Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (2 Viewers)

[mongoose2231]

Sorry, posted before finishing the typing: I meant to say that I have deducted that the batteries do not get charged. I have to test my alternator but the gauge does show that it is putting put 32V. Maybe loose connections somewhere. If anyone has any idea where to look first? I am going to check and see all the connections and then test the alternator to see if it puts out voltage. If everything is good, I'd have to see where to turn next. I am ruling out the batteries because I don't think they fail overnite just like that. The only work I did on the truck prior to this issue is change the shocks.

 

[mongoose2231]

Awesome!! That engine sounds like it has a bright future!

This 10A fuse for the AC, are you saying that in the main fuse panel in the vehicle cabin, there is not fuse for the AC?

The diagrams show a 10A inline between the switch and the blower. But now I am not sure if the diagrams apply to the HJ. The switch wires are differently colored as well.

 

[Slow Left]

The diagrams show a 10A inline between the switch and the blower. But now I am not sure if the diagrams apply to the HJ. The switch wires are differently colored as well.

Here is an image from the wiring diagram in the back of the "1984-chassis-body" FSM...it clearly marks that it is for the 60 series Heavy Duty trucks and if you look within the diagram itself at the A/C amplifier, it marks that it is for the 2H...

You can download this FSM at the following website, along with heaps of other FSMs:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fsms.743084/

 

[Slow Left]

Here are the diagrams for the rear AC wiring:

 

[mongoose2231]

Thank you for the pics. I have the same exact thing. I cannot for the love of God find the darn fuse. Unless it's hidden under some cover somewhere.

 

[Slow Left]

Thank you for the pics. I have the same exact thing. I cannot for the love of God find the darn fuse. Unless it's hidden under some cover somewhere.

Is it possible that the PO (Previous Owner) had removed the fuse? Is there a blank spot in the fuse panel?

@hj60 , do you know what the deal with the 10A A/C fuse on the HJ60 is??

 

[mongoose2231]

I appreciate all the help. There are a couple blanks in the fuse panel. I am also baffled as to why the a/c switch wires are different color rather than as described in the diagram. Unless it's a borrowed/replaced switch form like a pickup or something from the era.

 

[Slow Left]

I appreciate all the help. There are a couple blanks in the fuse panel. I am also baffled as to why the a/c switch wires are different color rather than as described in the diagram. Unless it's a borrowed/replaced switch form like a pickup or something from the era.

OK, usually on the back of the lid of the fuse panel cover, it specifies which fuse goes to what...I looked in the FSM and didn't find an image showing which fuses correspond to what systems go where, but I really didn't look that hard.
You might be able to test if one of those empty spots goes to the A/C by doing a continuity test (measure resistance) with the multimeter between a side of the fuse spot and the lead in the wire harness connects into the A/C switch...but you'd have to disconnect the batteries first...

As far as the difference in colors, it is possible that one of the diagrams in the FSM is wrong...double check the wiring diagram in the A/C section of the FSM against the wiring diagram in the back of the FSM and see if there is any discrepancy...

 

[Slow Left]

see:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/hj60-fuse-panel-diagram.51957/

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/assistance-with-1986-hj60-a-c-relay-location.351313/

here is an image. see third column from the left, middle row:

 

[mongoose2231]

My sticker is missing so I couldn't identify which fuse was what. That helps a ton.

 

[Slow Left]

Cool. Just had an idea about one option you might have for the alternator/battery situation. If you call around to your local Aftermarket Auto Parts stores, they may offer free alt/battery testing. Not sure if the alt/battery has to be installed or removed from the vehicle or what all the test entails, but if it requires a tool/equipment you don't have, that might be an efficient way to go...

 

[mongoose2231]

That is actually a great idea. I will look into it.

 

[mongoose2231]

It's new been a couple weeks since I took everything apart. I have everything back together now, including a factory toyota 1986 tape player. So it's as it should. I however can not solve my dead battery issue. The truck starts if I roll it down the hill and then all electrics work perfect. Good lights and wipers etc. I tested the alternator and it puts out 28.5 volts. The passenger side battery w/ engine off ready 12.875v the other side reads 10.75v. W/ engine on the passenger side reads at 15.5 while the other reads at 12.5v as far as I can see. So one battery takes a nigh charge while the other does not. I have tested the wiring that leads to the drivers side battery and the voltage reads 15 up until a junction on the fender. A simple bolt connecting 2 terminals together. Then testing at the battery directly shows 12.5 only. It's as if the voltage gets lost somewhere. I have cleaned the ground connections and everything is good. Are my batteries shot, or am I looking at a bad wire somewhere?

 

[John E]

Sounds like you might have a bad cell in one battery.

 

[mongoose2231]

Sounds like you might have a bad cell in one battery.

Ok, I will buy new batteries. That was my next moove but I have the feeling that something else might be faulty.

 

[mongoose2231]

Update. Yesterday I removed the bad battery and put it in my pickup. Jump started the thing and low and behold, the battery dies take a charge. I then put it back in my truck and started it up. I have undone all the ground connections, cleaned the terminals, etc. and I still get a 15v reading on the pass side and 12.65v on the drivers side. What gives? Do I need a charge equaliZer? What should I look into? Not running, the voltage reads 13v on pass side and 12.22v on drivers side, after charging it in my pickup. Everything is back to stock as far as the wiring goes. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[hj 60]

hi, here is some of the electrics in my hj, My father is in hospital (ok now) and busy with work, selling house so no time

No airco in mine, 10apm fuse is in picture of fuses in link.


So problem now is overcharging at 15v with engine idle?
Alternator gan give full amps,but not raise voltage so alternator seems bad?

Is it not glowing all the time and draining? or do you see when it starts and stops glowing?
What is the voltage combined 24v?
did you drive a bit, in my hj the charger likes to have more rpm like on the highway
is that 15v at idle?
did you check the fsm foralternator testing, might help more with finding problem..


if it does not charge it should give a warning light, if it overcharges the regulator is bad, should test at service center I think?
Overcharging is danger to explode, gas smells like rotten eggs, creates rust.


some copy paste from were the pictures are hosted, to much to copy...

http://hj60.freeforums.org/24v-glow-alternator-dome-light-buzzer-battery-t16.html


Filterlight and red charging light went on.
Means brushes are worn out. Driving without belt gives red warning light only! (?why)

Can not test right now, welding and batteries disconnected, :
create a door to hell...

 

[mongoose2231]

Hey bud thanks for your reply. I have no alternator issue, nor are any of my lights on. The alt is putting out a solid 28v. My issue is one bat takes 15.5 and the other takes 12.5 when running. How do I resolve this issue? I drove the truck all day today without issues. Drives and starts perfect, I assume I never put any load on the batteries. I think I will keep them on a trickle every time the truck is parked for longer periods. I wonder about a charge equalizer... Hmmm

 

[mongoose2231]

On another note, I just got my injection nozzles from uk. Original denso replacement parts. They look and operate smooth as butter. I've done the tilted neddle test as per manual. They behave exactly as they should. Looking forward to rebuilding my injectors over the weekend. I'm sure my black smoke will disappear.

 

[hj 60]

that looks cool, I still want to remove mine to clean so if you have the wrench size and do's and dont's or even the page in the fsm I would like to know.
Can you switch the batteries? just curious if the 15.5 and 12.5 switch or stay. combined is 28v but I am pretty sure mine has about 13.7 on both when charging. Will measure as soon as it starts, want to finish the welding tomorrow =Wednesday, road test it Thursday.