Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (1 Viewer)

[mongoose2231]

Hmmm...that kinda sounds like a bare wire grounding itself...in short, a short....

But I think your 'long term' thinking approach is the right one here, given the amount of uncertainty attributed to the PO's work. So attacking it just to find a single exposed wire grounding is probably not the best approach...but rather, how you are approaching it sounds like the correct approach to me...or at least, given the information, that's how I would approach it too...especially if I was lucky enough to have a DIESEL 60 like you!!!!!!!!!!!

I am considering myself lucky! Owned an 84 60 for about 3 years and drove it long distances on the interstate a lot. I found myself wishing I had a 5 speed, so I had planned on getting an h55 into it soon. I then finally found an h55 with a diesel engine and truck attached to it and got that instead. Besides the wiring issue, the truck seems solid. Will report on my findings, hopefully this weekend I'll have it resolved.

 

[mongoose2231]

I think I'm making progress. The harness has been hacked to hell. I hope I can have everything working again.

 

[Slow Left]

...surgery...

 

[mongoose2231]

Major, I'm loosing confidence a bit but the 2h is really not in need of much wiring so at least she still be running when I'm done with it... Hopefully

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

I have to tear my dash apart and rewire everything in the very NEAR FUTURE. I am dreading it... The PO performed some... well I don't know what the hell you call it.... Hopefully its not as bad as I think it will be.

J

 

[Slow Left]

Yeah, electrical hack jobs are kind of like tattoos...at the time, they seem like the right thing to do...

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Yeah, electrical hack jobs are kind of like tattoos...at the time, they seem like the right thing to do...

NUFF SAID....................

J

 

[Slow Left]

NUFF SAID....................

J

Oh...my....

Well,...trying to take the glass half full attitude here...at least all the wires in the PO's hack job seem to be outside of the OE harness...low hanging...

He didn't even make an effort to tuck them up behind the dash....

 

[Slow Left]

You know, taking another look at that J, it looks like he just ran the wires for the 4bt outside/over the original 2F wiring...but he must have spliced into the components somewhere...

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

You know, taking another look at that J, it looks like he just ran the wires for the 4bt outside/over the original 2F wiring...but he must have spliced into the components somewhere...

My ignition doesn't work.. Starter is wired to a push button.. Head lights and gauges operate off toggle switches. Turn signals, wipers, and courtesy lights operate as usual. Once I get the dash off and trace wires, hopefully its simple splicing to get the headlights and ignition tied in properly. I am terrible at electrical....

J

 

[Slow Left]

My ignition doesn't work.. Starter is wired to a push button.. Head lights and gauges operate off toggle switches. Turn signals, wipers, and courtesy lights operate as usual. Once I get the dash off and trace wires, hopefully its simple splicing to get the headlights and ignition tied in properly. I am terrible at electrical....

J

So it does sound like he tried to go around the OE harness...the good news is that you have the OE wiring diagram to fall back on.

Yeah, electrical sucks. I really feel like a contortionist every time I try to work under the dash, but that is in large part because I'm usually too lazy to do the right thing and remove things in order to make my world more comfortable.

Is your 4bt 12 or 24 Volt?

If I understand, Mongoose has got a 2H with 24V in a FJ60 USA body...so it must have been a conversion, not diesel from the factory, thus the converter from 24V to 12V for the 'appliances'...

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

So it does sound like he tried to go around the OE harness...the good news is that you have the OE wiring diagram to fall back on.

Yeah, electrical sucks. I really feel like a contortionist every time I try to work under the dash, but that is in large part because I'm usually too lazy to do the right thing and remove things in order to make my world more comfortable.

Is your 4bt 12 or 24 Volt?

If I understand, Mongoose has got a 2H with 24V in a FJ60 USA body...so it must have been a conversion, not diesel from the factory, thus the converter from 24V to 12V for the 'appliances'...

I'm 12V. Yeah I just need to open it up and see what I got.. Then post ALOT of pictures and beg for help.

J

 

[Slow Left]

I'm 12V. Yeah I just need to open it up and see what I got.. Then post ALOT of pictures and beg for help.

J

I'm not familiar with the 4bt, but most days I can think a decent thought if I think it's the required kind of thing to be thinking...if you know what I mean...

And Mongoose here is going to have a Phd in "Sorting out Electrical Hack Jobs"...

 

[vipergrhd]

He is unhacking it from what it looks like,take your time and get rid of what doesn't belong in there in the first place.

 

[mongoose2231]

So it does sound like he tried to go around the OE harness...the good news is that you have the OE wiring diagram to fall back on.

Yeah, electrical sucks. I really feel like a contortionist every time I try to work under the dash, but that is in large part because I'm usually too lazy to do the right thing and remove things in order to make my world more comfortable.

Is your 4bt 12 or 24 Volt?

If I understand, Mongoose has got a 2H with 24V in a FJ60 USA body...so it must have been a conversion, not diesel from the factory, thus the converter from 24V to 12V for the 'appliances'...

My truck is an import 24v not a conversion. However, the add ons were/ are 12v: stereo, alarm, Sirius radio, etc. and to make matters worse there is an amp and a 400w power inverter as well. Everything seemed to run off 12v past the step down transformer or something. I am trying to go back to original and hopefully my battery drain problem will be sold. If not, I then will start diagnosing as mentioned before in the thread.

 

[Slow Left]

My truck is an import 24v not a conversion. However, the add ons were/ are 12v: stereo, alarm, Sirius radio, etc. and to make matters worse there is an amp and a 400w power inverter as well. Everything seemed to run off 12v past the step down transformer or something. I am trying to go back to original and hopefully my battery drain problem will be sold. If not, I then will start diagnosing as mentioned before in the thread.

Gottcha. Just went back and reread the beginning of thread...a German 60!!!

But the turns signals, heater, OEM radio etc...are those 24V?

 

[mongoose2231]

Gottcha. Just went back and reread the beginning of thread...a German 60!!!

But the turns signals, heater, OEM radio etc...are those 24V?

It's basically a 24v truck. I am pretty sure everything on my truck is 24v. The worst hack was on the ac wire harness. Thank you Toyota for color coded wires. I got everything back in order as far as that piece of harness goes but the only thing that's left floating about is the a/c switch. 3 wires, 2 blue and one white i think. I cannot see where they were connected..... Out comes the diagram......
Now it's all nice and clean the original harness is all that remains.... phfeeewww. pics to follow.

 

[Slow Left]

It's basically a 24v truck. I am pretty sure everything on my truck is 24v. The worst hack was on the ac wire harness. Thank you Toyota for color coded wires. I got everything back in order as far as that piece of harness goes but the only thing that's left floating about is the a/c switch. 3 wires, 2 blue and one white i think. I cannot see where they were connected..... Out comes the diagram......
Now it's all nice and clean the original harness is all that remains.... phfeeewww. pics to follow.

Yeah, throw some pics up. Let the puzzle begin!

BTW, what is the name of the FSM you are using for that rig?

EDIT: "1984-Chassis-Body" for the body and "1985 2H, 12HT" for the Engine etc?

 

[Slow Left]

Wire Color Code Key on page BE-2 from "1984 chassis-body" FSM

 

[mongoose2231]

Wire Color Code Key on page BE-2 from "1984 chassis-body" FSM

View attachment 936173

Yes, those are the manuals I am using. I think I'll have everything working in the end. Looks good so far. I won't be putting it together just yet, I want to fix the hacked main vent and I want to try everything prior to reassembly.