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We're heading to the GAA auction tomorrow (Fri)
Anyone else heading that way?
 
No, but that 89 single cab striped n capped yota ❤️
 
There were a couple nice Toyotas there yesterday. We had a great time, a lot of nice cars and trucks this time. Kelly, works for my wife and is married to the guy that works with me, found her inner VW Bug lover! She was all over every Bug there, and there were quite a few. There was an Austin Healy 3000 and a Jag XK that were to die for, but that's just me :)
 
There were a couple nice Toyotas there yesterday. We had a great time, a lot of nice cars and trucks this time. Kelly, works for my wife and is married to the guy that works with me, found her inner VW Bug lover! She was all over every Bug there, and there were quite a few. There was an Austin Healy 3000 and a Jag XK that were to die for, but that's just me :)
Not just you. I have a soft spot for little British cars too.
 
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I have a soft spot for roadsters. British iron is about my favorite. Although my recent interest have gone German :)
 
Ready for concrete. 400' of rebar including 21 epoxied dowels.

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The slab spec is by Mohawk for their 20k two post lift. It's 5000psi concrete as well, min spec was 4000psi.

If I can fit the truck in the garage on the lift I'll have a lift that can lift it. If not I'll stick with my current 8k two post, then use it for the cruiser and everything smaller than that.

Its curing very well. I'm very happy.

PXL_20240831_220622845.jpg
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If you throw burlap on it and keep it wet, it'll cure more slowly and is less apt to crack.
 
I'm not sure you can get one of these in your garage...
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That's a beast, though
 
On the upside, if you can get it up to the ceiling, it'll raise the roof.
 
It's 12" thick of 5000psi concrete with 400' of rebar mat and dowels, with concrete bonding adhesive to mate the old and new. If the original 3" garage floor with wire mesh in the bottom 1/4" didn't crack, this is not going to crack, lol.

I did wet it down a few times yesterday, but it was dry enough to walk on by saturday morning. Lightning fast, I assume because it is 5000psi. It heated the garage up to almost 90* overnight Friday into Saturday as it was going though the initial cure. Water evaporated off the surface in less than 10 minutes each time I wetted it. I was surprised.

I literally raised the roof the winter before last in prep for the lift, and raised the doors/rebuilt the wall this past winter. Long ass series of projects to get to the point of being able to install a lift!
 
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As for the overkill-ness, since I had to cut the floor anyway, I figured why not go whole hog with it. I did all the work, so there wasn't much additional cost between pouring 6" VS pouring 12" with some more rebar.

Also, Mohawk specs call out either dowels or a 6" key-in, so I did both, lol.
 
As for the overkill-ness, since I had to cut the floor anyway, I figured why not go whole hog with it. I did all the work, so there wasn't much additional cost between pouring 6" VS pouring 12" with some more rebar.

Also, Mohawk specs call out either dowels or a 6" key-in, so I did both, lol.
Al Copone in there? Asking for Geraldo
 
It's 12" thick of 5000psi concrete with 400' of rebar mat and dowels, with concrete bonding adhesive to mate the old and new. If the original 3" garage floor with wire mesh in the bottom 1/4" didn't crack, this is not going to crack, lol.

I did wet it down a few times yesterday, but it was dry enough to walk on by saturday morning. Lightning fast, I assume because it is 5000psi. It heated the garage up to almost 90* overnight Friday into Saturday as it was going though the initial cure. Water evaporated off the surface in less than 10 minutes each time I wetted it. I was surprised.

I literally raised the roof the winter before last in prep for the lift, and raised the doors/rebuilt the wall this past winter. Long ass series of projects to get to the point of being able to install a lift!
Heat is a bad thing for concrete curing. You want it to be cold, because the curing process is exothermal - it creates its own heat. Keep it as cold and wet as you can. I've seen large pours where they replace the water with ice, just to keep the temperature down.

When I was doing civil engineering work, we used to have to have observers onsite during the summer when concrete was being placed, just to make sure the contractors were keeping the concrete wet and cool. They'd ignore it as soon as you turned your back and then when the customer called and said it cracked months later, they'd want proof no one drive a semi over it.
 

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