Builds Pappy's 3RZ Adventure
- Thread starter pappy
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I'm still in Texas. Moving back to AZ in the next year or so in the East Valley. I might start up again down there, but I want to keep it a small, boutique style shop.
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- #203
I had the spring removed on Friday. Results:
Idle before: 10psi ... Idle after 25psi
3000rpm before: 50psi ... after 40psi
Better, and still in spec, but not by much (36-75psi at 3000rpm). I would like to have more psi at rpm, but this is within what Toyota wants. It makes me wonder what the difference would be if I had left in the large spring and removed the inner spring.
Hopefully they didn't tell you the opposite by mistake. How hard is it to try?
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- #205
I have it in writing in an email. Hopefully I'm OK. Doing the swap involves dropping the oil pan to access the relief valve on the timing cover.
Gotcha, I thought just maybe it wouldn't be too difficult to try the other spring. Have you tried the smaller pulley yet?
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- #207
The pulley is installed, but I haven't really tested it yet. I'm taking the truck into a muffler shop tomorrow to deal with a restriction. I will then have some freeway time getting it home.
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- #208
Back at it. I sourced the 2RZ oil pressure relief spring from Toyota. It's the same diameter as the outer 3RZ, but half way in between the inner and outer in length. The retainer was also different. At some point I will install the 2RZ spring and see what happens.
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- #209
I did have a setback. I had been getting a P230/P225 code, knock sensor. At first it was only when the engine was cold. After the engine warmed up it went away. I had the knock sensor replaced with an aftermarket sensor. I drove it from Scottsdale to ABQ for about ~300 miles without issue, then the light came on near Gallup. I nursed the truck home. The issue then went away, but I didn't trust it, so I sourced an OEM and had it installed. I drove the truck for two days, no issue. Confidant the issue was resolved I packed for a trip to Ouray ... and I didn't make it out of town. The light came back on.
Without further suspense, the problem turned out to be the ECM.
I'll put this here even though it's very specific to my application. My donor was a 1998 4Runner, M/T, 2WD. The Tacoma's are different. Toyota used three part numbers for this application, 89661-3D420, -3D421, -3D422. My donor ECM was a 422. I sourced two ECM's, a 420, and a 422. Both ran the engine without issue. If you look up the 420/421 computers at Toyota they both supersede to the 422. Of course, NLA.
Without further suspense, the problem turned out to be the ECM.
I'll put this here even though it's very specific to my application. My donor was a 1998 4Runner, M/T, 2WD. The Tacoma's are different. Toyota used three part numbers for this application, 89661-3D420, -3D421, -3D422. My donor ECM was a 422. I sourced two ECM's, a 420, and a 422. Both ran the engine without issue. If you look up the 420/421 computers at Toyota they both supersede to the 422. Of course, NLA.
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- Thread starter
- #210
One modification I made that i haven't talked about is the heater valve.
The online solution is to use the plastic valve from a 1990-1995 truck. I didn't like how that tucked in behind the EGR.
I installed a servo-valve from Vintage Air. It's electronic, not cable. I switched positions at the heater core to move it away from the EGR. I also did some hose magic, though I'm going to look for a better solution.
The only trick is you still need to move the dash slider to heat. The slider controls two valves. The heater valve under the hood, and a blend valve under the dash. The new valve under the hood is controlled by a reostat that I mounted under the radio.
Vintage Air says to install the valve under the dash. I didn't.
The online solution is to use the plastic valve from a 1990-1995 truck. I didn't like how that tucked in behind the EGR.
I installed a servo-valve from Vintage Air. It's electronic, not cable. I switched positions at the heater core to move it away from the EGR. I also did some hose magic, though I'm going to look for a better solution.
The only trick is you still need to move the dash slider to heat. The slider controls two valves. The heater valve under the hood, and a blend valve under the dash. The new valve under the hood is controlled by a reostat that I mounted under the radio.
Vintage Air says to install the valve under the dash. I didn't.
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- Thread starter
- #211
For the record I didn't know about the blend valve under the dash. I was educated on that by a Toyota engineer.
That's a clean adaptation you did. Are you happy with the way it works?
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- #213
So far. I found out about the second valve today. It will get a through test in the morning.
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- #214
Very pleased. I have heat, and I was able to defrost my windows this morning.
Hmmmm, I like this idea a lot. Currently I am sliding my dash control to move the blend door appropriately and then getting out and manually turning the heater core bypass valve to where it needs to be. I am with you on not liking how it sits with the EGR - I just haven't gotten around to a solution for this because heat is never really needed here in summer. That's all changing quickly.
This has me thinking about making some 3D printed mounts and required linkage to have the dash control slide the rheostat with the blend door linkage. If I recall, you can see it all easily enough by removing the radio portion of the dash and perhaps the panel that covers the e brake.
Did you use these two? I know you said Rheostat, so want to double check. If I model and print something that works I don't mind mailing a set to anyone who wants it.
vintageair.com
vintageair.com
This has me thinking about making some 3D printed mounts and required linkage to have the dash control slide the rheostat with the blend door linkage. If I recall, you can see it all easily enough by removing the radio portion of the dash and perhaps the panel that covers the e brake.
Did you use these two? I know you said Rheostat, so want to double check. If I model and print something that works I don't mind mailing a set to anyone who wants it.
Heater Systems Conversion to Servo Heater Control Valve Kit
vintageair.com
Gen II Slide Pot For Servo Heater Valve
vintageair.com
- Thread starter
- #216
Hmmmm, I like this idea a lot. Currently I am sliding my dash control to move the blend door appropriately and then getting out and manually turning the heater core bypass valve to where it needs to be. I am with you on not liking how it sits with the EGR - I just haven't gotten around to a solution for this because heat is never really needed here in summer. That's all changing quickly.
This has me thinking about making some 3D printed mounts and required linkage to have the dash control slide the rheostat with the blend door linkage. If I recall, you can see it all easily enough by removing the radio portion of the dash and perhaps the panel that covers the e brake.
Did you use these two? I know you said Rheostat, so want to double check. If I model and print something that works I don't mind mailing a set to anyone who wants it.
Heater Systems Conversion to Servo Heater Control Valve Kit
Gen II Slide Pot For Servo Heater Valve
I used Servo Heater Control Valve Kit 50507-VUA.
Something to consider. I just had 4 weeks of playing with this in the wild. What I ultimately did was turn the servo valve to hot (or half way), and control the temperature inside the truck with just the mixing valve slider on the dash. Unless I was going to need AC, then I turned the servo to cold.
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- #217
Since it indirectly came up, here is what I did for gauges. I used Autometer gauges, Boost, Oil, Temp. The gauges are mounted on a 3-gauge A-pillar pod. This pod was sold years ago, and is no longer available. It looks like the fella is still selling a 2-gauge pod through LC Engineering.
For the oil pressure sender I used a metric adapter to screw the sender in the factory location. The only thing I needed to do was clearance the AC mounting bracket. There is a sender used on 1990-1995 trucks and 4Runners that is supposed to work with our gauges. I did source one from the boneyard, but decided to use the Autometer instead. Note that the donor trucks are all idiot light and didn't have gauges for the oil. You cannot hook up the idiot light sender to our gauges.
For the temperature sender I also used the factory location, but I didn't use an adapter. The threads on our trucks is metric British pipe thread (BSP) where the Auto meter gauges are National Pipe Thread (NPT.) I sourced a water outlet from the boneyard (in case I messed up) and ran a NPT tap through it. I didn't bother to drill since the outlet was aluminum. The sender went in tight and doesn't leak.
Gauge pod.
Oil pressure sender.
Temperature sender.
For the oil pressure sender I used a metric adapter to screw the sender in the factory location. The only thing I needed to do was clearance the AC mounting bracket. There is a sender used on 1990-1995 trucks and 4Runners that is supposed to work with our gauges. I did source one from the boneyard, but decided to use the Autometer instead. Note that the donor trucks are all idiot light and didn't have gauges for the oil. You cannot hook up the idiot light sender to our gauges.
For the temperature sender I also used the factory location, but I didn't use an adapter. The threads on our trucks is metric British pipe thread (BSP) where the Auto meter gauges are National Pipe Thread (NPT.) I sourced a water outlet from the boneyard (in case I messed up) and ran a NPT tap through it. I didn't bother to drill since the outlet was aluminum. The sender went in tight and doesn't leak.
Gauge pod.
Oil pressure sender.
Temperature sender.
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Pappy, looking at doing the LCE supercharger or turbo (since it’s about $700 cheaper) and I have a few questions.
With the smaller pulley you went to what boost number are you seeing now?
Are you letting the stock ecu control it or did you add a piggy back? If it’s the stock ecu, have you had issues with pinging especially during high ambient temps?
Did you keep the stock injectors or did you go to pink tops?
With the smaller pulley you went to what boost number are you seeing now?
Are you letting the stock ecu control it or did you add a piggy back? If it’s the stock ecu, have you had issues with pinging especially during high ambient temps?
Did you keep the stock injectors or did you go to pink tops?
