- Thread starter
- #21
I'd like to try to do it with out removing the dash. My thoughts are the more I remove the more cracked pieces I will have to replace.
Out with the Semi-Old A440-In with the H55
- Thread starter pismo62
- Start date
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Dash is not that hard to pull out and you should be able to do it without adding to the cracks. The underlying base of the dash is formed sheetmetal, overlying that is the foam core, then the outer plastic cover.
Love this swap. I wouldn't mind taking an early 62 and doing this swap.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I'm so glad that my clutch pedal was way more easy to fit ... ( 80 series manual tranny swap ) I just timply hate dealing with the dash !
- Thread starter
- #25
If I pull the dash don't I still have to pull the wiring looms. There's a big one right on top of the steering column?
Nope, dash comes out quite easily, I think four 10mm nuts and a couple of Phillips screws on the ends. There are a couple of clips, so pull the dash towards you. Whenever I work on anything under the dash, I pull the entire thing out, makes working in that area sooo easy.
There is no practical way to do this without removing the dash and you also need to drop the column. No you don't have to remove it from the rig just take out the bolts that hold it to the dash and let it come down.
Like Granite Grinder said it's not that hard to remove the dash just time consuming. And no you don't have to pull the wiring loom, leave it in place but do pull the defroster vent that feeds the windshield or you will crack it trying to get to bolts for the pedal bucket.
And be careful there is one bolt for the pedal bucket that is buried under the wire loom. I know you dont want to hear it but getting the pedal bucket out is much easer if you pull the 10 bolts or so that hold the lower part of the dash in. Yes that means pulling the glove box too
Sorry Spook I can't come to Spokane right now even for beer. Where I picked up most of this was by stripping my original diesel body and moving most of the interior to a donor body that I had to gut as well. I even swapped the wire harness. Both rigs were gutted to the firewall without cutting anything. I stripped the donor in about 4 hours. It's amazing how practical Toyota was when they put these things together.
Tony
Like Granite Grinder said it's not that hard to remove the dash just time consuming. And no you don't have to pull the wiring loom, leave it in place but do pull the defroster vent that feeds the windshield or you will crack it trying to get to bolts for the pedal bucket.
And be careful there is one bolt for the pedal bucket that is buried under the wire loom. I know you dont want to hear it but getting the pedal bucket out is much easer if you pull the 10 bolts or so that hold the lower part of the dash in. Yes that means pulling the glove box too
Sorry Spook I can't come to Spokane right now even for beer. Where I picked up most of this was by stripping my original diesel body and moving most of the interior to a donor body that I had to gut as well. I even swapped the wire harness. Both rigs were gutted to the firewall without cutting anything. I stripped the donor in about 4 hours. It's amazing how practical Toyota was when they put these things together.
Tony
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I disagree. I just finished one of these. Removed cluster and steering column assy, swapped pedal buckets, holesawed and drilled for clutch pedal, bolted up clutch MC, connect pedals & springs, adjust both heights & freeplays, steer column, pulled 5spd speedo cable up & secured, reassembled cluster.
There was no need to remove upper dash or defrosters.
There was no need to remove upper dash or defrosters.
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I disagree. I just finished one of these. Removed cluster and steering column assy, swapped pedal buckets, holesawed and drilled for clutch pedal, bolted up clutch MC, connect pedals & springs, adjust both heights & freeplays, steer column, pulled 5spd speedo cable up & secured, reassembled cluster.
There was no need to remove upper dash or defrosters.
Villagers demand pics!
- Thread starter
- #30
Jim C. Thanks for chiming in. When you say removed the steering column assay, do you mean unbolted it from the gear box under the hood or just lowered it by unbolting it from the dash. I can't see how if you unbolted it, you would have enough space.
As I see it you either need to lower the steering assay and drop it to the floor or remove the dash.
I'll be back to taking more apart tommarow after work.
Thanks for all the responses.
As I see it you either need to lower the steering assay and drop it to the floor or remove the dash.
I'll be back to taking more apart tommarow after work.
Thanks for all the responses.
Guy
As you can see there are lots of ways to do things. While some guys are just fine with working through a keyhole I just found things way easier to do with the dash out of the way. Besides it's so easy to pull. So take your pick of methods they all work.
Tony
As you can see there are lots of ways to do things. While some guys are just fine with working through a keyhole I just found things way easier to do with the dash out of the way. Besides it's so easy to pull. So take your pick of methods they all work.
Tony
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The steer column has to be removed to get the pedal box out. Once the column is dropped down, the only thing keeping it in the truck is the pinch bolt under the hood. Remove the bolt and get it outta there.
- Thread starter
- #33
Thanks guys for the advice. I'll be working on it tonight.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
Semi-curious, does the transfer case swap over to the later model large (38mm) idler shaft models?
AFAIK, the transfer case housings are the same i.e. bolt patterns between the A440 and H55, which would leave me to believe that the idler change wouldn't impact anything. So you should be able to use a 38mm case behind any box that had a split case. I know you can't swap around gears internally. I could be out to lunch, I don't know for sure the output spline counts of all the trannys, for instance H42, H41, H55 and A440. I'm bolting a t-case from an HJ60 auto onto a H55, but I could have used my FJ62 one as well, just need the oiler and different bolt lengths. The reason I'm using the HJ t-case is for it's lower low range gears (2.3)?
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
You can, or cannot use the gears? It seems like you are saying both?!?
The part number for the tranny output gear looks to be the same for both the FJ62 and HJ60.
- Thread starter
- #38
So I had a couple hours tonight to work on the pedal bucket. I first removed the dash, bolts out pretty easily 20 minutes. Although, I couldn't figure how to pull the bucket out through the increased axcess by pulling the dash. Maybe, I'm missing the point on removing it. It does give you better axcess but for me it was in the wrong direction. Kynot62, I'm thinking the dash removal is for axcess to the upper bolts.
I decided early on I was going to try the two different options to get it out, plus i just wanted to pull the dash to clean everything up anyway.
Next, I unbolted the pinch nut and spread the clamp on the steering column and oiled it real well. Then on the firewall, in the cab, unbolted the 4 nuts that hold the steering column plate. Also, removed the wiring on the column. Then the whole steering column and wheel slide out, totally out. This gave total axcess to the pedal bucket. The bucket is then very easy to remove. I also removed the insulation that covers the firewall. Now its a clean easy area to work in.
Note: you could probable leave the colunm pinch bolt alone and just unbolt the column plate from the firewall and have enough axcess to pull the bucket, but without the column in the way there is so much room to get things done.
Next is opening up the holes for the clutch master cylinder, which has the holes imprinted in the firewall.
I decided early on I was going to try the two different options to get it out, plus i just wanted to pull the dash to clean everything up anyway.
Next, I unbolted the pinch nut and spread the clamp on the steering column and oiled it real well. Then on the firewall, in the cab, unbolted the 4 nuts that hold the steering column plate. Also, removed the wiring on the column. Then the whole steering column and wheel slide out, totally out. This gave total axcess to the pedal bucket. The bucket is then very easy to remove. I also removed the insulation that covers the firewall. Now its a clean easy area to work in.
Note: you could probable leave the colunm pinch bolt alone and just unbolt the column plate from the firewall and have enough axcess to pull the bucket, but without the column in the way there is so much room to get things done.
Next is opening up the holes for the clutch master cylinder, which has the holes imprinted in the firewall.
I'm loving this thread. I'm very curious to see what you do as far as the crossmember and mounting brackets, and changing the transmission hump skin panel to accomodate the manual shifter. From the looks of it it's not as simple as just a bolt-in swap for that. Hopefully I'm wrong and the hole for the A440F's shifter can just be capped with a ghetto-fabbed gasket and steel sheet cut to fit.
