Paint Restoration Process Questions (1 Viewer)

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I'm handy with a welder but when it comes to painting I have no idea what I am doing. In this video this man did a great job on his restoration.

(skip ahead to 3:40 for the painting)

It seems that he takes the metal parts, strips them, and then I want to say that he epoxy primes.

I have done this to my hood and within a month of it being epoxy primed slight rust came out. Does anybody have any advice on how to properly strip and prime the metal components? Does he put rust neutralizer on prior to epoxy priming? How many coats do you think you should put on? Is it ok to leave metal items out in the weather after epoxy priming or do I need to get it painted right away.
 
I have noticed as well that they use por-15 metal prep before priming. Wondering people's thoughts.

Screen Shot 2019-02-12 at 11.59.29 AM.png
 
Something went wrong if the parts rusted after epoxy priming them. Follow the technical data sheets for the products you’re using. They’ll tell you how rough to sand the surface, number and thickness of coats, etc...

You wouldn’t use any “rust neutralizers” with an epoxy because epoxies can’t successfully be applied over rust. You’ll need to get down to bare metal. There’s also no need for POR’s metal prep if you’re down to bare metal and you’ve created the proper surface profile.
 
Something went wrong if the parts rusted after epoxy priming them. Follow the technical data sheets for the products you’re using. They’ll tell you how rough to sand the surface, number and thickness of coats, etc...

You wouldn’t use any “rust neutralizers” with an epoxy because epoxies can’t successfully be applied over rust. You’ll need to get down to bare metal. There’s also no need for POR’s metal prep if you’re down to bare metal and you’ve created the proper surface profile.
What do you mean something went wrong? I'm asusming it was the prep work, but do you mean something more like I mixed the primer wrong? I literally sanded and wire wheeled the hood all weekend before priming. It was pretty damn shiny but there were just like microscopic sections that weren't 100% perfect. I really don't know how to get it to that perfect state without blasting, and my blaster really sucks.
 
Something went wrong if the parts rusted after epoxy priming them. Follow the technical data sheets for the products you’re using. They’ll tell you how rough to sand the surface, number and thickness of coats, etc...

You wouldn’t use any “rust neutralizers” with an epoxy because epoxies can’t successfully be applied over rust. You’ll need to get down to bare metal. There’s also no need for POR’s metal prep if you’re down to bare metal and you’ve created the proper surface profile.

Actually I took a photo! This is what it looked like before I started priming. Did I just not get it down to metal enough? Any suggestions on getting rid of the final rust spots?

IMG_0223.jpeg
 
What do you mean something went wrong? I'm asusming it was the prep work, but do you mean something more like I mixed the primer wrong? I literally sanded and wire wheeled the hood all weekend before priming. It was pretty damn shiny but there were just like microscopic sections that weren't 100% perfect. I really don't know how to get it to that perfect state without blasting, and my blaster really sucks.

Could have been anything. I wasn’t there so I don’t know. But, epoxies don’t allow a panel to rust like that when applied correctly.

Once you have a panel that clean, it’s easy to just give it a quick sweep blast to clean up any hard to get rust spots and create a good profile. Otherwise, you could use a DA sander with some coarse paper to clean things up and create a good profile.
 
My guess would be you didn't get full enough coverage. Epoxy mixes thin and covers good but 3 even coats would be needed to ensure full coverage...especially if you didn't topcoat it.

I've epoxy primed a hood with one coat and it looked like full coverage but after sitting in storage for a few years, there were sections that showed rust where the coverage was thin.
 
Looks like you didn't do enough sanding on the hood. Suck or not a blaster does the best job. Two wet coats at least with the primer.
From experience PPG DP primers are the best.
 
After you strip the parts and remove all the paint you should use rust mort or similar product to treat any rust in the metals pores and use a sealer like epoxy primer. Try to get an epoxy primer with zinc. That will help with rust as well.
 
After you strip the parts and remove all the paint you should use rust mort or similar product to treat any rust in the metals pores and use a sealer like epoxy primer. Try to get an epoxy primer with zinc. That will help with rust as well.

Curt I heard that you aren't meant to put epoxy primers over rust neutralizers such as rust mort like you suggested. Do you have experience using epoxy primer?
 
I believe what @Splangy stated earlier, read data sheet of the primer you're using. You stated you saw area's showing through after one coat. You should let the primer flash (according to your data sheet) then another coat of primer.
 
Wire wheel wont get all the rust out. , rust pitted area look fine after wire wheel , but if you look close you can see little black dots, this is actualy rust. , sand blast is a lot better, it take all the rust out and give a nice grip for epoxy primer as ppg dp90
 
So it seems I need to blast it if I'm going to be epoxy priming.

That’s not true. It’ll give you the best surface prep, but thoroughly sanding the metal is a close second. Either way, leaving any rust behind is a recipe for failure.
 

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