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For a quarter mil i was hoping they would come as std equipment....or at least come with something one could find reasonable tolerable.


Then again id hope for more than a Westin brand double chrome tube bumper on drop brackets :meh:
 
for a quarter mil, youd think it would have matt tracks, or runflats, or a built in butler to change tires for you, or air up/down
 
I lived 30 miles North of Philadelphia for 35 years, I would personally not buy a used car from PA. They use insane amounts of salt on the roads. I used to put a couple lawn sprinklers under my trucks a couple times during winter and every Spring. i also sprayed waste oil under the truck as well. Still got rust.

@NCFJ speaks the truth on this.....
 
probably a repost since it's old, but holy poop:

 
Gents, bought a late 04 F550 this past summer. Knowing what I know now, I bought the truck with blown head gaskets and have been driving it intermittently (not a DD, mostly hauling stuff to the dump, picking up parts, etc.) since then. Yesterday the lower radiator hose popped off (not split, but slid off of the radiator) and dumped coolant. I drove the truck for max 3 miles from where the hose likely popped and where I was going.

Given the fact that I've been driving with blown head gaskets for a few thousand miles, and given the radiator pop scenario articulated above, would your gut instinct be to replace the engine? I am saving up to do the bulletproof (head gaskets, studs, few other things), but am thinking now that due to the length of time and yesterday's assumed overheat, that the head/block is going to be warped anyway. Truck has 215k miles now.

FWIW I put the radiator hose back on, put 4.5 gal of 50/50 back in and kept driving afterwards. Doesn't feel any different than before.

Thoughts?

I'm leaning towards the new engine route. If I go the new engine route I'd go with the Asheville Engine's Performance .20 or .30 over long block and move all the components from the original engine over to the new one. Not looking forward to the $6k bill for an engine from Asheville Engine, but with that new engine I'd be all in to the truck with $14000, so I can't complain I guess. We all know how a project snowballs though.
 
Well, if youre resigned to pull the engine, why not just run it til it blows. You said you dont DD it, so you could go an indefinite period before having to heft the engine, along with the wallet pillaging that goes with it.
 
Well, if youre resigned to pull the engine, why not just run it til it blows. You said you dont DD it, so you could go an indefinite period before having to heft the engine, along with the wallet pillaging that goes with it.

That's what I'm doing now, but I will need a good engine when I start towing cruisers. Last thing I want is to blow the engine up when I've got a cruiser hitched up.


The question is more or less whether or not I should tear the engine apart to have a look see or not to bother and save for the new engine.
 
Gents, bought a late 04 F550 this past summer. Knowing what I know now, I bought the truck with blown head gaskets and have been driving it intermittently (not a DD, mostly hauling stuff to the dump, picking up parts, etc.) since then. Yesterday the lower radiator hose popped off (not split, but slid off of the radiator) and dumped coolant. I drove the truck for max 3 miles from where the hose likely popped and where I was going.

Given the fact that I've been driving with blown head gaskets for a few thousand miles, and given the radiator pop scenario articulated above, would your gut instinct be to replace the engine? I am saving up to do the bulletproof (head gaskets, studs, few other things), but am thinking now that due to the length of time and yesterday's assumed overheat, that the head/block is going to be warped anyway. Truck has 215k miles now.

FWIW I put the radiator hose back on, put 4.5 gal of 50/50 back in and kept driving afterwards. Doesn't feel any different than before.

Thoughts?

I'm leaning towards the new engine route. If I go the new engine route I'd go with the Asheville Engine's Performance .20 or .30 over long block and move all the components from the original engine over to the new one. Not looking forward to the $6k bill for an engine from Asheville Engine, but with that new engine I'd be all in to the truck with $14000, so I can't complain I guess. We all know how a project snowballs though.

Random thoughts ....

Almost everything I've heard related to the 6.0 was head gasket failures were mostly due to TTY bolts and that the blocks and heads were fairly robust but that with added miles the heads will crack and warp.

If you are of the opinion the bottom end is healthy (??) that would mean for about $1200 you can have a new set of bare heads ($1800 complete), $1200 for bullet proof stud kit, and another $500 for "stuff", and with you being a "do it yourself" dude .... you're on the road for $3500.
 
TTY head bolts, coolant that produced precipitate, clogged oil coolers causing exploding EGR coolers, the list goes on, but all the problems were due to Ford's modifications to the Navistar 365 design. The head and block themselves are robust.

I worded my post poorly, but the question is more or less about the bottom end and this overheat event. Is this engine worth putting $3500 into or should I kick in another $2500 and be good to go for the next 250k miles, with much more power to boot.


The root of the question is: for a truck engine that had a catastrophic cooling system failure (split radiator, blown hoses, etc.) would you trust that block and do the other repairs needed or would you go forward with a new engine, assuming high miles?


The goal is to have a dead-nuts reliable tow rig. Trying to assess my risk with an engine that's got 215k miles, an unknown service history and at least one catastrophic cooling system failure, likely more than one.



The guys on the powerstroke forums don't seem to think it's a big deal, that I should just put heads on it. Maybe I'm over thinking this.
 
I got nothing Johnny.......just a spectator on the sidelines when it comes to the hard stuff......:popcorn:
 
I think you know which way you're leaning - so I'll push you in that direction. Go with a new motor.
 
I think you know which way you're leaning - so I'll push you in that direction. Go with a new motor.

It's hard to say no when you've got performance builds (bored .030 over) with "stage 2" camshafts for $6k. This is the easy way to get 450hp out of a 6.0 :steer:

Check this out:
Asheville Engine Rebuilders - Home
 
Since it's your money (damn! now Laura's, too), I vote new engine. Tell her I'm sorry. Peace of mind for my .02 but you have way more knowledge and skills than I ever will. Example: You say "engine" but then say "long block" and talk of moving components. My mind has a new engine including the block and all of the parts you'd need. I'm clearly uneducated in these matters.

On a different note, I'm thinking blacksmith might be a good new career for me. No need to have mechanical or electrical knowledge. Just beat hot metal until it's the thing you need.
 
You still got to make it look like what youre trying for.... or be good at selling "art"
 
The root of the question is: for a truck engine that had a catastrophic cooling system failure (split radiator, blown hoses, etc.) would you trust that block and do the other repairs needed or would you go forward with a new engine, assuming high miles?

James is right. This is where you answered your question. Until the bottom end is replaced you will remain in doubt.
 
Is that $6k with your core?
 

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