- Thread starter
- #341
Great, thanks for the pics. So should I go with this turbine or try to source a 58020? Believe it or not the primary reason for turboing my truck was to get rid of the smoking..
Builds Out with the old and in with the new!(turboed 2h!)now no longer turbo, but rebuilt! (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter mongoose2231
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As you are mounting your turbo in relatively easy accessible place, i would say try with the existing housing.
If the turbo starts making boost (or engine still smokes black) at too high RPMs for your liking then source the smaller housing, that's what i would do. Have you or some of the PO's "tuned" the pump? That can be the cause of black smoke.
But once you get the turbo installed and drive it some you will never want to go back.
Sorry if my gibberish doesn't make any sense, i have hard time making up any sentences. It's midnight in this side of the world right now and i'm tired as...
If the turbo starts making boost (or engine still smokes black) at too high RPMs for your liking then source the smaller housing, that's what i would do. Have you or some of the PO's "tuned" the pump? That can be the cause of black smoke.
But once you get the turbo installed and drive it some you will never want to go back.
Sorry if my gibberish doesn't make any sense, i have hard time making up any sentences. It's midnight in this side of the world right now and i'm tired as...
- Thread starter
- #343
Quick update. I have rebuilt my turbo, and I am now in the process of making flanges to adapt it to the flipped manifold. After some research, i drew up a couple flanges. I have not had them made yet but I will confirm if they are spot on, so that anyone may use the drawings in the future should they need to.
- Thread starter
- #344
Also, some pics of my turbo CHRA prior to rebuild. Need to fab up a down pipe.
- Thread starter
- #345
Quick update. I started working on installing the gauges and such prior to getting down to actually installing the turbo. I had a blue sea fuse box that I intended to install since last year. I will do that and tap into it for power. My truck is 24v and I have a step down installed in my glove box. I will then take power from there to the blue sea. I also have some auxiliary lights that were never connected. The egt and boost gauge require a constant along with a switched hot wire. I drew this diagram in the morning and wanted to get some input from those who are more apt when it comes to electrical circuits. Please see below.
- Thread starter
- #346
So I sat down and realized that the cig lighter is definitely not gonna be up to par to support my standalone circuit so I changed my wiring a bit. I am going to tap into both batteries in parallel to get my 12v feed and I am just going to wire a relay before my fuse block and switch it with the ignition. This way everything will be in order and I will not put any strain on any of the original circuits in the truck.
Looks like your battery - and + are shorted to one another by the red connection between posts? Also, Not sure on your fused 12V coming off each battery. There would be 24V to gnd off the right battery and 12 V to gnd off the left, with the cable going to pin 30 (relay?) shorting the two.
- Thread starter
- #348
Sorry for not showing the proper crossover symbol. Lol, it does look as though I'm shorting the batteries. I however know that I'm not going to. I have upgraded my sketch. Anyhow, assuming I'm not shorting the batteries, I think this will work just fine.
I was pretty sure you wouldnt take a wire and connect the battery terminals
.Not sure I understand what a crossover is though or how it will make it work? As far as I know you can only wire your batteries in series OR parallel, not both at the same time.
On your yellow switched line, I assume this goes through the ignition switch or ? to become switched? I still see the yellow lead off the left battery at 12V and the right battery at 24V referenced to ground shorting the two when they connect through. I would have assumed the only 12V supply should be coming off the 24V-12V stepdown and then you could switch that line with the ignition to get your switched 12V. Everything else looks good!
Very possible I am missing a piece to the puzzle here though and just not understanding.
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- Thread starter
- #350
I see your point exactly. The yellow is the constant needed for stereo memory and the gauges. That line is not switched. I am trying to tap into both batteries in parallel to get 12v to the stereo and such. Then, again I am tapping into the batteries in parallel for my fuse block to get the 12v and I was using a relay to switch it on. The relay gets its signal form the cig lighter. That 24v is first stepped down to 12 prior to switching the relay on. Would this work? Or should I just get voltage into the step down right of the batteries and use a relay to switch the circuit after? I will post a pic of the newly updated diagram.
- Thread starter
- #351
The 24v signal going to the step down would have to be switched, I'm worried about draining the batteries.
- Thread starter
- #352
The new diagram
I see. 24V stereo would sure make life easy!
You could take the 12V from just the left battery in the drawing. This will create an unbalanced load between the two batteries, though be it a small load.... not sure if/how bad it would be but ideally batteries discharge and charge equally when in series like this.
I would maybe consider hiding a small 12V battery somewhere separate, and then trickle charge it whenever the truck is running or with a solar panel. Little messy, but something like this
You could take the 12V from just the left battery in the drawing. This will create an unbalanced load between the two batteries, though be it a small load.... not sure if/how bad it would be but ideally batteries discharge and charge equally when in series like this.
I would maybe consider hiding a small 12V battery somewhere separate, and then trickle charge it whenever the truck is running or with a solar panel. Little messy, but something like this
- Thread starter
- #354
The constant draw is very minimal. I have my mini truck wired like that per stereo manufacturer. I was just trying to draw from both batteries.
- Thread starter
- #355
If I draw from both batteries, is that not a good setup?
- Thread starter
- #356
So From what I understand, I should go with my very first setup I see. Where everything runs off my step down. I asked a coworker friend of mine here (electrician)about that setup and he mentioned that the cig lighter may not be up to par to power my stand alone,(since that's where I tapped for power for my step down). That's why he suggested to grab 12v from both batteries in parallel and put that through a relay. Then every time I turn on the ignition, the system would be on and the batteries would be charging cause truck would be running.
If the Neg of one battery is connected to the positive of the other (sieries to get you 24V) than there is a 12V difference between +post on battery 1 and +post on battery 2. You will weld metal trying to connect the two + teminals (yellow line).
You can take 12V of one battery but not both, as far as I know (I havent played much with 24V auto stuff but lots of industrial electrical).
You can take 12V of one battery but not both, as far as I know (I havent played much with 24V auto stuff but lots of industrial electrical).
The power at your cig lighter should switch a relay only, not power your converter. The relay should switch freshly run power cables directly from battery-->relay than relay-->converter. Hope makes sense?
- Thread starter
- #359
Ok, makes perfect sense. Tap into one only for my constant, run a fresh wire (24v) into the step down, switch it with a relay. Perfect. Thanks for your help. Now I know what to do.
Just to clarify, the constant 12V must come from the first battery in series (the one with neg grounded to frame), otherwise you will have 24V.
