Panhard drop bracket option? (3 Viewers)

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Installed one of the Dr KDSS brackets after binge reading this thread, I feel like an idiot for not doing it sooner. Absolutely cleaned up that weird little "wag/wiggle/instability" I was feeling and brought it back to that factory planted feel. For those debating, I'm on an OME nitro charger setup with the shim spacers and 34s, used the top hole as I don't run super heavy most of the time (not towing much anymore), just some ADGU drawers in the rear.

If you're on the fence, strongly recommend, truly the best ~$200 I've spent in a while on the truck.

I’ve been sitting on a weld on version for a while now and this comment just convinced me to order one of these bolt on versions within 2 minutes of reading it.
I just threw on the RW with 35” pizza cutter Kendas and I can hardly stand how much more prevalent the wiggle became over the past week.
 
I’ve been sitting on a weld on version for a while now and this comment just convinced me to order one of these bolt on versions within 2 minutes of reading it.
I just threw on the RW with 35” pizza cutter Kendas and I can hardly stand how much more prevalent the wiggle became over the past week.
You won’t be disappointed! I’m shocked at how significant of an impact it made for 200$ and 10mins of wrenching…
 
You won’t be disappointed! I’m shocked at how significant of an impact it made for 200$ and 10mins of wrenching…
I’ll second that. It gives me newfound amazement at just how tightly engineered our vehicles are
 
I went ahead and installed the correction bracket on my 2009 LX, and while I still need to do some more testing, my initial impressions are quite positive. The rear end feels noticeably more robust and sturdy, which is exactly what I was hoping for.

Here are a few observations from the installation process, particularly for those considering the shorty version on an 09 LX:

OEM Bracket Stiffness: The OEM bracket is incredibly stiff. It took a few wrench pulls to bend it just enough for the new correction bracket to fit properly. If you’re doing this install, be prepared for a bit of muscle work.

Rear Sway Bar Removal: The rear sway bar needs to be removed for this install. I’m not sure if this is specific to the LX or just my particular setup, but none of the videos I referenced showed a rear sway bar, so it was a bit unexpected.

Longer Screw Required: To reattach the rear OEM sway bar, you’ll need a longer screw. Although Dr. KDSS provided two screws, I still had to source my own.

Missing Lug Nut: Oddly enough, Dr. KDSS didn’t provide a lug nut for the OEM Panhard screw, so I had to source my own. Not a huge deal, but worth noting for anyone planning to do this themselves.

Overall, I'm happy with the outcome so far, but I'll report back once I've had a chance to put it through its paces on the road.

Before

1000026467.jpg


After

1000026463.jpg
 
I went ahead and installed the correction bracket on my 2009 LX, and while I still need to do some more testing, my initial impressions are quite positive. The rear end feels noticeably more robust and sturdy, which is exactly what I was hoping for.

Here are a few observations from the installation process, particularly for those considering the shorty version on an 09 LX:

OEM Bracket Stiffness: The OEM bracket is incredibly stiff. It took a few wrench pulls to bend it just enough for the new correction bracket to fit properly. If you’re doing this install, be prepared for a bit of muscle work.

Rear Sway Bar Removal: The rear sway bar needs to be removed for this install. I’m not sure if this is specific to the LX or just my particular setup, but none of the videos I referenced showed a rear sway bar, so it was a bit unexpected.

Longer Screw Required: To reattach the rear OEM sway bar, you’ll need a longer screw. Although Dr. KDSS provided two screws, I still had to source my own.

Missing Lug Nut: Oddly enough, Dr. KDSS didn’t provide a lug nut for the OEM Panhard screw, so I had to source my own. Not a huge deal, but worth noting for anyone planning to do this themselves.

Overall, I'm happy with the outcome so far, but I'll report back once I've had a chance to put it through its paces on the road.

Before

View attachment 3698429

After

View attachment 3698430

Interesting. The kit I bought had all hardware included.

Also, I did not have to bend the OEM bracket to fit the new bracket inside it, I just had to smack it with a rubber mallet and/or pry it downward a little with a long handle. It was fairly undramatic. I guess small variations per truck show up with this mod.
 
Just did the DRKDSS bolt on version…
I must say initial results are positive.
I also relocated the end links out side the cradle on the front along with a KDSS relocation bracket..
IMG_3449.jpeg
 
I just did the DRKDSS bolt-on version for our 2016 last week, and it's a very noticeable improvement. Given the cost and ease of install I can't recommend it enough if you have a 2.5+ inch lift in the rear.
 
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I went ahead and installed the correction bracket on my 2009 LX, and while I still need to do some more testing, my initial impressions are quite positive. The rear end feels noticeably more robust and sturdy, which is exactly what I was hoping for.

Here are a few observations from the installation process, particularly for those considering the shorty version on an 09 LX:

OEM Bracket Stiffness: The OEM bracket is incredibly stiff. It took a few wrench pulls to bend it just enough for the new correction bracket to fit properly. If you’re doing this install, be prepared for a bit of muscle work.

Rear Sway Bar Removal: The rear sway bar needs to be removed for this install. I’m not sure if this is specific to the LX or just my particular setup, but none of the videos I referenced showed a rear sway bar, so it was a bit unexpected.

Longer Screw Required: To reattach the rear OEM sway bar, you’ll need a longer screw. Although Dr. KDSS provided two screws, I still had to source my own.

Missing Lug Nut: Oddly enough, Dr. KDSS didn’t provide a lug nut for the OEM Panhard screw, so I had to source my own. Not a huge deal, but worth noting for anyone planning to do this themselves.

Overall, I'm happy with the outcome so far, but I'll report back once I've had a chance to put it through its paces on the road.

Before

View attachment 3698429

After

View attachment 3698430
That is odd. The m10 screws I include have not been an issue with the 570s. I’m not sure what happen there. Also I do include a flanged nut for the main track bar bolt. You are suppose to use the oem bolt at the track bar and the 80mm bolt I include is for the oem bolt location.

If you need me to reimburse you for the bolts and nuts. Please let me know. Sorry I’m rarely on here and just seeing this now.
 
Just did the DRKDSS bolt on version…
I must say initial results are positive.
I also relocated the end links out side the cradle on the front along with a KDSS relocation bracket.. View attachment 3698927
might someone be able to expand on what “relocating the end links outside the cradle on the front” means?
 
Front swaybar endlinks. You mount the endlink on the outside (in front of) the little nook where it's supposed to fit on the LCA, then secure it with a longer bolt and a spacer.

:edit: picture

1733942376391.png
 
Front swaybar endlinks. You mount the endlink on the outside (in front of) the little nook where it's supposed to fit on the LCA, then secure it with a longer bolt and a spacer.

:edit: picture

View attachment 3790750
Does this improve the performance of the swaybar? Or allow for more sway?
 
It just keeps the endlink properly aligned (vertically like stock) when you have a KDSS relocation bracket (which moves the whole swaybar forward 1"). If you don't mount the endlink outside the cradle like that (or another way of saying, if you mount the endlink in the stock location), it will have a steep angle on it which probably does affect the performance of the swaybar some, but also potentially the longevity of the endlink. At least that's the justification people who run it like that use. I haven't tried it since my swaybars still clear the tires just fine (LX)
 
It just keeps the endlink properly aligned (vertically like stock) when you have a KDSS relocation bracket (which moves the whole swaybar forward 1"). If you don't mount the endlink outside the cradle like that (or another way of saying, if you mount the endlink in the stock location), it will have a steep angle on it which probably does affect the performance of the swaybar some, but also potentially the longevity of the endlink. At least that's the justification people who run it like that use. I haven't tried it since my swaybars still clear the tires just fine (LX)

It might bind without with full droop
 
I installed Dr.KDSS for my LX579 which helped with my panard bar angle. Hoping it fixed the drivers side rear axle thrust angle. As advised it did push the axle to the passenger side a bit. To fix I am either going to cut and reweld my bar a bit shorter to pull it back or if someone knows of a shorter /adjustable bar recommendations are welcome. I have only done the sensor lift about 85% of total in rear and running 34s.

I am thinking slightly longer sway bar end links also might be a good idea to relieve some pressure on the sway bar.
 
Anyone install either the Eimkeith or DrKDSS version on an LX with only a sensor lift?
 
Anyone install either the Eimkeith or DrKDSS version on an LX with only a sensor lift?

@highfructose did, documented here.


I'm getting ready to weld on an Eimkeith PCK for my setup. Probably will be a few weekends before it's in. Not so much to correct for the mild 1.25" sensor lift in normal position, but when it's in AHC high that has the suspension over 4" of lift, it should help with better geometry in that use.
 

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