Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (9 Viewers)

[mongoose2231]

I'm a Saab guy and an FJ60 guy. What you could do is see if you can find a Saab 900 turbo in a junkyard from 1986-1993. Those years had "APC" which works really well at controlling boost and monitoring the engine for knock. It uses a knock sensor mounted to the block, a control box, and a solenoind valve that meters engine vacuum to a wastegate actuator. When the knock sensor triggers it dumps boost. The system has a base boost mechanically set in the linkage and then typically runs up to 12 or so psi. Modded control boxes will go higher. Should work with any vacuum wastegate actuator.


Somehow missed this was a diesel I blame it on my excitement (lack or reading comprehension) of the project. Thinking the Saab system probably won't work as it was built for Gasoline and the various vibrations in a diesel would probably send the knock sensor into hysterics.

I was gonna say, but didn't want to be rude..hihihi

 

[mongoose2231]

frame swap is not that bad. I believe you mentioned having a donor. Good luck with it and look forward to seeing your progress. I just picked up a rusty one from BC. Look forward to assessing it to see if I can save it.

Yes, the frame swap is on my list. I just didn't want to decommision the darn thing again....sigh

 

[mongoose2231]

Can you share where did you get them .?

Hey bud, got them at
"Stainless diesel
Google that.

 

[mongoose2231]

Wow, three months since posting in this here thread. Been doing lots of reading on the forum, entertaining myself. Had to work on my minitruck due to a small accident and ended up with a 98 tacoma as well to boot. Long story short, big brown is in for a full tear down to cut out the rust. Everyone stay tuned.

 

[cors]

hi , im searching your thread for fitting turbos on the 2h, am contemplating it on mine. up to page 7. thought id say gday

 

[mongoose2231]

Thanks for reaching out. ask questions if you have any. I'll gladly help.

 

[Jaric00n]

needs larger turbo.....

 

[Jaric00n]

Glad to see things are getting done nicely....

I'm still in paint prep stage...

getting otheritems powder coated and starting to prep wiring for new Audio system.

will prpbably get rear cargo windows tinted as they are coming off and most likely the rear one

 

[cors]

Thanks for reaching out. ask questions if you have any. I'll gladly help.

seems you did the turbo install with the minimum parts, i guess if i go forward with my rig i will try do the same with parts.

 

[mongoose2231]

it's really just a flipped up manifold with home made adapter, a 7MGTE CT26 turbo, oil feed from pressure sender, oil drain to the lifter cover (bung welded) and home made down-pipe. Added later on a provent 200 catch can. Oh, and ofcourse, the boost and egt gauges. thats it.

 

[mongoose2231]

i can provide a parts list if you'd like, I will post it here actually, but cost was about $650 if i am not mistaken

 

[cors]

your rig looked rather nice inside and out , was shocked to see that metal tear near the spring hanger.
my rig has had an old man with a paint brush touching it up all the years so its fairly good in the body department , but interior is worn out . I feel as though it was his wood collecting vehicle, but to be sure ive ****ed every car i have ever owned and a couple of work vans, so its all down hill in terms of looks from now on.

 

[mongoose2231]

Have u pics of yours? I have a parts rig with a great chassis that i want to swap, even though this is fixable

 

[pistonpete]

i can provide a parts list if you'd like, I will post it here actually, but cost was about $650 if i am not mistaken

Please do, this is coming for me also !

 

[mongoose2231]

Ok, getting the list together

 

[cors]

Have u pics of yours? I have a parts rig with a great chassis that i want to swap, even though this is fixable

My rig called monkeybutt HJ60 2H 1982

 

[mongoose2231]

OK, so I put together a list of crap that is needed to do this at home, without actually buying a turbo kit. Stuff that is needed:
* Used turbo CT26 from a supra is what I have used. For best performance, try sourcing a 58010 turbine housing to replace the 42010 that comes with the supra CT26. If you have access to used turbos off toyota diesels in other markets, then your're golden. Turbo may also need a rebuild so buy a kit or a new CHRA from a reputable source. I bought a MELLET unit out of England.
* Flip your manifold and drill and tap it for your EGT probe.
* New exhaust manifold gaskets
* EGT gauge off of Amazon
* Boost gauge off of amazon (bought all as a package)
* Remove rear lifter cover, drill and install a 5/8" or 3/4" bung onto it. Will need a new gasket for that, unless you're doing this to the oil pan, case in which you would need a new gasket for that.
* Buy an assortment of 1/4" NPT's and 4 AN's in male and female and some brass "T"s tgo be able to tap for oil feed at the oil pressure sender location. I forgot what I have used but it was a combination of fittings as I also installed a mechanical oil gauge as well.
* Buy a steel braided oil feed line (at least 4' long) off the internet, for a CT26 together with the adaptor plate that bolts to the CHRA. You wil lfind these sold independently. The drain line side should not be threaded but rather allow a hose and clamp connection as in this link
TOYOTA CT12 CT20 CT26 Turbo oil & water flange adapter Kit (1xoil + 1xtwin port) • $23.66
I have blocked off the water inlets as they aren't really needed for this application, so buy a set of those as well
* About 2 feet of 5/8 diameter oil hose for the drain.
* Heat shielding tape to wrap hose
* Assortment of intake silicone elbows and such. After mocking up the turbo you will take measurements and see what suits you best. I used a 90 degree and a 45 degree for pressure side, and some straight cuts for the pre turbo side to allow me to reach the factory filter housing. The diameters have to be measured out based on what you will be using.
* Some length of rigid intake pipe, I used Exhaust pipe in 2.5" diameter to get me from filter to the turbo, see pics in my thread for the setup.
* A rubber cap for the intake throat to block off hole that connected it to the valve cover. This is a 5/8" diameter cap or use a piece of hose and a brass cap off the shelf at hardware stores
* about 2 feet of 5/8" hose to run the valve cover vent into the intake pre-turbo, if you want the system sealed, or run a small filter over it. I advise against that
* Provent 200 (optional but great at keeping oil out of intake) This will need some adapters, depending on your setup. The intake and outlet on the provent are larger diameter than the valve cover nipple so account for that.
* An adapter that allows you to tap into your silicone intake to run the valve cover vent into it, unless you weld a bung in the metal side to receive it. See it here
Silicone Port System
I bought all my silicone at the link above.
*If you have a 24v truck and no 24v gauges then see my thread for the electrical diagram and my setup to run the 12v gauges in my 24v truck.
* Lastly, you will need to fabricate an adapter that allows you to bolt the 4 bolt turbo to the 3 hole manifold. Drawings are included in my thread. Also some nice stainless hardware for that.
NOTE:WITH THIS SETUP, THE HOOD WILL NEED TO BE CUT TO CLEAR THE TURBO!!

 

[mongoose2231]

My rig called monkeybutt HJ60 2H 1982

I have seen you thread before. Cool rig!!

 

[Seth S]

I was surprised to see 21mpg. I will see as I go if anything changes.

Turbo likely allows you to stay in a higher gear for longer with the added torque. As a result you are spinning the engine less and burn less fuel.

 

[mongoose2231]

Turbo likely allows you to stay in a higher gear for longer with the added torque. As a result you are spinning the engine less and burn less fuel.

I think the fuel burns better, causing the engine to work more efociently.