@Slashzero here is the rear of the TJM Middle (Sump guard) and how it overlaps with the transmission guard part of the Trail Tailor Creeper skid. Not in view is the skid part for the transfer case.
The rear skid from TJM requires the OEM cross member. I didn’t like it as it required test fitting and marking where to drill on the mid skid after aligning to the cross member. Then removing to drill and refit. Plus no added protection for the transfer case. The triplet set of holes is where the OEM t/c case skid is reinstalled.
In contrast the Trail Tailor creeper skid aligned perfectly and bolted right in, no need to widen any holes.
View attachment 2421513
@rrc swb I run the ASFIR in front and have the TJM mid skid (sump guard) tucked under it. The middle 2 bolt holes align with the rear holes of the ASFIR to my Trail Tailor diff drop. I found hot glue is great for holding the diff drop spacers in place and aligned on the diff drop. This makes it so much easier to get the bolts in. I recall having to widen the TJM holes a bit to make easier to install. The front two holes on the TJM skid aren’t used if mated to the ASFIR skid.
Annoyingly, the TJM mid skid has a cut out for the engine oil drain plug but it is not located in the right location. I now have a fumoto drain valve so it’s no longer an issue.
I found a test shot when I first got the ASFIR skid to see if the TJM mid skid could be bolted on the outside of the ASFIR. It’s a no go if installed this way as the front edge of the TJM skid would be exposed and could catch on rocks.
View attachment 2421519
If I were to do it again on a budget I would wait and go with the ASFIR skids (front and mid skids) especially once they release the petrol version for our North America spec 100 series. As I expect the oil drain hole to line up and the amount of fiddling and modifying needed be minimal when installing. In my case I would still do the Trail Tailor creeper skid as I wanted to replace a rusted transmission cross member.