OK, so I put together a list of crap that is needed to do this at home, without actually buying a turbo kit. Stuff that is needed:
* Used turbo CT26 from a supra is what I have used. For best performance, try sourcing a 58010 turbine housing to replace the 42010 that comes with the supra CT26. If you have access to used turbos off toyota diesels in other markets, then your're golden. Turbo may also need a rebuild so buy a kit or a new CHRA from a reputable source. I bought a MELLET unit out of England.
* Flip your manifold and drill and tap it for your EGT probe.
* New exhaust manifold gaskets
* EGT gauge off of Amazon
* Boost gauge off of amazon (bought all as a package)
* Remove rear lifter cover, drill and install a 5/8" or 3/4" bung onto it. Will need a new gasket for that, unless you're doing this to the oil pan, case in which you would need a new gasket for that.
* Buy an assortment of 1/4" NPT's and 4 AN's in male and female and some brass "T"s tgo be able to tap for oil feed at the oil pressure sender location. I forgot what I have used but it was a combination of fittings as I also installed a mechanical oil gauge as well.
* Buy a steel braided oil feed line (at least 4' long) off the internet, for a CT26 together with the adaptor plate that bolts to the CHRA. You wil lfind these sold independently. The drain line side should not be threaded but rather allow a hose and clamp connection as in this link
TOYOTA CT12 CT20 CT26 Turbo oil & water flange adapter Kit (1xoil + 1xtwin port) • $23.66
I have blocked off the water inlets as they aren't really needed for this application, so buy a set of those as well
* About 2 feet of 5/8 diameter oil hose for the drain.
* Heat shielding tape to wrap hose
* Assortment of intake silicone elbows and such. After mocking up the turbo you will take measurements and see what suits you best. I used a 90 degree and a 45 degree for pressure side, and some straight cuts for the pre turbo side to allow me to reach the factory filter housing. The diameters have to be measured out based on what you will be using.
* Some length of rigid intake pipe, I used Exhaust pipe in 2.5" diameter to get me from filter to the turbo, see pics in my thread for the setup.
* A rubber cap for the intake throat to block off hole that connected it to the valve cover. This is a 5/8" diameter cap or use a piece of hose and a brass cap off the shelf at hardware stores
* about 2 feet of 5/8" hose to run the valve cover vent into the intake pre-turbo, if you want the system sealed, or run a small filter over it. I advise against that
* Provent 200 (optional but great at keeping oil out of intake) This will need some adapters, depending on your setup. The intake and outlet on the provent are larger diameter than the valve cover nipple so account for that.
* An adapter that allows you to tap into your silicone intake to run the valve cover vent into it, unless you weld a bung in the metal side to receive it. See it here
Silicone Port System
I bought all my silicone at the link above.
*If you have a 24v truck and no 24v gauges then see my thread for the electrical diagram and my setup to run the 12v gauges in my 24v truck.
* Lastly, you will need to fabricate an adapter that allows you to bolt the 4 bolt turbo to the 3 hole manifold. Drawings are included in my thread. Also some nice stainless hardware for that.
NOTE:WITH THIS SETUP, THE HOOD WILL NEED TO BE CUT TO CLEAR THE TURBO!!
I blame it on my excitement (lack or reading comprehension) of the project. Thinking the Saab system probably won't work as it was built for Gasoline and the various vibrations in a diesel would probably send the knock sensor into hysterics.
