Onesprung60: 1967 FJ40 Frame Off Restore

[cruiseroutfit]

So glad this project went to not only a good home but someone capable of finishing the project the way it deserved to be finished, this thing will be sweet! Glad the wheel cylinders worked out nicely, let me know if there is anything else I can assist with.

On the hardware you sourced for the leaf spring pin retainers, were they short enough as sourced or did you have to shorten them a tad? The part number from Toyota seems to superseded to a longer bolt so I've been stuck shortening them. I'm sure they are available somewhere but I haven't spent much time looking.

 

[onesprung60]

So glad this project went to not only a good home but someone capable of finishing the project the way it deserved to be finished, this thing will be sweet! Glad the wheel cylinders worked out nicely, let me know if there is anything else I can assist with.

On the hardware you sourced for the leaf spring pin retainers, were they short enough as sourced or did you have to shorten them a tad? The part number from Toyota seems to superseded to a longer bolt so I've been stuck shortening them. I'm sure they are available somewhere but I haven't spent much time looking.

Thanks again for the cylinder kits, worked perfect.

As for the spring pin hardware they are short enough. I used 8mm bolts that were 16mm long and with a lock washer they are the perfect length.

 

[onesprung60]

A few more small things done. The steering gear box is re-sealed and painted, the input shaft pre-load is all set, but I am waiting to set the sector shaft pre-load until its mounted on the frame; should be a little easier that way. The steering center arm is all painted and ready to get put back together and installed as well, may be able to get that done tonight.

Steering gear box:

 

[onesprung60]

Steering center arm in progress:

 

[onesprung60]

Also ran into a small snag. The rear diff pinion seal was leaking a little. I assumed the PO had replaced the pinion seal, but once I pulled the flange off I saw that is was the old seal. I thought that would be the only issue, but once I inspected the pinion flange I found the root cause of the leak. It must have got a little water on the seal surface at some time and it has rust pitted the pinion flange's sealing surface, I tried to polish it out but its pretty deep; a lot deeper than I can safely sand out. So now I need to source a good flange. I think I can find one local pretty easily, if not I will look for one here. I could always speedi-sleeve it as well, but I would rather find a good used one.

Rust pitted seal surface:

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks again for the cylinder kits, worked perfect.

As for the spring pin hardware they are short enough. I used 8mm bolts that were 16mm long and with a lock washer they are the perfect length.

Right on. Do you remember which source you got those from? My normal zinc metric suppliers don't have anything shorter than 20mm. I know Aveco used to do a 16mm but I can't find the part number.

I should have a good used flange in stock if you end up needing one. Confirm the pattern and I'll check tomorrow.

 

[onesprung60]

Right on. Do you remember which source you got those from? My normal zinc metric suppliers don't have anything shorter than 20mm. I know Aveco used to do a 16mm but I can't find the part number.

I should have a good used flange in stock if you end up needing one. Confirm the pattern and I'll check tomorrow.

I got the bolts from NEWCO PRODUCTS FASTENERS & INDUSTRIAL SUPPLIES

A little pricey, but they are JIS dimensions and yellow zinc. Au-ve-co shows a good part number for 8mmx16mm, but they were back-ordered when I put in my au-ve-co order.

Great service from newco, and the guy I spoke to said he is a supplier to TLC4x4 and SOR. Also, he doesn't list everything he has on his site, but he said he can get pretty much any fastener that came on a Cruiser.

I may need a few other things with the flange, I will give you a call in the next day or two if I need it.

Thanks,

 

[Walton]

Subscribed! Bitchin job sprung, I love anal attention to detail work.

 

[Coolerman]

Wow! Been away from regular MUD reading the past couple of months and just caught this thread.
Beautiful work. Those Warn hubs look new! Also great find on the fastener supplier. Now we know why SOR prices are so high on fasteners.
A bit late but, there is also a MUD member selling nut and bolt kits that are yellow zinc and period correct. Look at the Nut and Bolt thread.

 

[onesprung60]

Wow! Been away from regular MUD reading the past couple of months and just caught this thread.
Beautiful work. Those Warn hubs look new! Also great find on the fastener supplier. Now we know why SOR prices are so high on fasteners.
A bit late but, there is also a MUD member selling nut and bolt kits that are yellow zinc and period correct. Look at the Nut and Bolt thread.

Thanks for the kind words, and a huge thanks for the work you did on the bolt thread and the spreadsheet, its been a huge help for me on this project.

I would have liked to buy my bolts from a mud member, but he is all out of stock and I needed to get bolts to start anything.

 

[subzali]

A question on the nut/bolt mud member, and/or the au-ve-co or newco suppliers you have been dealing with - aren't Cruiser fasteners supplied with captured washers in a lot of cases? Are these suppliers able to provide fasteners with captured washers just like the OEM application?

 

[2fpower]

On the pinion seal, I had the same issue, but bought the heavy duty pinion seal (from Kurt I believe), anyway, the seal had two sealing surfaces, instead of the stock single seal. This new seal position appeared to be inside the pitting damaged area on mine.

I can't figure out what I am more impressed with:

1. The perfection of your build

2. The perfect clean (and organization) of your shop

Either way great build. I am working on my 68 (build Nov 67') now also, so watching very closely.

FYI, I just got a seal today for the steering column from SOR on advice from MUD. The 3 on tree seal is not available anymore, however, the standard gasket is formed the exact same. All you just have to punch out the spot that is already marked on the gasket for the shifter rod.

 

[onesprung60]

A question on the nut/bolt mud member, and/or the au-ve-co or newco suppliers you have been dealing with - aren't Cruiser fasteners supplied with captured washers in a lot of cases? Are these suppliers able to provide fasteners with captured washers just like the OEM application?

The stuff I got from Au-Ve-Co all has captured washers and indented heads just like OEM, but they are only available in limited sizes. Newco can get captured washer stuff as well. What you are looking for are called SEMS. Sometimes I wish I lived in an Aisian country where I could walk into a hardware store and actually get some of this stuff. You would think I am speaking a different language when I walk into the local nut and bolt places to find some hardware.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

The stuff I got from Au-Ve-Co all has captured washers and indented heads just like OEM, but they are only available in limited sizes. Newco can get captured washer stuff as well. What you are looking for are called SEMS. Sometimes I wish I lived in an Aisian country where I could walk into a hardware store and actually get some of this stuff. You would think I am speaking a different language when I walk into the local nut and bolt places to find some hardware.

x2 on the SEMS available at Au-Ve-Co, quality stuff. I just looked back over their catalog and found the 16mm stuff, but it sounds like Newco is the call I need to make. Thanks Will!

 

[onesprung60]

I had a good night in the garage tonight. I temporarily installed the steering links (powder coater still has the clamps), the steering box is on the frame and the freeplay is adjusted, just have to add oil and tighten the pitman arm down, brake lines for the front circuit are all painted and installed, the engine is resting on the frame, I have an issue there that I have a question about in a later post, and I got the transfer case and transmission torn down and ready for cleaning, paint and bead blasting.

So some pics-

Steering box on the frame, some brake lines and the engine hanging and ready to set on the frame:

 

[onesprung60]

Transmission and T-case, before and after:

 

[onesprung60]

Now a question and a little help. The motor mount bracket on the passenger side is too long, I believe its the bracket that was with the original F engine. I don't have the bracket from the 2F, but it was for a 60 so it would have had the mounts for the A/C compressor and may have been too long as well.

So I need to track down the right mount to make this work. I think I can find one in town if I know what to ask/look for. The frame is a '67, the engine is an '84 2F. What year would have the correct bracket to make this fit?

A pic from the front and from the top, it looks like its about an inch too long; and its just a test fit, I plan to paint the motor mounts and get rid of the adhesive that was left from the part number sticker.

Thanks for the help,

 

[3jvj]

WOW. Beautiful work! Thank you for the detail and documentation of your work. Subscribed.

 

[Utahfj62]

No update in 2 days? WTF? Get working wil-I-am - MTB season is coming soon....

 

[71FJ40]

Steering center arm in progress:

Absolutely gorgeous work!

On the center arm, where did you get the rebuild kit?
What did you think of the quality?

Any further rebuild pics of the center arm will be greatly appreciated!