Out with the Semi-Old A440-In with the H55

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Rusty Pig--thanks, those are from a 1984.
 
Back in Town and back to my project:

I got the thrust bearing and put it on and reassembled the TC. Then that night I started reviewing previous post and relized I didn't put on the 5th gear oiler. I e-mailed Cruiserdrew and asked if it was really needed..Affirmative.:crybaby:

I really like to take things apart 2 or 3 times to make sure I know it backward and forward.:mad:

!!!!! DON'T FORGET TO PUT ON THE 5TH GEAR OILER WHEN REBUILDING THE TRANSFERCASE FOR A 5 SPEED !!!!!


So I had to wait for a new seal after I tore it down again.

The TC is all put back together again, except for one switch that has to be repaired and the vacume actuator for the 4wd, I'm going to wait until the tranny is in place so I don't inadvertantly break it off during the mounting process. Also, I put on the shifting fork and throw out bearing. Brake line repaired. Almost ready to put in.


I need to mount the flywheel and clutch.


I measured the differences in bellhousing to TC. The a440 from bellhousing to TC is 26 3/4, The H55 is 21 3/4. 5 1/2 inch difference.

I'm trying to get the tranny in this weekend.

Pictures are Oiler, Oiler in place on front of TC, and reassebled TC

What's the part number on that 5th gear oiler?
 
oiler

33124-36010-Oil Pipe (nipple)

Ex
 
Rusty Pig--thanks, those are from a 1984.

Tranny mount, crossmember, and crossmember mounts are all from an '84?

Were any of these changed in the later years for the 60 series?

Going over the conversion in my head (and reading this thread over and over again) it's looking like I won't be able to do any welding on the truck (garage won't be wired up for 240V in time).

So I'm thinking I'd get some 1/4" plate, form it into a "U" to basically cup the frame rail, weld the crossmember mounts on the sides of the "U" that'll be inboard of the truck's frame, then drill it so I can have two grade 8 bolts on the top of each frame rail literally pinching the plate onto the rail. The same way the RLMS 60 series sliders mount to the frame:

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Anyone thing this will (or won't) work?
 
Spook--All my stuff was from a 1984. Just remember there's a lot of weight on the mounts and there is 4 bolt holes on each side and bolts handling the weight. I think it would be just as easy or tough to line everything up and drill the holes thru the frame and do it that way. But, you probable could do it the way you described. (There's a thousand ways to skin a cat). Just take your time and do it the simplest and strongest way you can come up with.

BTW--I had mine smogged on friday and there were no issues.
 
Thoughts on the swap...

Thanks for your efforts PISMO62 to put up all the work you did here on MUD. I'm close to doing this myself as my torque converter is going out a little more each time a drive my '88 after some good ole Rodney flushing and 197K.

For a breakdown on some pricing I was thinking the following

$850 (Cruiserparts.net) FJ62 5-speed conversion kit with shipping
$2,674 New OEM H55F and install gasket set (Cruiserparts.net) shipped to my commercial address.
$180 4 new OEM U-joints
$100 Drive shaft balancing, straigtening, and install U-joints (Frenso Driveline)
$525 Transfercase rebuild kit, two transfercase bearings and shim kit (Specter)
$230 New clutch assembly kit with heavy clutch plate and rear main seal

$4,559 not counting any exhaust rerouting or pipe bending labor.

This budget assumes the following: new OEM tranny, I do the transfercase rebuild, new clutch, new u joints with trued up driveshafts. I'm on the fence with the twin stick shifter that George makes up in Stockton for another $220.

I'd go with Man A Fre on the new OEM tranny however, the tax makes it more than a c-note to get it from Cruiserparts.net.

Any thoughts on items I have missed or advice to keep the costs down?

Thanks again.
 
So I'm thinking I'd get some 1/4" plate, form it into a "U" to basically cup the frame rail, weld the crossmember mounts on the sides of the "U" that'll be inboard of the truck's frame, then drill it so I can have two grade 8 bolts on the top of each frame rail literally pinching the plate onto the rail. The same way the RLMS 60 series sliders mount to the frame:

Anyone thing this will (or won't) work?

My gut reaction is: don't do it. If you can't get it welded, bolt it to frame, but, make sure you sleeve the frame or add a piece of steel that is the same width as the frame rail on both sides. A bolt with a large washer will compress the frame. You could call a mobile welder dude, get it all fitted up and have a truck show up to burn it in :hhmm:
 
My gut reaction is: don't do it. If you can't get it welded, bolt it to frame, but, make sure you sleeve the frame or add a piece of steel that is the same width as the frame rail on both sides. A bolt with a large washer will compress the frame. You could call a mobile welder dude, get it all fitted up and have a truck show up to burn it in :hhmm:

Exactly what I was thinking when I was considering the "pinch" method. I suppose if I drilled THROUGH the frame and had a 1/4" plate on the outboard side of the frame rail it would spread the force out enough to avoid compressing the frame. I'd hate to drill extra holes into my frame though.

The mobile welder is something I'm considering too. No idea how much it would cost (really wish I knew someone with a mobile rig) though.
 
FJ40--the cruiserparts for 800$ you could pick up cheaper from someone parting out. mine was 600 shipped. Also, if you didn't go for a brand new but a rebuilt H55 that would reduce costs. In hindsight I would of bought the SOR tranny/transfer case for about 2500$. That saves alot of work. The reason I did my own was I had rebuilt it a couple of years ago and it had a mcnamara gear in it that I wanted in the new one. That's about all the cost savings I can come up with. Also, make sure you have a factory service manual, one for your car and one from the donor year. Good Luck
 
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Also, make sure you have a factory service manual. Good Luck

Truer words have never been typed! I have the FSM for my 89, did you supplement that with another FSM that specifically addresses the 5-speed? I'm thinking that a post-85 USA FSM would almost get you there, maybe?
 
I borrowed PismoJims 84 manual. Also, Jim had a manual from australia that showed some pictures of the set-ups,that always makes things easier.
 
fwiw, there is a seperate fsm that deals strictly with the h42, h55f and split case. i have a couple of them, can try to dig them up for the part # if anybody needs it.

hth

georg @ valley hybrids
 
Good call, Jim. I'll be ordering one soon if they can still be gotten from Toyota. Or at least seeing if I can get one somewhere.

Hey Guy, how did you align the crossmember mounts to properly hold the tranny when it's all bolted up? Were you able to just align them with the top of the frame rail and then just measure how far forward you had to go? I'm planning a body lift that might be done before I do my swap, so going off how much clearance I have between body and tranny might not be a smart way to go for me.
 
Good call, Jim. I'll be ordering one soon if they can still be gotten from Toyota. Or at least seeing if I can get one somewhere.

Godwin's part # is for the reprinted manual from SOR. The fact that SOR is selling a reprint leads me to believe that the OE FSM is NLA. The 85-90 FJ6x,7x Body & Chassis manual has complete coverage of H55 and split case rebuilding, FWIW.
 
Godwin's part # is for the reprinted manual from SOR. The fact that SOR is selling a reprint leads me to believe that the OE FSM is NLA. The 85-90 FJ6x,7x Body & Chassis manual has complete coverage of H55 and split case rebuilding, FWIW.

Heh, I noticed that looked like an SOR number yesterday so I punched it up there, and sure enough. I don't remember seeing H55 coverage in my FSM (granted I haven't had to crack it open for a while, which I suppose is a good thing). I'll have to study up when I get home.
 
33124-36010-Oil Pipe (nipple)

Ex


I know I can probably get this from American Toyota but....

I called the local dealer to see if it was in their system and they could not find it.

How did you acquire this part? Cdan, SOR, Marks, etc.

Thanks, Jimmy

EDIT:
Never mind I found the source.
http://www.discounttoyotaparts.com/
 
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The dealers all use the same system and parts locator so there's no reason why they can't get it for you. I get mine from my local dealer and have the 5th gear funnels in stock.
Hth
Georg @ valley hybrids
 

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