Out with the Semi-Old A440-In with the H55

[pismo62]

Spook--I'll shoot one tonight of the set-up. I have the master cylinder in and the line ready, I'm waiting tell I get the tranny in to know exactly where the line needs to stop. I think you're right on the oiler.

 

[pismo62]

Did some work today:

Here is a shot of the throw out bearing and clutch fork. I wanted to make sure I knew how this all goes together before i put the bellhousing back in.

The second shot show the finished the Master cylinder line. I ended the line on the firewall and put in a L bracket to accomadate the braided line and fasterner. This area is very close to the starter, so make sure you have clearance by trying it in with the bell housing and starter, before you screw it into the firewall.

Here's a shot of the bellhousing and flywheel. If you are new at this you will find out that the bellhousing and clutch assemble needs to be put in before the tranny. Originally I thought you could put the clutch in and then put the bellhousing, tranny and TC in together. The reason is that the bolts for the bellhousing are behind the flywheel, so after the flywheel is in you can not fit in the bellhousing. Thus, bellhousing, clutch and then tranny. For experianced wrenchers this is a no brainer, but for shady tree mechanics this is all new.

Notes:

1. If you have your existing flywheel, make sure you mark where TDC (for timing) is or you will have to go through the process of re-finding it. I forgot and spent a couple hours finding it again.

2.the rear engine seal was a pain. Getting it out and getting the new one in.

 

[Spook50]

Did you end up fabbing your own hard line and ordering an aftermarket braided line?

Have you figured out what do do about adapting the NSS to the clutch and the reverse light switch?

 

[Godwin]

I cleaned up the bell housing and tried it in. I'm using a 84 housing, It fit right up to the engine, i had read that it needs to be adjusted but I didn't run into needing to grind anything.

I did run into a snag on the bell housing inspection cover. I doesn't seem to fit up to the housing properly. The bottom looks to seal up but the part that mates up to the back of the engine has alot of space. Maybe that's how it supposed to fit, but i'm thinking not. Suggestions??? I put a picture of it on the post.

Ever get this sorted out? Inspection covers are BH specific. A 3F BH inspection cover will not work on a pre-3F BH nor will a 3F inspection cover work on a pre-3F BH.

 

[pismo62]

Spook--The guy I got the parts from sent me his used hard line, so I used that and it goes to the L bracket then attaches to the aftermarket braided line. You do need to cut and flare the line.(easy to do) or you can make up your own line. I'll get a picture of it. I'm saving the switches until after i get the tranny in.

Godwin--It seems in 84 there were 2 2F sizes of bellhousings produced. I had the wrong size inspection cover. The guy at SOR hooked me up with the right one. Fit right up.

 

[pismo62]

Here are two shots of the Master cylinder line to the slave cylinder, and one of the clutch secured in place. I marked in red the path of the line--the real line is the silver one right behind it.

Next; stab in the tranny.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Looking great. I can't wait to get started on this!

 

[Spook50]

Slick!

Did you use any threadlocker on the flywheel or pressure plate bolts?

 

[pismo62]

I was able to get the tranny in yesterday. This is definatly a two man job. I had the tranny/TC on a table jack with a wooden cradle. i did have to jack the truck up to get it under the frame. My buddy and I spent about an hour positioning and pushing/pulling until it was close enough to get one of the bolts in. One item that has to be lined up is the shift fork and throw out bearing, we were able to get those items lined up. After that I pulled the table jack and keep a bottle jack on the TC. This allowed me to pivot the unit and get the other holes lined up. The lst inch or so had to be cinched with the bolts, we couldn't get it to approximate by pushing on it. Wow, slightly excited that step is done. Then put the crossmember on. I'm glad I fitted that deal earlier, made that step a snap.

Now it's time to start putting everything else back together. The 4wd shifter linkage I cut and welded, took about 4 1/2 inches out of it.

Getting close to drivable. Tomarrow I will pick up the drive shafts and put them in and hopefully have it done this weekend.

Spook--i put locktight on almost everything.

 

[Rusty Pig]

Nice progress! Can you post some pics of how you attached the cross-member mounting points to the frame?

 

[pismo62]

Rusty Pig--I welded them to the frame. I didn't shoot a close up because the welds look terrible, plus you can't get a grinder in there to clean them up, without hitting some tubing. I'm proud of doing some of the best worst welds around.

 

[Rusty Pig]

Awww, don't be so welding-shy You've earned much respect with this conversion and I, for one, think you walk on water for doing such a good job of documenting this. Shortly after you stared this thread (and also fantastic timing of my t-case going out) I'm in the middle of this same conversion. My auto and t-case came out this morning and the t-case is heading up to Georg at Valley Hybids for a re-build and manual conversion. New tranny is ordered and I've got a great stash of 1987 parts from Devoretex (Simon). This thread has helped me out tremendously in identifying the parts needed and some of the challenges associated with this swap. I can't thank you enough, but if you are ever in SoCal is on me.

 

[pismo62]

It's a deal

 

[pismo62]

I got the shifters in. I wanted to start the truck up at this point so i wired the Nuetral safety switch bypass. I'm deciffering the wiring and will post up what needs to be done for this, tonight. The engine sputterd and wouldn't start, then I relized I needed to rehook up the O2 sensor, which I unhooked because it goes right across the tranny. Then it started up. It a bit noisy because the exhaust is open. I went through the gears and 4wd with no drive shafts on, i watched this through the tranny cover area. Everything appears to work. I pick up the drive shafts today. Getting very close to finishing.

Note: I have the new Die Hard Platinum battery-- I listen to the radio for several night and though it would need to be jumped to start it up. It cranked right over. Excellent battery

 

[Slowerthanu]

Have you Desmogged your 3FE?

I'm excited to hear about the performance and increase in fuel mileage.

 

[pismo62]

No mine is smog legal, I'm in Ca.
I'm interested in the milage increase, I was monitoring it pretty closely with the auto. I'm hoping for a extra mile or two per gallon, it may be wishful thinking.

 

[Godwin]

Have you Desmogged your 3FE?

I'm excited to hear about the performance and increase in fuel mileage.

The difference in performance will be very noticeable, but don't expect a huge increase in fuel mileage. This is still a heavy, boxy Cruiser plus the new-found joy of running through the gears will offset any fuel mileage improvement .

 

[pismo62]

Wires are done. This took some reading of old posts and figuring out. I tryed to make it as simple as possible. By doing the re-wiring you are doing 2 things: 1. By-passing the nuetral safety switch,(the truck won't start unless the Nuetral safty switch is by passed). 2 wiring the reverse light.

So, You need to look at the auto tranny on the side. there are 3 connectors; one near the rear and 2 near the front, each has wires that were connected that need to be re-connected. Archtimb had a good write-up on the process. Mine was slightly different I think because i decided to get rid of the connectors, so the wire colors are pre-connector. I decided I wanted less connectors hanging off the harness. I high-lighted in red the differences in wire colors on mine, on the write-up below.


Originally Posted by archtimb
This is for a H55 install.

Near the PS firewall are the electric connectors for your tranny & transfer. The transfer connections stay the same. We are dealing with the two round connectors for the tranny, one white, one blue. (Mine were both grey)

When your A440F is out, you will have an unused connection (on the wire harness) at the tranny for the AT temp. sensor. This connector will plug into the reverse switch connection on your new H55! This contains a yellow/red and a yellow/green wire.

Now comes the magic. You need to open the harness of your tranny connection where the two round connectors are. On the blue connector,(3 wire connector) cut and solder the two heavy gauge wires together (white & black)(Black/white and Black/red). This will jump out your NSS. Now would be a good time to install a NSS kill switch (hint, hint). Place a switch between the white & black and you will be able to select when your starter will work!

The light gauge black wire(blue) in the blue connector (3 wire connector) is one side of your reverse lights. Cut this and solder it to the the yellow/red wire going to the old AT temp sensor.

On the white connector,(2 wire) cut the blue wire and solder this to the yellow/green wire going to the old AT temp sensor.
Cut and cap the red (yellow/blue) wire on the white connector.
Done.


The pictures show:

1. The wire harness plug that connects to the Reverse Switch
2 The connectors and which wires you will use and cut.
3. The wires cut and connected before I closed up the loom and sealed it.

 

[pismo62]

Got the re-worked drive shafts on tonight and took her for a drive. The shafts were modified 6 inches, new u-joints and balanced. Everything works. The exhaust pipe is missing so it's really noisy, I'll get that fixed tomarrow.

I did notice that the steering if extremely tight, I'll have to re-check it.

 

[Spook50]

Got the re-worked drive shafts on tonight and took her for a drive. The shafts were modified 6 inches, new u-joints and balanced. Everything works. The exhaust pipe is missing so it's really noisy, I'll get that fixed tomarrow.

I did notice that the steering if extremely tight, I'll have to re-check it.

I have a feeling that wiring will be alot easier to grasp once I'm looking at it. If time allows, I'm going to wire one of these to be used in the NSS circuit. I figure that'll give me a great option for a little homebrew security.

If you don't mind my asking, how much did it cost to have your driveshafts done up? I can't remember if the stuff I'm getting comes with the right driveshafts or not, so if I can't easily find a late pair of 60 series shafts, I'll have mine modified and balanced.