(reman) calipers, rotors and pads (and speedbleeders)?

[landcruiser3DP]

here is my short list of tools but also do red and green arrows look like they are pointing to rotor bolts? i was told to pick up a couple extra rotor bolts in case i don't want to reuse some. or maybe if i can figure out how many i need i will just order all new?(!)

[ ] micrometer to measure pad thickness
[ ] millimeter ruler to measure pad thickness
[ ] coat hangars to hang calipers
[ ] brake bleeder?
[ ] do i need flare tools for a brake job
[ ] wooden plate to hold pistons
[ ] compressed air?
[ ] runout tool to measure rotors?

 

[landcruiser3DP]

@landcruiser3DP Yup. When I rebuild calipers, EVERYTHING gets replaced with new OEM parts, including the bleeders, banjo bolts, anti-squeal shims, yadda, yadda. They're fully loaded with new pads and hardware, ready to install. It is not economical, but my truck stops.

IMO, there's no discernible difference between OEM 80 Series pads and EBC green pads. I stick with OEM, but use what you like. I would never use any bargain priced brake parts, regardless of the cost.

The 100 Series pads are thicker and wider, protrude past the rotor, and don't really fit all that well. They're not going to give you any better stopping power, they just last longer. Since they hang over the edge of the rotor, you can't easily tell how worn they are. I don't use them.

Always properly bed in new pads/rotors/whatever. If you don't know how, look it up.
Brake fluid should be water clear. Smear some grease on the threads of the bleeders to keep them from sucking air back into the system when bleeding.

hey. sorry i already have two responses to your comment and this is a third.
but i think i am correct in saying i am doing front wheel bearings because i am "right there" when i pull the calipers?
but on the rears i could go the rear wheel bearings some other time?
but also what gets replaced in this pic please (i stole it from elsewhere) if i am just doing wheel bearings and not a full knuckle rebuild?
and finally please - is there such a thing as a spindle upgrade like this solid bush (?) when you do a wheel bearing replacement? or would you only do that when you do knuckles?(!)

 

[CharlieS]

broseph, just do the job, you are way overthinking it.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

broseph, just do the job, you are way overthinking it.

it's still a free country charlie.

 

[jonheld]

A. can i buy a new LSPV and put it in?

What's wrong with the existing LSPV? Toyota sells a "rebuild" kit, but it's just the outer rubber parts that tend to wear out. The internals of the LSPV tend to last a long time.

B. any idea why the fiche is telling me the part number i was given doesn't fit my 97? i DO see the part i need in the fiche now that someone showed me an ebay link for this part number but are 3FE and 1FZ FE different in the LSPV department?(!) anyway i will look up the 1997 fiche shown here to see if the part numbers are coming up different?

The LSPV is 47910-60090.

C. do i need any flare tools?

Only if you're making new hard brake lines.

D. what about for wheel bearings. can i use a can of corn or something off the shelf at Whole Foods or Lowe's to drive those?

WTF are you talking about??

E. can i buy the SLEE kit 4X here for all four wheels? or is there a front and back for wheel bearing kits?

Wheel bearings are the same for all 4 corners. The rears don't typically require any other parts other than gaskets. Good PM would be to replace the axle seal after pulling the axle on each side.
For the fronts I replace the thrust washer and lock washer along with gaskets.
If you have factory lockers remember to lock the rear before pulling the axle, and do one side at a time. Drain off some gear oil out of the rear diff before you start or you'll just make a mess.

 

[jonheld]

but i think i am correct in saying i am doing front wheel bearings because i am "right there" when i pull the calipers?

NO. There is no need to go past replacing/rebuilding calipers. You're not going any deeper than pulling the tire and the caliper itself.

but on the rears i could go the rear wheel bearings some other time?

And again, why are you replacing wheel bearings? Is there an issue? Wheel bearings tend to last a long time. They should be periodically repacked with grease and inspected for unusual wear, but that's about it.

is there such a thing as a spindle upgrade like this solid bush (?) when you do a wheel bearing replacement? or would you only do that when you do knuckles?(!)

You're not pulling the spindle when doing wheel bearings. Only the rotating hub/rotor assembly.
Some folks like the roller bearing in the spindle as opposed to the brass bushing. I have no experience with the bearing and the brass bushing has never been an issue for me in the last 30 years. Use what you want when it comes time for a rebuild.

And why are you playing games with calipers and other toys? If the rotors are in question, then replace them. They are consumable parts, not that expensive, and one of the most important parts of the brake system.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

What's wrong with the existing LSPV? Toyota sells a "rebuild" kit, but it's just the outer rubber parts that tend to wear out. The internals of the LSPV tend to last a long time.

The LSPV is 47910-60090.

Only if you're making new hard brake lines.

WTF are you talking about??

Wheel bearings are the same for all 4 corners. The rears don't typically require any other parts other than gaskets. Good PM would be to replace the axle seal after pulling the axle on each side.
For the fronts I replace the thrust washer and lock washer along with gaskets.
If you have factory lockers remember to lock the rear before pulling the axle, and do one side at a time. Drain off some gear oil out of the rear diff before you start or you'll just make a mess.

hey. thanks a ton.
sorry someone suggested replacing the LSPV during a brake job saying it made a tremendous difference. of course a bunch of people on here say to delete the LSPV but i don't plan to.
then someone sent me a timmy the tool man video where he does like brakes and wheel bearings and knuckle rebuild i guess and i looked at it quick.
and he was driving some kind of bearing with a tool so i assumed it was the wheel bearings he was driving in for some reason. but i guess the must have been a spindle bushing or something during a knuckle rebuild. anyway i was kind i making a joke about finding something cheap so i don't have to buy some expensive special tool for this.
1. for front wheel i was told i could/should do front wheel bearings since they are right there after the calipers come off. so i figured if i need a tool to drive them in i should pick one up now. like i have that large socket for knuckle rebuild sitting here and i figure to pick something ii for wheel bearings (or even knuckles as i assume i will do these eventually)?
2. you are saying he cast iron part doesn't need replacing but i can buy a kit of rubber parts and clean it and rebuild it while it is off?
basically it has 225K and the front left is grinding and supposedly there is more wear in rear pads than front pads and everything on each side is uneven.
so i figured i could out a set of calipers in a box to rebuild if i buy new ones and i could also put a set of rotors in there if i buy new ones.
same for LSPV since it would let me get in and get out quicker instead of trying to find time to rebuild things.

 

[jonheld]

he was driving some kind of bearing with a tool so i assumed it was the wheel bearings he was driving in for some reason.

If the wheel bearings are replaced, you need to replace the races as well as they are a matched set. The races need to be driven out/in to the hub. For that I use a set of brass drivers of various sizes and a hammer.

1. for front wheel i was told i could/should do front wheel bearings since they are right there after the calipers come off.

NO. The wheel bearings are NOT "right there" when doing calipers. You would need to remove the drive plates and rotating hub assembly. This generally turns into a MUCH more time consuming job, as those cone washers can be a real PITA if they haven't been removed in a very long time or are damaged.
For the rear, you're dealing with cone washers again, pulling inner axle shafts, and draining diff fluid just to get to the bearings.

i have that large socket for knuckle rebuild sitting here

That large socket (54mm IIRC) is for the lock nuts in the front hub. If you have the one with the notches cut into it, it'll work for the lock nut for the rear as well, once you remove the 2 locking screws.

2. you are saying he cast iron part doesn't need replacing but i can buy a kit of rubber parts and clean it and rebuild it while it is off?

If it needs it, sure. If it doesn't, then leave it alone. Don't **** with things that don't need to be f*cked with.

basically it has 225K and the front left is grinding and supposedly there is more wear in rear pads than front pads and everything on each side is uneven.
so i figured i could out a set of calipers in a box to rebuild if i buy new ones and i could also put a set of rotors in there if i buy new ones.
same for LSPV since it would let me get in and get out quicker instead of trying to find time to rebuild things.

Sure. That's what I do. I have a full set of calipers that are cleaned, powder coated, completely rebuilt with all new hardware, loaded with new pads and ready to drop in. IMO, it's more efficient to swap calipers and rebuild them at my leisure. It's also a good time to flush out all the old brake fluid and cycle the ABS, as the truck will be up on jackstands.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

NO. There is no need to go past replacing/rebuilding calipers. You're not going any deeper than pulling the tire and the caliper itself.

And again, why are you replacing wheel bearings? Is there an issue? Wheel bearings tend to last a long time. They should be periodically repacked with grease and inspected for unusual wear, but that's about it.

You're not pulling the spindle when doing wheel bearings. Only the rotating hub/rotor assembly.
Some folks like the roller bearing in the spindle as opposed to the brass bushing. I have no experience with the bearing and the brass bushing has never been an issue for me in the last 30 years. Use what you want when it comes time for a rebuild.

And why are you playing games with calipers and other toys? If the rotors are in question, then replace them. They are consumable parts, not that expensive, and one of the most important parts of the brake system.

hey! sorry someone suggested viewing the TT video to make sure i could see which parts in the fiche were rotor bolts.
i wanted to buy a couple of these or even replace all of them in case i need them.
this tool is what i was referencing. i guess this is to do all four wheel bearings? in which case i was hoping to buy something or make something for this job.
also can i just ask if "spindle gasket" and "spindle lock washers" are used on a wheel bearing replacement or if they are only for knuckle rebuilds
sorry it's confusing if you haven't done it before and i thought someone said to make sure i have a spindle gasket and spindle lock washer for a wheel bearing replacement.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

If the wheel bearings are replaced, you need to replace the races as well as they are a matched set. The races need to be driven out/in to the hub. For that I use a set of brass drivers of various sizes and a hammer.

NO. The wheel bearings are NOT "right there" when doing calipers. You would need to remove the drive plates and rotating hub assembly. This generally turns into a MUCH more time consuming job, as those cone washers can be a real PITA if they haven't been removed in a very long time or are damaged.
For the rear, you're dealing with cone washers again, pulling inner axle shafts, and draining diff fluid just to get to the bearings.

That large socket (54mm IIRC) is for the lock nuts in the front hub. If you have the one with the notches cut into it, it'll work for the lock nut for the rear as well, once you remove the 2 locking screws.
View attachment 3605055

If it needs it, sure. If it doesn't, then leave it alone. Don't **** with things that don't need to be f*cked with.

Sure. That's what I do. I have a full set of calipers that are cleaned, powder coated, completely rebuilt with all new hardware, loaded with new pads and ready to drop in. IMO, it's more efficient to swap calipers and rebuild them at my leisure. It's also a good time to flush out all the old brake fluid and cycle the ABS, as the truck will be up on jackstands.

ok. got it. i'll leave the wheel bearings alone.
i really appreciate that JH!
before i order can i just bother you or someone for confirming i have the right part for rotor bolts? they must get four for front and four for rear?
i'm thinking to pick up all new bolts as long as i am buying new everything else...

 

[landcruiser3DP]

two more here please Legends
i'm not doing turing with the master cylinder but the brake booster i was planing on buying these four parts. honestly i don't even know if the brake booster - well i guess it's a totally different hydraulic system from the brake fluid?
anyway does it make sense to get these four parts.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

also on LSPV do i just get this 47910-60090? or should i get some other rubber bits?(!)

 

[jonheld]

ok. got it. i'll leave the wheel bearings alone.
i really appreciate that JH!
before i order can i just bother you or someone for confirming i have the right part for rotor bolts? they must get four for front and four for rear?
i'm thinking to pick up all new bolts as long as i am buying new everything else...

View attachment 3605067

View attachment 3605068

Read the FSM. There are no rotor bolts for the rear rotor/drum. You just adjust the handbrake shoes in through the hole in the drum and it comes off. Read the FSM.
Read the FSM. The front brake rotors have 6 bolts that attach it to the rotating hub. 90119-12058 (54ft/lbs). Read the FSM.

 

[ChaseTruck]

So: for what it’s worth, Harbor Freight sells a kit to drive races or seals - seems to work reasonably well. For bearing races, I prefer the dry ice method: cool down the race on dry ice, and it’ll drop right in without any other tools. Yes, one might get condensation on the race, and folks might worry about rust - I don’t.

Anyways. This thread reminds me of an elaborate slalom when you could just straightline it. I suggest to listen to JH and get the darn brakes done. Then worry about something else another day. The “while-I’m-in-there” approach just seems advantageous. Every time I’ve done it, I ended up with serious project creep, and as a result, the truck ended up with a lot more downtime than ultimately necessary. That’s fine if you enjoy wrenching. I actually don’t - I prefer driving.

 

[jonheld]

also on LSPV do i just get this 47910-60090? or should i get some other rubber bits?(!)

My dude, I don't own your truck, I have never been under your truck, I have never seen your truck. If parts need to be replaced, then replace them. If they don't then don't.

 

[jonheld]

For bearing races, I prefer the dry ice method: cool down the race on dry ice, and it’ll drop right in without any other tools. Yes, one might get condensation on the race, and folks might worry about rust - I don’t.

I've never tried that. That sounds like a really good idea. Rust wouldn't be an issue as everything is coated with grease. It would save a good amount of time and effort.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Read the FSM. There are no rotor bolts for the rear rotor/drum. You just adjust the handbrake shoes in through the hole in the drum and it comes off. Read the FSM.
Read the FSM. The front brake rotors have 6 bolts that attach it to the rotating hub. 90119-12058 (54ft/lbs). Read the FSM.

hey. thanks for this.
i think i've got it all here. i printed the charm dot io stuff (somehow it's better laid out than the FSM sometimes) and i plan to to-review it and the FSM here before actually doing any work. the idea was to get a parts order in and tackle all that and a tool tim video and maybe another one.
it's helpful to ask questions and get pro level answers of course. there no parts counters and you can't ask online info. SLEE guys are at a show and it's not really fair to ask them a bunch of OEM parts questions etc etc.
so i was going to get my head around what i need if i want to replace LSPV and service the old one later or something. but also its not totally clear to me what the job entails in the front!
like some guy just said "Remember the front brakes are a tear down of the front hubs." and a couple people have said to do wheel bearings in the front.
and you seem to be saying i am just replacing front calipers and rotors. and i don't even really understand the difference between "just doing wheel bearings" and a "front hub tear down" and a "knuckle rebuild".
so i am trying to get some birds eye explanation on what the job is so i can order parts while i try to study up more.

 

[duece71]

So: for what it’s worth, Harbor Freight sells a kit to drive races or seals - seems to work reasonably well. For bearing races, I prefer the dry ice method: cool down the race on dry ice, and it’ll drop right in without any other tools. Yes, one might get condensation on the race, and folks might worry about rust - I don’t.

Anyways. This thread reminds me of an elaborate slalom when you could just straightline it. I suggest to listen to JH and get the darn brakes done. Then worry about something else another day. The “while-I’m-in-there” approach just seems advantageous. Every time I’ve done it, I ended up with serious project creep, and as a result, the truck ended up with a lot more downtime than ultimately necessary. That’s fine if you enjoy wrenching. I actually don’t - I prefer driving.

Could it be possible to put the races in the freezer instead of the dry ice method?

 

[duece71]

If

hey. thanks for this.
i think i've got it all here. i printed the charm dot io stuff (somehow it's better laid out than the FSM sometimes) and i plan to to-review it and the FSM here before actually doing any work. the idea was to get a parts order in and tackle all that and a tool tim video and maybe another one.
it's helpful to ask questions and get pro level answers of course. there no parts counters and you can't ask online info. SLEE guys are at a show and it's not really fair to ask them a bunch of OEM parts questions etc etc.
so i was going to get my head around what i need if i want to replace LSPV and service the old one later or something. but also its not totally clear to me what the job entails in the front!
like some guy just said "Remember the front brakes are a tear down of the front hubs." and a couple people have said to do wheel bearings in the front.
and you seem to be saying i am just replacing front calipers and rotors. and i don't even really understand the difference between "just doing wheel bearings" and a "front hub tear down" and a "knuckle rebuild".
so i am trying to get some birds eye explanation on what the job is so i can order parts while i try to study up more.

you are doing a knuckle rebuild, check out 2nd gear low on YT. His video is helpful, just need to back it up with the FSM.

 

[jonheld]

and you seem to be saying i am just replacing front calipers and rotors.

The majority of your posts referred to replacing/rebuilding calipers. Calipers are not rotors. It's difficult to sort through your word salad posts to figure out what you actually are trying to accomplish here.

Calipers live on the outside of the hub assembly and require nothing more than removing the wheel. Read the FSM.
If you want to replace rear rotors, nothing beyond removing the wheel and caliper is required. Read the FSM.
If you want to replace front rotors. then you're removing the rotating hub assembly which exposes the front wheel bearings and seals. Read the FSM.

In any case, you shouldn't be relying on "some guy" on the internet. You should be reading the Toyota FSM where everything is explained in agonizing detail.