Out with the Semi-Old A440-In with the H55

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It is fairly straight forward. Get a 60 shift plate. Crossmember from a 60 (later are 4 bolts per side), angle iron welded to the frame as a mount for the crossmember. Welded in a patch to cover the A440 shift hole.

The pedal bucket is the hardest part. Redrilling the mount holes and the details.

Stock rear 60 DS may fit without mods, mine was about 3/4" too long.
 
I started working on the pedal bucket this AM. I drilled the holes and went to put it in and the holes on the 84' bucket don't line up with the 89' pre-marked holes for the bolts on the firewall. I not sure which year the holes line up, probable 86 and up. Well easy enough to re-drill. Tryed it in and then spent some time cleaning up the bucket and painting it.

I also added a picture of the two pedal buckets.
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Got the bucket in and bolted up.:cheers:

Now it's time to clean up under the dash, and put it back together, along with the pedals and steering column.

So far this hasn't been too difficult but fairly time consuming. WIth the extra hours of sunlight it works out well.
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Tony, where'd you get your gear? I could use one too

I bought my gear from Specter Off Road. They have them on an overstock sale and they have a sale that starts June 18 I think. I have had really great service dealing with them.

Tony
 
AFAIK, the transfer case housings are the same i.e. bolt patterns between the A440 and H55, which would leave me to believe that the idler change wouldn't impact anything. So you should be able to use a 38mm case behind any box that had a split case. I know you can't swap around gears internally. I could be out to lunch, I don't know for sure the output spline counts of all the trannys, for instance H42, H41, H55 and A440. I'm bolting a t-case from an HJ60 auto onto a H55, but I could have used my FJ62 one as well, just need the oiler and different bolt lengths. The reason I'm using the HJ t-case is for it's lower low range gears (2.3)?

Phil

Be careful about which t-case fits which tranny. While the bolt patterns are the same and the differences are internal. The main problem comes with the differences of the bearing configuration on the back of the transmission. Early splitcases will not fit an A440 or an H55. There is a difference with the surface of the t-case that bolts to the tranny. And yes I do believe spline counts are the same.

What are you calling the "oiler"? Do you mean the little plastic funnel that clips into the back of the t-case? By the way, there is no provision in the casting of an early t-case for this thing.

As long as the t-case comes off a tranny with the adapter plate it will fit an A440 or an H55.

You might want to check but I don't think the HJ has a lower ratio. Some H55's were actually bolted to a t-case with a 1.9 low range. The t-case off your 62 does have a 2.2 something low range. There is a gear chart somewhere here on mud that lists the ratio's.

Tony
 
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I'm loving this thread. I'm very curious to see what you do as far as the crossmember and mounting brackets, and changing the transmission hump skin panel to accomodate the manual shifter. From the looks of it it's not as simple as just a bolt-in swap for that. Hopefully I'm wrong and the hole for the A440F's shifter can just be capped with a ghetto-fabbed gasket and steel sheet cut to fit.

Spook

You will find some good pics of the crossmember in the build thread in my sig line. I used a 1982 crossmember from my original BJ frame on my 62 frame. Newer crossmembers are similar to the 62 style just in a different location. The older style crossmember only requires you to drill 8 holes.

Great pics Guy, not enough people do that

Tony
 
Spook

You will find some good pics of the crossmember in the build thread in my sig line. I used a 1982 crossmember from my original BJ frame on my 62 frame. Newer crossmembers are similar to the 62 style just in a different location. The older style crossmember only requires you to drill 8 holes.

Great pics Guy, not enough people do that

Tony

Cool, I'll have to take a look when I'm off work this morning. Looks like this thread is going to be FAQ material if it isn't already. I'll plan on augmenting it with my own experiences when I get around to doing the swap on my 62.
 
Thanks for the clarification Tony, I'm sure this will help Charles. Sometimes I just dive right into threads. Your right about the 2H t-case according to Mullens FAQ. I'm sure somewhere on Mud I gleamed the 2H auto t-case gear ratios. I thought the auto's had a 1.9 ratio, maybe (probably) not. I will have access to a 2H auto and 2H H55 soon c/w t-cases soon, I'll verify then. I must say Tony, you are a wealth of info, we need to go wheelin' :beer:
 
So it sounds like if the front section of the transfer case is kept with the tranny that it originally came with then the gears can be swapped as desired assuming the idler shafts are compatible?

The fellow that helped me out down in Phoenix has Mark's low range gears in his transfer case behind an A440 and he'd like to move these gears over to the t-case behind the H55 I brought down for him (both cases have the larger 38mm idler).
 
So it sounds like if the front section of the transfer case is kept with the tranny that it originally came with then the gears can be swapped as desired assuming the idler shafts are compatible?

The fellow that helped me out down in Phoenix has Mark's low range gears in his transfer case behind an A440 and he'd like to move these gears over to the t-case behind the H55 I brought down for him (both cases have the larger 38mm idler).

The A440 and the H55 use the same t-case so it will all swap right over. Some minor changes are required to change over to manual shift if you go that way. The holes that hold sensors for the auto need to be plugged and you need to drill and tap a hole for the detent for the 2wd/4wd shift rod. (The pilot hole is already cast into the case.) The rod is one part that you can swap from an older non vacuum shift t-case. The other part I snagged from my old t-case was the shift rod for the hi low neutral. On the auto it points the wrong direction. You just can't mix and match gears between old style and newer style transfer cases.

If you want more info send me an email so we don't hijack Pismo62's thread. Or if you will be at Cruiser Daze I can talk to you there.

Tony
 
Well I got the the pedals in and the dash back together. I took it slow, cleaning up under the dash and routing all the wires properly from the stereo and resealing the vent tubing with window foam tape. She's starting took look like her old self again.

One thing I noticed was the clutch pedal sat very close to the brake pedal. I put a bit of a S bend to it and that seems to take care of it.

Next is pulling the tranasfer case apart. Then waiting for the tranny. My wife is down south so she is heading by man-a-fre to pick it up.

If anyone knows a better deal, I'm all ears. I was talking to PismoJim today and he mentioned and guy back east cruiser drew with free shipping and a good deal but I couldn't find it??

Now to my other project, laying a brick patio.
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Guy, you might want to look at snagging a brake pedal from a 60. It's square shaped, like the clutch, which will help reduce inadvertent dynamiting of the brake pedal if you go to ram the clutch in real quick.
 
Spook50, I'm ok with the distance between pedals after I bent the clutch pedal out. But initially it was very cose.
 
It's going to be a safety thing, and as soon as you do it the first time you'll at least break out the grinder and widen that gap. May as well make it right at first and not have it in the back of your mind?
 
Just cut your break pedal down to the same size as the clutch. The rubber pads are the same for both pedals on the 60.


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
All the parts are ordered for the H55 install. I'll be picking them up from Man-A-Fre on friday.

I'll be cutting down the Brake pedal also.

Thanks for all the advice guys.
 
Looking forward to further updates and more pics. I'm really curious to see how you end up doing the crossmember changes. Checking this thread is usually the highlight of my day when I'm here :D
 
Picked up some parts form Man-A-Fre the other day. Tranny and clutch parts.

I cut down the brake pedal and put the new pads on the pedals.

I removed the tranny cooler lines. This is a little tough. The fitting to the radiator on the driver side is very difficult to unbolt unless you pull the radiator. I decided I'm going to plug the line, until someday the radiator needs to be redone. The other line has easy axcess, and can be removed and pluged.

I cleaned up the bell housing and tried it in. I'm using a 84 housing, It fit right up to the engine, i had read that it needs to be adjusted but I didn't run into needing to grind anything.

I did run into a snag on the bell housing inspection cover. I doesn't seem to fit up to the housing properly. The bottom looks to seal up but the part that mates up to the back of the engine has alot of space. Maybe that's how it supposed to fit, but i'm thinking not. Suggestions??? :confused:I put a picture of it on the post.

I started to take apart the transfer case but don't have the right size sockets, they're big 32,34,36. I need the socket for the companion flange and the output shaft lock nut. :wrench:

The project continues on. :)
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