Opinions on Aussie Locker

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What are your impressions of the Aussie Locker? Anyone had one in for a long time? Any parts apparently worn out faster because of the Aussie?

My experience:
I've had my Aussie Rear Locker for about 3,000 miles. It is awesome to have a locker off-road and for $250 you can't beat the price. I have been able to go through a couple muddy wide stream crossings with the locker that I got stuck in before. Before I got it, I was mainly concerned about its on-road manners. It is actually fairly easy to get used to. The ratcheting around corners is quiet and kind of a cool noise. I don't hear it if the windows are rolled up or if I have the radio on. I've only had it really thunk once. Since I live in California, I have to make a lot of U-turns. Those are very easy to do with the Aussie. I can also shift from 1st to 2nd around a corner without the locker doing anything funky.

If I don't accelerate or decelerate smoothly, then it can get a little hurky-jerky. But you just put in the clutch and it goes away. Nothing dangerous just a little annoying. You also have to attend to your tire pressure. They really have to be equal otherwise it will pull one way. Also, right now my engine runs a little rough when it is cold, so when I shift into 2nd while accelerating when the engine is cold, it pulls to the side a little.

My main concern is long term stress on the driveline. Since it is always locked there is feedback up the driveline from the locker. After about a 1,000 miles, there is a weird whirring sound from somewhere in the driveline. Apparently, the sound isn't bad since I'm about the only one that can really hear it. I haven't been able to locate it yet. It may not be related to the Aussie, but there does seem to be added strain on the driveline because the locker is always locked. I don't have any proof just an impression.

At some point in the future, when I have the money, I'll probably replace it with a selectable ARB locker. Although, the Aussie is reassuring because there are no pneumatic lines (or cables, electronic motors, or hydraulic lines) to break.

:beer:

P.S. I have limited wrenching experience and the Aussie is easy to install by yourself.
 
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I have heard nothing bad about the Aussie locker.

I will installl one in my 60 when I get around to it or feel the need for it.

The driving behavious you outline above is with any locker, unless it is a selectable locker, ARB, E-Locker, Ox Locker, etc.
 
I love my aussie, and every rear end of every cruiser I get from now until the end of me will have one. And the warranty is nice too.
 
I love mine. To be honest though I was very worried about installing it. I went through two lockright in my heep. Swore I would not do another locker of this type and would stick to detroit.

Now that I have had my Aussie locker in for a year. I have no complaints. It just stimply performs well.

PP
 
I'm planning on installing an aussie in my 62 next month, and after ingesting all the various feedback, am still planning on and am excited to do so.

I have two questions though that I haven't heard addressed much:

Any difference having an auto locker in an auto trans vs manual?

Any advantage to having the locker in the front instead of the rear? That way it's only being used when you're in 4 wheel, right, which isn't all the time for DD use, and when you're off-road, it'll have the weight of the engine over it to help the front wheels pull you past obstacles? Everyone seems to put it in the rear (ha!), so I though I'd ask.

Cheers,
Nick
 
i ran one in my 60 and one in my 40. as mentioned, you learn to drive to the locker (always accelerate smoothly through a turn, or make sure you have enough momentum to carry you through the turn without touching the accelerator. sharp uturns can be a bit more difficult, but you learn how to do it. a bit more noticable in the 40. barely noticable in the 60. i never had any problems and i've had mine since they came out five years ago or so.
 
Any advantage to having the locker in the front instead of the rear? That way it's only being used when you're in 4 wheel, right, which isn't all the time for DD use, and when you're off-road, it'll have the weight of the engine over it to help the front wheels pull you past obstacles? Everyone seems to put it in the rear (ha!), so I though I'd ask.

I didn't because of the potential to screw up my steering while in 4hi or 4lo. Although with the 2lo modification, it might be more doable. It just seems potential dangerous if say you are in 4hi going down a gravel road around a corner and it locks up when you don't want it to. I guess you would just adjust your driving accordingly. More stress on your components if you are trying to turn with the locker locked. Might upgrade the birfs to longs and the power steering. CruisinFJ60 has his Aussie in the front.

I think Aussie Locker recommends you put it in the front if you are only going to have one.
 
I asked the same question of a guy in our chapter. I have an aussie in the rear, he has front and rear in a 40. He has no complaints. Now, his is not a DD so not sure about the concerns in 4 hi on the road. My 62 is also not a DD so i was more concerned with wheeling characteristics than how the front did on the road say in snow or ice.
 
Would love to hear from somebody running an aussie in the front, especially if they're driving a 62. Also, what if I'm never in 4wd on the highway, only off-road, can the steering really be that much worse, or is it just harder to turn the wheel? The FJ 62 is not terribly nimble on tight trails to begin with so there's that concern, although if the effect of a locked front axle is better than in the rear only I would serious consider it....

Nick
 
True dat -- I remember reading that in his ROTW.

"could hardly feel the axle was draggin with the front locker pullin so nice"

That sounds like high praise to me! But he also says he has a detroit in the back, which is also cool, but I'm hoping for insight into front-only auto-locker experience.....
 
I have one in the back. I do not recall the literature recommending to put one in front if you are only having one in your rig. Mine is a daily driver. I shimmed or put in the thrust washers that made it closer to the thinner tollerance allowed for the warranty spec. Less room for parts to shift. Very little chatter no hop or klunk in uturns, clicking is it. works great on and off road. We have had ice and snow this year in Tulsa and I have had no issues with the rear end spinning or slidding. Do have good tires on it.
 
I have one in the back. I do not recall the literature recommending to put one in front if you are only having one in your rig. Mine is a daily driver...

From the FAQ page on Aussie Lockers: Lockers, aussie lockers, torq-masters technology, automatic positive locking differentials, automatic precision locker differentials, off road, off-road



If only installing one locker should I install in the front or rear?
This is dependent on your personal preference, the type of vehicle, existing diff types, and how you intend to use the vehicle.
We "Do Not" recommend the installation of a locker in the front of a vehicle that will be driven on icy highways in 4WD without manual hubs.

  • If a vehicle has an IFS (Independent Front Suspension) system then the front installation will result in a dramatic increase in 4WD capability. This is because all IFS vehicles have very limited suspension movement (wheel travel and articulation) resulting in easily lifted wheels and a loss of front traction. Installing a front locker will solve the deficiency.
  • If a vehicle has LSD (Limited Slip Differential) in the rear, then a front installation provides a significant improvement over the existing LSD and open diff set-up.
  • If a vehicle has constant 4WD then only a rear installation should be considered.
  • A front installation will usually yield the greatest improvement in off-road capability. This is due to the general requirement of increased in traction under hill climbing or rock crawling. Under full climbing conditions, due to the angle of the vehicle, the rear wheels carry a much greater weight (weight transfer) and therefore, the front carries less weight and tends to break traction very easily.

  • Once one front wheel starts to spin the other wheel stops turning and the whole front diff ceases to provide traction. At this point the load is transferred to the rear diff as if the vehicle was a 2WD and due to the increased load the rear wheels tend to spin and the vehicle stops. If you can stop the front wheel from spinning you have solved the traction problem. In addition to the traction performance a front installation does not introduce any changes in handling characteristics.
 
Aussie's front and back. Have driven it on snow, dry pavement (test), dirt and rocks. To be honest, it's not very noticable at all. I've really had no ill-handling effects. If you wanted to disect the characteristics into very small differences, then I admit there are some, but not enough to land you in the ditch because of an "Evasive Manuver" or somthing. I searched my ass off on opinions before putting one in the front, but finally decided the only way to know for sure was to do one myself. I would do it over again in a second.

In fact, I had TRD electrics front and rear on my SAS `90 4runner and I actually prefer this setup better. When the front is locked with the selectable, you can't steer on any terrain! (Based on my experience anyway)

Gor for it!
 

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