!OY Coolermans 2/71 Build
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Coolerman
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Not off the planet, just out of the Cruiser loop for a bit. We are planning on building a log home soon and the planning stages are taking weeks and weeks to get everything correct. (This will be the house I die in so it needs to be right. 
)
Plus I have been working on getting the existing home ready to put on the market and that is a LONG list of things needing attention!
I have built several early cowl harnesses (pre 1969) and several rear chassis harnesses during all this, so it's not like I have been doing nothing Cruiser related.
I just don't have the time to surf MUD and work on the web site AND work on !OY like I used to. 
My new shop will be built BEFORE the house is even started so I can move the Cruiser into it's new home and continue working on it there while the house is being built.
So... No updates on !OY at this time...
)Plus I have been working on getting the existing home ready to put on the market and that is a LONG list of things needing attention!
I have built several early cowl harnesses (pre 1969) and several rear chassis harnesses during all this, so it's not like I have been doing nothing Cruiser related.
I just don't have the time to surf MUD and work on the web site AND work on !OY like I used to. My new shop will be built BEFORE the house is even started so I can move the Cruiser into it's new home and continue working on it there while the house is being built.
So... No updates on !OY at this time...
FishNinJay
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Well time for the quarterly update!
I also re-worked the reverse light wiring so I can use the switch on the back of the tranny instead of the 3-sp on the tree wiring it had. I also had to re-work the brake light wiring as I am running the later model lights with separate brake/turn lights. The rear harness also got a ground buss for all the lights and a towing plug. All connectors are Weather-Pak connectors.
Awesome work...
How hard is it to re-work that brake light wiring? I have similar situation. Thinking of converting my 1971 from the round lights to the later model rectangular 3-color lights (with separate brake/turn lights). I emailed SOR about the appropriate rear frame cross member, and the guy said it can't be done because the wiring is different. Really?! It can't be that hard, right?
Also, I have no backup light. Long story, but after much reverse-engineering detective work, I determined it's because when the PO's did a GM steering column conversion and brake work, the new brake booster and brake pedal route too close to the steering column neutral safety switch. So, the NSS was taken out. BUT, there is apparently a linkage type switch that goes on the TH400 transmission linkage that acts as the NSS and would also restore the backup light capability. Does this sound right to you? I'm just not sure how dangerous it is to NOT have the NSS or backup lights working, and how hard this wiring would be.
Coolerman
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Modifying the FJ40 wiring to use the later style rectangular lights is not that hard. I covered that here:Brake Lights
If there is a switch on the tranny that makes connection when the tranny is in reverse then by all means it can be used for the reverse lights.
If you are serious about doing this I could build you a new rear chassis harness from the firewall back. It would have all new connectors for the rear lights, T-case light (if you still have this?) and if you verify the function of the tranny reverse switch I can include a connector for that also. Last, if you sent me the tail light housings I could add Weather Pak connectors to them and the harness.
Figure about $150 for all the above. I would need you existing rear harness to get some measurements off of. I would return it if you wanted it back.
FJ40's never had a neutral safety switch so don't worry about that too much.
Having reverse lights however would probably be a good thing...
You can email me or PM me if interested.
If there is a switch on the tranny that makes connection when the tranny is in reverse then by all means it can be used for the reverse lights.
If you are serious about doing this I could build you a new rear chassis harness from the firewall back. It would have all new connectors for the rear lights, T-case light (if you still have this?) and if you verify the function of the tranny reverse switch I can include a connector for that also. Last, if you sent me the tail light housings I could add Weather Pak connectors to them and the harness.
Figure about $150 for all the above. I would need you existing rear harness to get some measurements off of. I would return it if you wanted it back.
FJ40's never had a neutral safety switch so don't worry about that too much.
Having reverse lights however would probably be a good thing...
You can email me or PM me if interested.
FishNinJay
SILVER Star
Modifying the FJ40 wiring to use the later style rectangular lights is not that hard. I covered that here:Brake Lights
If there is a switch on the tranny that makes connection when the tranny is in reverse then by all means it can be used for the reverse lights.
If you are serious about doing this I could build you a new rear chassis harness from the firewall back. It would have all new connectors for the rear lights, T-case light (if you still have this?) and if you verify the function of the tranny reverse switch I can include a connector for that also. Last, if you sent me the tail light housings I could add Weather Pak connectors to them and the harness.
Figure about $150 for all the above. I would need you existing rear harness to get some measurements off of. I would return it if you wanted it back.
FJ40's never had a neutral safety switch so don't worry about that too much.
Having reverse lights however would probably be a good thing...
You can email me or PM me if interested.
$150 sounds like a smokin' temptin' deal...
I had kind of resigned myself to just go with the stock 1971 round tail lights. I think to go to rectangles, I need to replace the entire rear frame cross member, which I'm having trouble finding. (SOR no longer carries it)
Re. the NSS.
The column is GM, so there is a slot for an NSS.. but the way the PO had to route the brake pedal, and the location of the boost on the other side of the firewall, there's no place to mount an NSS on the column. I have an automatic (TH400), and not overly concerned about the NSS, but agree that the back-up light would be good (altho it's a super dinky backup lamp .. I may add some additional backup lights, and maybe a camp light.. yet another reason to upgrade the rear harness..
)I'm gong to set up an NSS w/ backup on the transmission linkage area.
Do you think this contact is for a backup light? It's on the TH400.
I assume any such contact would be on the trans?
Sorry to clutter your awesome build thread with my newb questions! I'll let you know about the harness by PM.. right now, my electrical is an aftermarket hacked-up bird's nest nightmare.
Coolerman
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There is a company that makes the cross member brand new but I can't remember who it is. Anyone else know who this is?
Here is the link to the cross member swap I did: Rear Cross Member this will give you a good idea of the work involved. It's a lot easier with the body off.
Just did a quick search and it seems the TH400 does not have a switch on the trans itself, but it's built into the column or floor shifter mechanism. The linkage switch you refer to would be the way to go. Just let me know when you are ready to do this. I can interface to that linkage switch easily.
Here is the link to the cross member swap I did: Rear Cross Member this will give you a good idea of the work involved. It's a lot easier with the body off.
Just did a quick search and it seems the TH400 does not have a switch on the trans itself, but it's built into the column or floor shifter mechanism. The linkage switch you refer to would be the way to go. Just let me know when you are ready to do this. I can interface to that linkage switch easily.
looks great can't wait to see it when it's done. Nice job
log home
You defiinitely get points for building the garage/workshop first cooler!
having been through a multi year renovation of my old georgian house in the UK I dont envy you but I hope you will post up a pic or two of that build---I have often dreamed of that myself
Log home on the lake, boat bobbing up and down next to the dock, no going to work, oh yeah.........
best of luck with that
You defiinitely get points for building the garage/workshop first cooler!
having been through a multi year renovation of my old georgian house in the UK I dont envy you but I hope you will post up a pic or two of that build---I have often dreamed of that myself
Log home on the lake, boat bobbing up and down next to the dock, no going to work, oh yeah.........
best of luck with that
Coolerman: I have been depending a lot on you and a very few others on this terrific website, in rebuilding/restoring original my '71 over the these many years. Build your new home and make it right like you have generously helped us make our trucks right....and thanks for a job very well done!
This is the best thread ever! Long live !Oy....
FishNinJay
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Yup Coolerman is the man! Unknowingly has helped me sooooooo much I wish I could help him build his dream house buuuuuuuut I have no money to offer and not even in country. Sorry Coolerman but my thoughts are with you anyway! Enjoy that home you earned it!
Coolerman
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I'm back!
It's been a long time coming but the work on !Oy has recommenced!
The log home build is done, the shop has been emptied of all the stuff that was stored there, I finished up the electrical wiring in the shop, and installed an old wood burner to take the chill off in the winter. I finally feel I can work in my shop!
Current Project: Finishing the min-truck power steering install
I had mounted the mini-truck pump last you heard. It just needs a 11/16 belt to be complete.
That left the mounting of the actual steering box. I had already removed the old box mount and acquired a mount from, hell I don't even remember now but I bolted it up to the existing holes using some spare bolts I had. I'm getting grade 8 12mm bolts this week. Next I used a couple of clamps to temporarily mount it so that the output shaft is centered on the mount. There is about 3/4" I can move it toward the front or rear of the truck if necessary.
Now I had to dig up the 1975 steering column and the old 1971 column mounting brackets. I read a few threads here on MUD about how people installed columns and could not find a single thread on using a 1975 column in a 1971 truck. So... I just started fitting things together and quickly discovered that I would have to cut the square mounting plate off the end of the 75 steering tube. This would also release the firewall mounting bucket that the square piece actually mounts to. I disassembled the column to remove the steering shaft, clamped the tube in a vise and used a hacksaw to cut the tube end off. I cut it off as close to the square piece as possible. I re-assembled the column and put it in the truck.
Everything seems to line up perfectly so something must be horribly wrong!
The old bushing in the end of the column was missing so I added that to me list of things to get from Toyota.
Next I got to thinking I really don't know if the steering tube is too close to the driver. The last pick shows the column covers are about 3 1/4" from the dash. Anyone know if that is correct or close? I only have 3/4 to play with without cutting the rag joint thing off the end of the shaft, cutting out some material, then welding it back together. Surely the dash/column/seat relationship did not change much from 71 to 75?
It's been a long time coming but the work on !Oy has recommenced!
The log home build is done, the shop has been emptied of all the stuff that was stored there, I finished up the electrical wiring in the shop, and installed an old wood burner to take the chill off in the winter. I finally feel I can work in my shop!
Current Project: Finishing the min-truck power steering install
I had mounted the mini-truck pump last you heard. It just needs a 11/16 belt to be complete.
That left the mounting of the actual steering box. I had already removed the old box mount and acquired a mount from, hell I don't even remember now but I bolted it up to the existing holes using some spare bolts I had. I'm getting grade 8 12mm bolts this week. Next I used a couple of clamps to temporarily mount it so that the output shaft is centered on the mount. There is about 3/4" I can move it toward the front or rear of the truck if necessary.
Now I had to dig up the 1975 steering column and the old 1971 column mounting brackets. I read a few threads here on MUD about how people installed columns and could not find a single thread on using a 1975 column in a 1971 truck. So... I just started fitting things together and quickly discovered that I would have to cut the square mounting plate off the end of the 75 steering tube. This would also release the firewall mounting bucket that the square piece actually mounts to. I disassembled the column to remove the steering shaft, clamped the tube in a vise and used a hacksaw to cut the tube end off. I cut it off as close to the square piece as possible. I re-assembled the column and put it in the truck.
Everything seems to line up perfectly so something must be horribly wrong!
The old bushing in the end of the column was missing so I added that to me list of things to get from Toyota.
Next I got to thinking I really don't know if the steering tube is too close to the driver. The last pick shows the column covers are about 3 1/4" from the dash. Anyone know if that is correct or close? I only have 3/4 to play with without cutting the rag joint thing off the end of the shaft, cutting out some material, then welding it back together. Surely the dash/column/seat relationship did not change much from 71 to 75?
Coolerman
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I am currently making a plate for the firewall that the column will mount to. I may just weld it to the column or I may use a design that Miker came up with for his FJ45 build. My fab skills are not that great, so we shall see how that comes out...
myquestoyota
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A very unscientific measurement on my 77 (the pads are in place and the CB is kind of in the way) puts the column cover right at 3" from the steel of the dash. Hope that helps, I hope to do the mini truck soon myself. Good luck!
Coolerman
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Great! I knew that had to be close enough. I can move the box a 1/4" or more to and get a bit more room between the steering wheel and the driver. Stay tuned for more details. I will update my website soon with more detail on what I did...
merbesfield
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Welcome back.
Coolerman
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Pin_Head, are you referring to the steering SHAFT, or steering TUBE, being 3/4 shorter? Either way I think I'm good as I have some adjustment in the box. I'm 6'1 so want as much room as possible between me and that chest compressor...
