain valve so it’s no longer an issue.

I found a test shot when I first got the ASFIR skid to see if the TJM mid skid could be bolted on the outside of the ASFIR. It’s a no go if installed this way as the front edge of the TJM skid would be exposed and could catch on rocks.
View attachment 2421519

If I were to do it again on a budget I would wait and go with the ASFIR skids (front and mid skids) especially once they release the petrol version for our North America spec 100 series. As I expect the oil drain hole to line up and the amount of fiddling and modifying needed be minimal when installing. In my case I would still do the Trail Tailor creeper skid as I wanted to replace a rusted transmission cross member.

Thank you for posting the picture. I have the TT creeper skid painted red and ready for installation with a new trans mount.

When you installed the creeper skid, did you lift the transmission using a jack at the point where the engine meets the bell housing?

I have used that location to lift the engine when installing motor mounts.

No rusted bolts in the way of removing the old factory skid. This should be an easy installation. I'm just looking for a good place to support the transmission while I have the old skid out and replacing the trans mount.



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