That looks nice. Did you make the dash panel?
What model Autometer gauges are those?
Painless Wiring Harness install on an early FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Pistorman
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What model Autometer gauges are those?
Wonder which bright spark came up with the name "Painless", yeah right?
I de-construct the oem harness and then rebuild or modify where required, that's a lot less "Painful" than a "Painless" harness.
I de-construct the oem harness and then rebuild or modify where required, that's a lot less "Painful" than a "Painless" harness.
A painless harness that is made for the vehicle is truly painless, comes with all the connectors and is plug and play, like for a jeep. But for an fj40 you are just buying a generic harness not made for an fj40.
The gauge panel is MetalTech in Portland, OR. Very minor clearance required at the "hump" in the center, just needs to be a skinnier hump. The gauges are "Z". I used these for the size of the speedo to fit the panel and also because I could get the 80 mph speedo. The kph would be better for down here of course, but those are very limited offerings and were not mechanical. Not sure what a person would use for an adapter in a LC transmission. AutoMeter only offered units for Ford and Chevy as I recalled. Other offerings in mechanical were 120, 160 or 200 mph. In a LC that would amount to a wiggle on the needle at wide open throttle
. Down here a person doesn't drive very fast. The highways, even when good pavement, are prone to surprise speed bumps, roundels, and such. The maximum speed limit is 100kph and I have only seen that in two places for about three miles in length. So driving 40mph is pretty normal for me and that puts the needle straight up on the gauge. I used the AutoMeter sending units and am happy with them. I might someday look at moving the temp sender closer to thermostat for better accuracy, but it is okay as it is. The fuel sender isn't quite as accurate as I would like. However, since I have already cut the arm off, after following instructions and measuring, etc. I can't drop it down into the tank any further. I would suggest that anyone using the universal AutoMeter sending unit perform the measurements and initial setup, however, cut the arm as long as you can and still install. Then put a smear of white grease on the bottom of the float and install, lengthen, install, check, etc. until the smear hits the bottom of the tank. As it is, when I read empty I still have about three gallons, which ain't a bad thing to have.
@Tools R Us link for 3-way connections?
BTW I have a 2012 VORTEC engine in my 1969 FJ40 and I'm also interested in potentially using a painless wiring harness due to the state of the wiring mess that is my rig (new engine with wiring, late 2000's wiring hacks, OEM, missing links, missing switches from dash (not even sure what all might be-), etc.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
This is often said, and in my opinion, not true. My harness was a mess and the new harness completely changed the reliability and nature of the truck. It is a bit of a pain adapting things around the dash and column, but having modern fuses and a clean fuse box is totally worth it. I retained all of the original switches, blinkers etc.
Most old wiring is totally degraded, burned, spliced beyond recognition, but a new harness with every wire labeled., intact and new is a joy to use.
I used Kwik-wire, not painless, but it was a huge upgrade. Highly recommended. I guess if your original harness is mostly ok it makes sense to save it, but mine was junk and went to Coolerman for spare parts.
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This is one of them: Jim S. FJ40 Tuneup
Hi there, I'm slowly (few hours here and there) working my way through a Kwik-wire kit and am currently stuck on the brake lights on my 1969 FJ40. I believe my brake switch works (current going through with multimeter), can get my running/parking lights working, blinkers working (after replacing my turn signal switch per @Coolerman 's advice, but am wondering if the aftermarket Truck-Lite combo lights are the problem? My 1969 also did not have the parking brake switch/indicator, so am wondering if this is somehow integral to the brake lights working?
landcruiserrich
Bench Wheeler
hotwire the two connections going in to the brake switch to see if the lights come on. Chances are your brake switch is not being engaged enough by the pedal or the connection isn't good enough to light up the bulb. If that doesn`t work check your grounds and see if you have voltage at your brake light wire at the bulb end with the brake switch engaged. The switch on the e brake just turns the light on on the dash.
Forgive my newbishness, but how do I accomplish this? (I imagine I could probably hack my way through it, but simple step by step basics of which wires to connect to the switch from where would be helpful.)
Thanks! Thought it might be simple, but that's really simple--will try. If lights light with this technique, then I have some brake-pedal adjusting to do?
landcruiserrich
Bench Wheeler
It might be as simple as adjusting the switch. If its like the one on my 74' the switch screws in to the pedal mount and can be screwed in and out to adjust it.
Thanks all that replied--finally figured out the brake lights! I had spliced the front and rear turn signal wires together when I had had the '74 turn signal switch installed (due to trying to follow the color scheme for wiring), and I had just happened to have plugged them into the front connectors of the '69 switch, once installed (there being two sets of GO and GY wires on the '69 switch), rather than the rear. Once I un-spliced and got them connected correctly, the brake lights, turn signals, and parking lights all worked in sync.
Now, onto reverse lights...
Now, onto reverse lights...
Talk about irony, my reverse lights weren't working because the +/- were reversed! 
In process of rewiring said switch, one of the wires directly connecting to switch broke off due to rust (and too much jiggling)--is it worth it to re-solder, or should I just get a new one? (have you ever fixed a switch this way reliably?)
