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Mar 27, 2003
north of 49
ok, not to get too far ahead of myself, but just as soon as I get the axle back together I need to do some front brake work. The inside pad on the DS has extreme wear (about 1-2 mm left) and the squealer is broken off. Other pads are all down to replacement. Plus my rotors are 29mm and the OEM spec is 30-34mm. This will be a priority once my truck gets out of Riley’s garage.

I will confess to not having done a disc brake job since high school when we somehow blew out a friend's parents brake line on their olds while they were away. The last drums I did were on a vw van 14 years ago. Basically I know nothing.

For new rotors, if I buy american made aftermarket (raybestos, aimco?) am I good? Are there better brands? I have noticed debate in the past here. I can get offshore rotors for $50, but US made aimco rotors are about $145. Is it worth it?

I assume the uneven wear means a sticky caliper? How much work is a rebuild and where is a good site to learn how (the fsm is not helpful and I do not have a way to blow out the pistons)? I could pay $90 for a reman exchange without pads. Also, do I need to replace both calipers or can I just replace the sticky one?

Oh and then there are pads. With new rotors I guess I will go to 100 series pads. My question is, should I use OEM pads or are there decent aftermarket pads?

That leaves brake lines. I am planning a 2.5 inch lift if I ever dig myself out. Is it ok to postpone this for now, or should I do the brake lines while replacing rotors, pads and rebuilding/replacing a caliper?

Seven ? marks in one post. not bad...
I have the Downey rotors front and rear. 1 year and doing good.
I have 80 pads.
Get all of the old brake fluid out of the system. New fluid will make you brake better.
If your going that far get a set of Stainless braided lines in there, easy to slip under the radar if need be. All the calipers I've rebuilt were pretty straight forward. Disassemble, clean, hone bore, re-assemble. I hone using kerosine. Thats a pretty old technique, there might be a more update version now.
I rebuilt the rear brake and it is possable but very time comsuming and a PITA. Then you rip the boot and your screwed.
[quote author=Junk link=board=2;threadid=7998;start=msg67602#msg67602 date=1069729566]

Get 80 series pads from Chag and do it the right way. :slap: :flipoff2: :D
Sorry, Junk
:flipoff2: support the locals here.... what was i thinking?
If it's better then carbon metallics then buy em'.. seriously..

Now is the perfect time to put rotors on it. You are RIGHT THERE.

43512-60090 is the OEM number, they can be had for about 90 bucks a rattle. I wish you had said so sooner. The hub and rotor needs to be removed from the vehicle to install a new rotor and you are there now.
In addition, this would be an excelent time to change to 100 series pads with the new rotors.

We hear you Dan. We didn't know the state of things until we had it apart. I agree that it's the time to switch the 100 pads. The only concern I have on the 100 pads is the squeal factor without the anti-squeal shims.

Any comments on that? Just run without any anti-squeal goop?

Other concern is our ability to rebuild the calipers. After reading the other thread on there about calipers, wouldn't it be better to get Toyo rebuilt calipers? with the 100 pads? I guess not possible with the 100 pads. The caliper are pretty rusty and look like they need a good cleaning ect....

Of course this isn't my truck but I have a verted interest in getting it rolling again. :cheers:


I'm running 100 pads with no shims an no goop. Why do you think the calipers need an overhaul?
Well the DS side pads look like they are wearing uneven (a bit). So I was thinking that it's perhaps sticking but not sure.

Simon is also complaining about it steering (pulling?) funny. So I thought caliper sticking.

He's got 120K?? or more on the dial. I'll go back down and look some more and report back.

Edit (any extra credit for no pad?) - OK on the DS he's got like 1mm on the piston side and 5mm on the other pad. Man I don't think I should let him out of the driveway with it in this state. I've got the 80 pads in "stock" but given the rotors need changing anyway, it would be good to do rotors and 100 pads. Only question in my mind is the calipers. Is that wear delta anything to worry about?

that difference is to much in my opinion. Check to see if something might be hanging up the pads movement. On the rears the guides can get pretty loaded with SSSh*t. The fronts are held in with pins IIRC. Check the pins for rust buildup and easy of movement through the pads. If everything checks out then a caliper/rebuild is in order. Personally if it is the caliper then I'd do both fronts.
I don't want to keep adding more work for you guys, but frankly "rebuilding" the calipers is a laughably easy thing to do. Especially if you have air. Or you can simply pull them off the brake lines and bring them to a shop and ask them to blow the pistons out for you.

Once the pistons are out, you merely clean the caliper up physically (clean where old seals mate, etc), then clean the pistons themselves - possibly needing a light scrubbing if you have faint rust marks using scotchbrite pad. Then, you use the supplied grease (comes with Toyota rebuild kit), install the O rings and seals, then slid the pistons back in. Reconnect the lines. When you're done with the axles, you will then bleed the system, which is a good idea as mentioned earlier. It is not rocket science, and I spent 50% of my time doing it just getting the pistons out (I don't have air, so it was a Rube Goldburg system of wood blocks and my wife pushing on the brakes. Worked miserably, frankly - so take them to a shop).

CDan can get you the Toyota kit I used, which does BOTH front calipers for something south of $30. Is that right Dan? Anyhow, "rebuilding" makes it sound more complex than the simple cleanup and removal/installation of 8 rubber seals per caliper that comprises a brake rebuild....

After picking up my kid from soccer I looked at the calipers and yep, I decided it wasn't rocket science either. The pads are binding on the pins so no wonder they are wearing uneven. Ok, over the Outfitting to discuss air compressors. How much can that be... plus I could use it for other stuff right? ;)

The shop idea sounds good too on second thought. I wonder about rotor shipping costs.... What other tools would we need? I looked for a tech page on brakes but I guess that's too basic to cover on MUD.

So I guess when pulling the calipers, we need to "cap" the ends of the lines to keep them from draining out. Is there a temp plug to use?

Or let it all drain out and replace with fresh fluid?

I know a good old boy from high school that owns a brake shop (honest guy). For sure he'd blow out the pistons for us.
>> Or let it all drain out and replace with fresh fluid? <<

Yes. Use Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid to flush and refill. Approx 2 qts.

While we are on the topic, how do you flush the brake fluid on the LC? I have done it many times on non-ABS cars, but never one with ABS. Are there any special tools needed, or is it still get the wife to push the brake pedal while I open and close the bleeder screws?


riley and simon,
here if you need me for shipping.
>> ... or is it still get the wife to push the brake pedal while I open and close <<
>> the bleeder screws? <<

Yes. There is a specific sequence which I don't remember right now. Search the archives or wait for someone that can recall the sequence. Farthest bleeder from master to nearest then LSPV last as I recall. You can probably search on "bleeder" but you might get a bunch of threads in Chit Chat. :D
Since Simon is planning on replacing his lines with stainless steel at some future date AND we've got enough on the plate so to speak, perhaps we could wait to flush the system and use synth.

Anyway if Simon decides not to drain & flush - is there an easy way to stop the fluid from all draining out? I hearing of clamping the lines but that might stress them.

Any ideas guys? They are coming off tonight.

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