Fourrunner
SILVER Star
Does it get hot sitting in traffic as well? If not, I would rule out the fan clutch. I still agree that OEM is the best, but doesn't sound like a fan clutch issue since getting hot on highway driving.
overheating mystery! FRUSTRATED!!!!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BlueBoxFJ60
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
only gets hot on highway cools down once i stop or get into town traffic
overheating
I had the same problem. I agree the OEM fan clutch is a must. If you are not puking into the overflow you might not be overheating. Have you changed the temp gauge sensor? My problem was that the aftermarket radiator that had been installed was a three row not a four row radiator. I order a new radiator and made sure it was a four row and no problem.
I would like to put a mechanic gauge in my new A pillar pod but whare would I mount the sender?
I had the same problem. I agree the OEM fan clutch is a must. If you are not puking into the overflow you might not be overheating. Have you changed the temp gauge sensor? My problem was that the aftermarket radiator that had been installed was a three row not a four row radiator. I order a new radiator and made sure it was a four row and no problem.
I would like to put a mechanic gauge in my new A pillar pod but whare would I mount the sender?
Duane
IH8MUD Wookie
I can double the support for a Raytec temperature gun, then you can go in a series from one device to another to see what the temperatures are, hopefully finding the change/improperly functioning area.
Going back to the beginning, a water pump was replaced because it went out? as in it started leaking or what?
The thermostat that was replaced is it the same spec and same size as in can it open in the existing housing and gasket.. is it installed correct side up?
The air pockets/properly bled system can be a challenge sometimes and a simple solution.
Going back to the beginning, a water pump was replaced because it went out? as in it started leaking or what?
The thermostat that was replaced is it the same spec and same size as in can it open in the existing housing and gasket.. is it installed correct side up?
The air pockets/properly bled system can be a challenge sometimes and a simple solution.
60wag
SILVER Star
Maybe you have a minor restriction in the rad that is causing the lower hose to collapse at higher rpm. Is the lower hose old and really soft? Try a new lower hose or even one that has the spring inside it.
Duane
IH8MUD Wookie
Hey BlueBoxFJ60 did you ever resolve the overheating issue?
Just wondering what the problem ended up being?
Just wondering what the problem ended up being?
- Thread starter
- #28
still unsolved
it was at a toyota land cruiser specialist in houston for a month and he could not figure it out.
Now its at Fred Haas toyota where 2 mechanics that have worked on toyota for 30 years are lookin at it.
You name it it has been done.
still unsolved and very very frustrated(its my dd, my whole summer break i havent had any wheels)
will sell once, if ever solved.
it was at a toyota land cruiser specialist in houston for a month and he could not figure it out.
Now its at Fred Haas toyota where 2 mechanics that have worked on toyota for 30 years are lookin at it.
You name it it has been done.
still unsolved and very very frustrated(its my dd, my whole summer break i havent had any wheels)
will sell once, if ever solved.
Wile E Coyote
Out in the streets, they call it murder!
I'll have a stab at it.........
Do our Cruisers have that large spring in the lower rad hose to prevent hose 'suck in' during high rpm operation? If the hose does suck in, it seriously hampers flow. Not a problem at lower rpms, as WP flow is lower, of course. If so, and you deleted it in your first repair, then??????
Many folks will say this isn't necessary, and I have removed 'em before with no ill effect (my Dodge) but it seems all other rocks have been overturned.
Do our Cruisers have that large spring in the lower rad hose to prevent hose 'suck in' during high rpm operation? If the hose does suck in, it seriously hampers flow. Not a problem at lower rpms, as WP flow is lower, of course. If so, and you deleted it in your first repair, then??????
Many folks will say this isn't necessary, and I have removed 'em before with no ill effect (my Dodge) but it seems all other rocks have been overturned.
I had the exact same problem with my cruiser. It would run great around town but on the highway it would overheat within a few miles.
My solution turned out to be the intake gasket was leaking. It was running lean and causing the motor to run hot. Everything I didn't would help a little but never make it go away until I found the intake gasket leaking severely. I also had a rough idle too, I had a misfire at idle.
Make sure your intake isn't leaking.
Brian
My solution turned out to be the intake gasket was leaking. It was running lean and causing the motor to run hot. Everything I didn't would help a little but never make it go away until I found the intake gasket leaking severely. I also had a rough idle too, I had a misfire at idle.
Make sure your intake isn't leaking.
Brian
Maybe I'm saying something stupid, but are you sure you don't have trouble with your ignition ?
Is your advance correct ? It can cause overheating at high rpm without any relation with the water pump change.
Otherwise, I had this trouble on Caterpillar 3306 diesel engine: cylinder head cracked and crack opening only at high rpm during a long time. Very, very hard to diagnose, even for the Cat serviceman...
Is your advance correct ? It can cause overheating at high rpm without any relation with the water pump change.
Otherwise, I had this trouble on Caterpillar 3306 diesel engine: cylinder head cracked and crack opening only at high rpm during a long time. Very, very hard to diagnose, even for the Cat serviceman...
- Thread starter
- #32
all 3 of the recent posts and all the recommendations have been done.
nothing.
newest idea is that when the water pump went out and i overheated the block got hot enough to loosen up some corrosion or crud and has slightly clogged a port some where.
goin to try to flush the block as best as possible.
nothing.
newest idea is that when the water pump went out and i overheated the block got hot enough to loosen up some corrosion or crud and has slightly clogged a port some where.
goin to try to flush the block as best as possible.
I have a similar issue. The only thing is that my gauge tells me that my temperature is close to red. I just had the engine rebuilt. Replaced or rebuilt everything that needed it.
After a day of driving around it was still up under the red mark.
Took it back to the mechanic. Checked the entire engine temp (top, bottom, left and right side) it's running under 190 which I'm told is normal. It's frustrating after spending all that money in the rebuild.
I'm going to have an electrical specialist check my gauge and possibly replace the unit.
Any other suggestions out there will be helpful.
After a day of driving around it was still up under the red mark.
Took it back to the mechanic. Checked the entire engine temp (top, bottom, left and right side) it's running under 190 which I'm told is normal. It's frustrating after spending all that money in the rebuild.
I'm going to have an electrical specialist check my gauge and possibly replace the unit.
Any other suggestions out there will be helpful.
- Thread starter
- #34
i did have my gauges checked and sending units replaced
Have you tested the radiator, you stated it was removed and rodded out and re-sealed, maybe this was not done correctly, can you borrow another known working radiator to install for a baseline.
ill double the lower rad hose if not changed then do it. also like said above an intake leake could do it too causing the truck to work harder to stay running at higher RPM (like on the freeway) even if at the higher rpm it may feel like its running smoother. and sometimes at lower RPMs' it still may not have a bad miss.
how does the truck run? WIll it idle smoothly at 750 RPM? also sometimes a good carb adjustment will help lots but not nearly as likely in this particular case.
how does the truck run? WIll it idle smoothly at 750 RPM? also sometimes a good carb adjustment will help lots but not nearly as likely in this particular case.
- Thread starter
- #37
i have tried 3 lightly used radiators all wiht the same results. I am installing a brand new one this weekend.
The intake/exhaust gaskets have be replaced and checked for leaks.
Every thing works fine until i drive over 50miles then it overheats.
The intake/exhaust gaskets have be replaced and checked for leaks.
Every thing works fine until i drive over 50miles then it overheats.
Lots of different experiences out there with overheating. Mine was solved by replacing the radiator core. Years of build up took it's toll. Rodding out may not be as rigorous a solution as a core replacement. Good luck.
I've got a buddy that has a very similar issue, although his truck is a JDM HJ61 with the 12HT engine. The rad cap died on him, and overheated the engine a bit, replaced it, he also replaced the thermostat. Then it started overheating again and he replaced the fan and clutch from the parts truck (the original was actually dead). Now in the process of troubleshooting stuff we found a small hole in the rad and it's getting re-built. If I come across anything else I'll post it up. In the mean time I wish you all the best of luck and look forward to hearing your solution.
Im not sure if its been mentioned but were BOTH seals fitted when the thermostat went in?
