!OY Coolermans 2/71 Build

[Coolerman]

I did not have to do any trimming on the side cover to get it to fit? It is/was leaking front/rear/middle everywhere but the top! I got the rear and most of the middle to stop just by slowly tightening the bolts. The front of the side cover is still pouring. What did you have to trim again?

I'm using a rubber gasket and put just a touch of RTV on it.

The spacing on the side cover bolts is terribly wide for how thin the sheet metal is. My idea was to cut some 1/8" plate, drill holes to match the spacing in the cover, use some longer bolts, place where it's leaking the worst, and see if that works. See pic for what I mean.

!Oy is far from being drivable. Now that I have the engine running I'm pulling the chassis out of the garage and putting the body on a small trailer so I can move it in and out to finish the body work. Still a bit of welding to do on the rear tub and front fenders.

 

[apeterson]

I'm using a rubber gasket and put just a touch of RTV on it.

The spacing on the side cover bolts is terribly wide for how thin the sheet metal is. My idea was to cut some 1/8" plate, drill holes to match the spacing in the cover, use some longer bolts, place where it's leaking the worst, and see if that works. See pic for what I mean.

or you could just spend $15 and get the proper cork gasket and be done with it

 

[Coolerman]

So you really think a cork gasket will work better than the rubber one? I have to order some things from CDan, I can add that to the list.

 

[apeterson]

So you really think a cork gasket will work better than the rubber one? I have to order some things from CDan, I can add that to the list.

IMO robber is too easy to over torque in this case.... they are on there at what maybe 10 lb... I cant remember but not much... the first engine builder (who was a D bag, but besides the point) put a rubber one on.. leaked and I have put on 2 different cork ones not with no leaks...

FYI with cork make sure you use FIPG get that from C dan also... you will not be disappointed.... more expensive but good stuff.... no leaks on the first run with my new engine... everything is OEM toyota and OEM FIPG

 

[Coolerman]

Good enough for me! It's on the list.

 

[slickrock]

So you really think a cork gasket will work better than the rubber one? I have to order some things from CDan, I can add that to the list.

I used the cork gasket and it leaked really badly. As you mentioned, the spacing is very far apart for the side cover. It works fine when using the stock cover for some reason, but putting the 2F cover on it, it doesn't seal well.

If you ever take the cover back off, look towards the (as if it was on the engine) bottom left. There is a some sort of thin rectangular box that unless trimmed, it will not allow the cover sit sit flush.

If it is on, take a look and see if it is not sitting flush on the rear bottom corner. If it isn't that is one of your problems.

There is plenty of metal there to drill and tap additional bolts to shrink the distance between the stock bolt location to create a better seal.

You don't need alot, just enough to increase the pressure a bit on the corners and bottom.

 

[Coolerman]

Mine no longer leaks at the left rear corner or middle, just the front right corner.

This the metal you are talking about trimming? Where the PCV valve is?

 

[slickrock]

Mine no longer leaks at the left rear corner or middle, just the front right corner.

This the metal you are talking about trimming? Where the PCV valve is?

YES! That is it. I cannot remember where mine needed to be trimmed unfortunately. I eyeballed it while it was up against the block and trimmed until it sat flat. WHere did you find that picture?

 

[FJ40Jim]

Remember to use a ball peen and a block of wood to beat the bolt holes back out to flush, or a little beyond.

X2 on FIPG and cork gasket.

 

[Coolerman]

Yeah I beat them back out the first time. I should be getting good at it now.

The pic came from my collection. It's my actual side cover about to be put in the de-rust tank....

 

[Coolerman]

Well time for the quarterly update!

I have been mucho busy building wire harnesses. !Oy is being neglected mechanically, but this past weekend I actually got his wire harness complete and am about to start taping it back up!

Here is what has been done to my harness:

1. Moved alternator/regulator to passenger side.
2. Added separate grounds to all front/rear lights that did not have them.
3. Removed OEM fuse panel and added a new 24 fuse panel with three power feeds. 12 fuses always hot, 8 fuses fed from a key switched 30 amp relay, and 4 fuses fed from the ACC position of the key switch. This new panel is located on the drivers side cowl area above the kick vent. It uses ATC blade fuses.

Added the following circuits:

1. Fused hot feed to drivers side fender wiring for future device.
2. Fused hot feed to passenger side fender wiring for future device.
3. Fused Fog Light circuit complete with switch wiring.
4. Fused spare circuit to center dash for future device.
5. Fused Rock Light circuit complete with switch wiring.
6. Aux water temp and oil pressure gauge wiring with OEM style harness plug. Plug includes sensors, +12V feed and ground and wire to meter light circuit.
7. Door switch wiring for dome light. I will mount door switches somewhere...
8. Fused Radio/stereo circuit off the ACC fuse section.
9. Fused circuit running to the rear of the truck for a power port off the ACC.
10. The OEM in-line hazard fuse was moved to the new fuse panel.
11. Ran a new FUSED ignition circuit to power the FJ60 ignition system now on the passenger side fender. This circuit also powers the idle solenoid.
12. Modified the wiring to accept a 1975 steering column with the dimmer and turn signal switch built in. This meant running several new wires and extending the bullet connectors for the turn switch.
13. Added a tach wire from the FJ60 ignition to the dash area for a tach and ran +12V, meter lights and ground here also. Tach will just 'plug in' to the harness.

I moved the alternator to the passenger side using a 2F alternator bracket and plan to run a later model Toyota alternator or possibly a 12SI. Since both of these alternators put out a lot more than the 35 amp stock one does, I needed a larger charge wire so I removed the existing 10 ga wire completely.

I replaced the OEM 10 ga wire with a FUSED 8ga wire. A 40 amp mega fuse at the alternator protects the fuse block feed and a second 40 amp mega fuse at the starter terminal protects the battery charge leg.

I also re-worked the reverse light wiring so I can use the switch on the back of the tranny instead of the 3-sp on the tree wiring it had. I also had to re-work the brake light wiring as I am running the later model lights with separate brake/turn lights. The rear harness also got a ground buss for all the lights and a towing plug. All connectors are Weather-Pak connectors.

Pics of wiring often don't make a whole lot of sense, but here they are.

 

[merbesfield]

Awesome

 

[Coolerman]

Thanks merbesfield, I'll be calling you here in a bit.

In case anyone is wondering about the blue tape wrapped square around the fuse panel. That is a ugly ass metal panel I cut out of 16ga then welded on some 6mm x 1.0 nuts to mount it with. I had just powder coated it and did not want it to get scratched while testing all the wires and mounting.

 

[Rick '79 FJ40]

Well time for the quarterly update!

I have been mucho busy building wire harnesses. !Oy is being neglected mechanically, but this past weekend I actually got his wire harness complete and am about to start taping it back up!

Here is what has been done to my harness:

Pics of wiring often don't make a whole lot of sense, but here they are.

Nice job! I was thinking it would be worthwhile for someone to produce new harnesses, but this goes the extra mile!

I am about to upgrade my headlights to Halogen bulbs and I was wondering if the 14Ga wire you have is larger than the original wire and whether it would be large enough to use for my new halogen headlights? (I think they are 55 watts each) I will be putting in a relay and feeding the light side of the relay directly from the battery. I have everything I need except the wire. I was hoping to use OEM color-coded wiring for this, but if 14Ga isn't large enough, I may have to use another wire color.

Thanks in advance for the info. Keep up the good work!

 

[Coolerman]

Rick,
14ga wire will easily carry the current for two 55 watt headlights. That works out to be about 8 amps total or 3.9 amps per light.

Are you using a relay for each light? If so the 14ga is perfect.

Mark aka Coolerman

Nice job! I was thinking it would be worthwhile for someone to produce new harnesses, but this goes the extra mile!

I am about to upgrade my headlights to Halogen bulbs and I was wondering if the 14Ga wire you have is larger than the original wire and whether it would be large enough to use for my new halogen headlights? (I think they are 55 watts each) I will be putting in a relay and feeding the light side of the relay directly from the battery. I have everything I need except the wire. I was hoping to use OEM color-coded wiring for this, but if 14Ga isn't large enough, I may have to use another wire color.

Thanks in advance for the info. Keep up the good work!

 

[Rick '79 FJ40]

I think there is a relay for the low beam pair and a relay for the high beam pair. I bought the stuff from Daniel Stern Lighting a while back, but haven't installed it yet because I was looking for the wire...

If you aren't familiar with them, here's a link: Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

Now I just need to look up what colors I need and I'll place an order with you.

Thanks!

 

[Coolerman]

Red/Yellow is the high beam and Red/Green is the low beam. White/Black of course is ground.

 

[jgray]

Awesome work... You are the man... I've found your documentation very helpful as I've continued to work on my 73... Definitely inspiring seeing everything you've done to OY!

 

[Rick '79 FJ40]

Red/Yellow is the high beam and Red/Green is the low beam. White/Black of course is ground.

Thanks! I'll probably want enough to have some extra, maybe 30 feet of each? I'll PM you to get the details...

Thanks again!

 

[bsmith123]

looking good

hey looks good!