One was not enough...introducing Luigi (1 Viewer)

[suadero]

After we got back from Panama in one piece, my mom took out our 80 for a spin and said that she wanted one to leave at the cabin - replacing a 2000 Ford Exploder. Since I had time this fall to look into it, I agreed to source her one and take care of it.

After an intensive, coast-to-coast search (of the internet)...I give you LUIGI. Slightly older than Mario (93 vs 94), 20k more miles, and slightly taller (via the roof rack that Mario doesn't have), but other than that...visual twins. (Well, okay, Mario has more dents...err...character.)

(Some background: I have two year old twin nephews - when they were on the way, my wife jokingly suggested that my sister name them Mario and Luigi - shockingly this was a no-go. This is almost as good.)

Along with Mario, who valiantly took us to Panama and is currently taking us through New England and Quebec, Luigi will be mostly used for beach runs, boat towing, and the occasional ORV trail.

The catch - I have not yet seen Luigi in person (bought from a dealer in VA), so it's going to be a bit of a treasure hunt w/r/t what I need to do to get it up to speed. Since Luigi was almost always serviced at a dealer, I know via Carfax and Toyota Owners a lot about what the PO did and did not do.

Starter was replaced twice, most recently two years ago. Brake fluid, belts, VC gasket and wires were done in a similar time frame. PO had a tendency not to do brake pads often enough, so I may be in for a new set of front rotors (one or more of the rear rotors, calipers, and pads, as well as the front pads were recently done - but none of the rear stuff at a dealer, so need to have a look).

I think the tires may have been done one at a time, too, so I may have a stop at a tire dealer coming.

On the plus side, oil and filter look to have been done regularly, and mostly at the dealer. New radiator in '08. There was a fuel injector service(!) performed in 2014, about 23,000 miles ago. (I wish I'd had this kind of info about Mario.) Interior is decent looking oak cloth.

If nothing else it'll be a heck of a parts rig. Now, who wants to buy that fishing rod rack?

 

[suadero]

 

[baldilocks]

Looks like a good scoe!

 

[musthave]

Wow! Congratulations! You must have a great job

 

[suadero]

No job is the correct answer. Saved my pennies for a year of freedom...

 

[suadero]

So, quick update. Picked up LUIGI last Wednesday in Norfolk, VA. Big sigh of relief to note that the engine and body appear as good as advertised. There is plenty to do, however!

In addition to what I mentioned above ($2000+ in dealer service in the last 2-3 years), the PO appears to have:
Bought a new AAA/Interstate battery recently (my savings: $150)
Kept or installed a new OEM brass radiator (my savings: $300)
Installed a new windshield (mixed blessing but my savings: $200+)
New wiper blades (savings: $30)
All lightbulbs work (savings: $10)

Work so far:
Was low on coolant when I bought it - bought some Zerex red coolant ($15) as that's what it was running before. (Mario runs green, ironically.)
Detailed - $125 (a place in Philly which I think could have done a better job, but it was nasty, and now it's at least better.)
Pulled off driver kick panel and drain plug to dry out floorboards - believe the sunroof leaks.
Drove 150+ miles with the charcoal canister-to-VSV fuel line disconnected. Truck didn't seem to mind.
Scared the crap out of myself by activating a remote start capability I didn't know about.
Removed aftermarket alarm/remote start (Viper 550ESP - anyone want this?)
Removed alarm brain and pigtail from original Toyota alarm that had been left in the car (make me an offer or will trade for CDL switch.)
Removed plastic window guard things, front wind spoiler and a fishing rod rack that was drilled into the roof rack.
Removed all speakers (except Dash R, haven't opened that panel yet). The big ones were all way rotted.
Got VIN key cut ($10) at Orleans Toyota, works like a charm. It took True Value three tries to duplicate it ($4).
DEPO mirror ($60) - probably the old one just needs some glue, so now I have a spare
AM Autoparts regulator ($50) - old one was seized, motor was fine - another spare.
Fixed trip odo by pushing the button a bunch of times.
Ordered a cover as one of the two Cruisers will winter outside.

What it needs:
Usual tune up (parts on order: PCV valve, grommet, hose, hose #2; cabin air filter; distributor cap, rotor, O-ring; TB gasket; belts; plugs; plug seals) ~$180
May be an exhaust leak. I am going to delete PAIR (~$20 in parts) as a first step in case those gaskets are at fault for some reason. The exhaust is the only really rusty thing on the car, so I may have to replace the system.
It's a federal spec truck, so I just need to reverse some vac hoses to disable EGR.
Both PS windows are out of their regulators, need to figure out how to get them back in. Any recommendations besides new fillers, or tips for reassembly? May go to an auto glass store for this.
DS front lock actuator is toast.
Sunroof seal or drain ream.
Front birf service (clicking)
Shocks and probably springs (squeak, squeak, squeak)
Stereo - CD LCD doesn't work, and on/off capability is dead, but volume works, radio works, and CD plays about half of the CDs I throw at it. Will also replace front door speakers ($30, ordered) and S/W (since I already have one on hand).
Clock is not working
Alignment - e.g. steering wheel is not vertical while driving straight
Destickering - remains of original Toyota alarm sticker on back window and several others.
Will replace all vac lines, soft fuel hoses and (eventually) coolant hoses.

 

[suadero]

OK, turns out it needs a new distributor too as there's oil inside the current one that shouldn't be there. (My first clue: The bottom plug wire, just a few years old, was gunked on to the cap so much that I couldn't get it off until the cap was off.)

 

[suadero]

This should be underlined somewhere besides this wonderful thread. Although the distributor assembly is something like $440 (best online price I've found), you can order the "housing" (just the actual distributor) 19235-66020 and a "rotor packing" (seal between housing and cap) 19127-66020 for ~$210 total. (That price is low enough to keep me away from the world of aftermarket and/or used!) Not sure where that other $230 in cost comes from - even if you ordered a rotor, cap and O-ring too, that would only add about $25.

Also ordered the filler/weather seal for the window regulators front/rear PS ($14 for both). Let's see if I can get those windows working again w/o a professional intervention...

 

[Kernal]

Consider an improperly installed windshield as the source of the wet carpets. Test with a garden hose pouring water over sections of the windshield (lower L, R, Center, upper, L, R, Center) at a time while someone else watches with a bright flashlight for the drips to appear under the dash or behind the kickpanels.

 

[suadero]

Consider an improperly installed windshield as the source of the wet carpets. Test with a garden hose pouring water over sections of the windshield (lower L, R, Center, upper, L, R, Center) at a time while someone else watches with a bright flashlight for the drips to appear under the dash or behind the kickpanels.

That is certainly plausible, however the rear carpet was equally if not more wet than the front.

 

[suadero]

Here's the engine bay the other day before I started pulling stuff out and cleaning. Was happy to have a sticker on the engine as Mario doesn't have one.

Here's a novel way to try and keep the mirror in place. I don't really recommend it.

 

[suadero]

A lot more work done today:

-I inspected the exhaust in hopes of locating the probable leak. The system is rusty but had no evident holes. HOWEVER, I did find that the innermost O2 sensor was not installed properly - no gasket and no nuts, meaning it was just kind of hanging out there on the studs. Really odd. Fortunately I had an extra gasket, and I harvested the appropriate nuts from the PAIR system ports in the engine bay. I had a look at the other sensor, and I am not sure I see a gasket there either, but it is at least fastened.

-PAIR is now deleted. Not that difficult to do. I used these parts:

17376-66010 (2) GASKET AIR TUBE NO

17148-41010 (2) PLATE EXHAUST MANIF

90339-03002 (1) PLUG [for the vacuum line]

Something (TBD size of boat drain plug probably) to plug the air box.

Two of the extant nuts I reused, and two of them that had held the stainless tubing onto the valve assembly were brought down to the other blocking plate studs to replace those I moved to the O2 sensor. As they are a different type I will keep an eye on them to ensure they don't come loose.

I debated between the air tube gasket type (which was what was there for PAIR) and the oxygen sensor gasket type, but ultimately decided in favor of the air tube gasket. Let's see how they work, I can always change them later.

After that was finished, the throttle body came off, then the valve cover. (I elected not to remove the heating valve and associated hoses this time, but rather shove it out of the way. Probably will need some attention before too long.) The VC gasket was still in good shape from its installation a couple years back, though the dealer that did the work did zero in the way of surrounding oil leak cleanup.

The plug seals were a different story than the gasket! Brittle to the point of disintegration - one of them even dropped a piece into the engine, which I was lucky enough to fish out with some hemostat clamps. Glad I ordered new ones - they went in, as well as a new PCV valve and grommet. I got the old grommet and PCV out easier this time than with Mario, but clearly the last person who did this didn't have as much luck, as the bottom half of yet another grommet fell out of the valve cover when I turned it over and shook.

The valves are much cleaner in this engine than in Mario's. Not nearly as much burnt oil. What is there and burnt is in front near the leaky distributor, which makes sense I guess. A contrast to the outside of the engine which was MUCH dirtier than when I got Mario. Probably it will always look worse, but I did my best to clean the valve cover up a bit before reinstalling.

Btw, you can add another thing to the list of possible EGR melt casualties. Luigi is a federal '93, which means no EGR temp sensor, but instead the harness has a loopback plug. This loopback plug/harness plug combination was wedged next to the EGR pipe, probably for 23 years, and melted - see last 3 photos. I gather it's still working electrically so I won't mess with it, but yikes. Needless to say my EGR will be bypassed when I put everything back together.

VC is back on now. Tomorrow is plugs, putting the TB back, possibly reassembling the air intake, and possibly also doing belts.

 

[suadero]

Previous air filter was intended for a 3FE, judging by the part number.

 

[suadero]

More fun and games today - did spark plugs and buttoned up the wires and wire covers at the engine side. Guess it was time for these plugs to get changed - yuck!

Also soldered the new speakers (Pioneer 1645, which have dropped in price by 40% since I bought them for Mario, as well as one of my extra PPI Phantoms for S/W) into their respective wire harnesses. Ready to drop in any time now. Finally, I took off the A/C belt and tensioner, as well as (finally!) got the alternator to move so that I could change those belts too. I failed on the alternator bolts on Mario in September, so it was nice when that final bolt on the underside of the alternator moved this time. FWIW I used a 12mm Gearwrench and got it loose from below - the 14mm Gearwrench was also handy for getting the top bolt. Replaced the A/C tensioner bearing while I was in there as a PM - no press, but I used a hammer and socket to bang the old one out, and the old one and a hammer to press the new one in. Old one is red below.

New distributor & rotor packing and new window fillers will be here hopefully Saturday to finish up. This is what a distributor that's been leaking oil all over the engine bay looks like inside, btw. (taken before I started belt work)

I am considering going to a garage to get the oil pan gasket redone, the leak underneath may be more vigorous than I'm comfortable with leaving alone.

 

[suadero]

Finished up the engine bay today for the most part. New belts are on and tightened - thanks to this thread for the pictures of the FSM in context: Adjusting belt tension on an 80 - good tool

Couldn't have done it without 12mm and 14mm Gearwrenches - those things are lifesavers. Also the krikit belt tension gauge - glad I ordered this earlier this year, because I needed it for sure.

New distributor came in as well and is mounted and working well. The old one was just absolutely buried in oil/dirt goo, both from the O-ring being old and crap, and from the leak inside the distributor. New one is nice and clean! BTW, the "housing" that I ordered came with a new O-ring - making it even more mystifying why the "kit" - which only adds the cap, rotor and packing - costs so much more.

I also replaced the fuel hoses that abut the charcoal canister, and before buttoning up the air intake, I disabled EGR.

Drove it around a while tonight and it sounds pretty good - a little bit of metallic tang sound from the new distributor, which I assume is getting used to its new gearing partner (and the new gearing partner is getting used to the distributor gear not being covered in burnt oil goo). Possibly should have oiled it before install. Other than that, it positively purrs. I think there is a small benefit as well, sound-wise, to deleting PAIR.

Going to check if it's still leaking oil from the pan tomorow morning - it's possible that the new PCV valve and hoses, as well as the general tune-up, have lessened the pressure and thus the leak. I could almost watch it drip previously, and when I brought it back to the garage that wasn't the case, at least immediately.

Also, fixing the o2 sensor did not entirely eliminate the exhaust leak - I need to get under there and see what's amiss, but I expect there is some kind of corrosion leak. Also there is a metallic rattle in the region of the cats, particularly noticeable as they warm up.

I still am planning to try and fix the windows - the new fillers came today with the distributor - and there are new speakers to install. Also I didn't screw down the battery box or battery properly, so have to do that. The PS side of the radiator has come loose from its retaining bracket, so need to repair that. Also have to decide whether I want to tackle the dreaded PHH - it looks like, at nearly 200k miles, that it's original. I need to be done with all projects next weekend latest (leaving MA for the season), so I have to weigh how much more I want to bite off in that time frame.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Finished up the engine bay today for the most part. New belts are on and tightened - thanks to this thread for the pictures of the FSM in context: Adjusting belt tension on an 80 - good tool

Couldn't have done it without 12mm and 14mm Gearwrenches - those things are lifesavers. Also the krikit belt tension gauge - glad I ordered this earlier this year, because I needed it for sure.

New distributor came in as well and is mounted and working well. The old one was just absolutely buried in oil/dirt goo, both from the O-ring being old and crap, and from the leak inside the distributor. New one is nice and clean! BTW, the "housing" that I ordered came with a new O-ring - making it even more mystifying why the "kit" - which only adds the cap, rotor and packing - costs so much more.

I also replaced the fuel hoses that abut the charcoal canister, and before buttoning up the air intake, I disabled EGR.

Drove it around a while tonight and it sounds pretty good - a little bit of metallic tang sound from the new distributor, which I assume is getting used to its new gearing partner (and the new gearing partner is getting used to the distributor gear not being covered in burnt oil goo). Possibly should have oiled it before install. Other than that, it positively purrs. I think there is a small benefit as well, sound-wise, to deleting PAIR.

Going to check if it's still leaking oil from the pan tomorow morning - it's possible that the new PCV valve and hoses, as well as the general tune-up, have lessened the pressure and thus the leak. I could almost watch it drip previously, and when I brought it back to the garage that wasn't the case, at least immediately.

Also, fixing the o2 sensor did not entirely eliminate the exhaust leak - I need to get under there and see what's amiss, but I expect there is some kind of corrosion leak. Also there is a metallic rattle in the region of the cats, particularly noticeable as they warm up.

I still am planning to try and fix the windows - the new fillers came today with the distributor - and there are new speakers to install. Also I didn't screw down the battery box or battery properly, so have to do that. The PS side of the radiator has come loose from its retaining bracket, so need to repair that. Also have to decide whether I want to tackle the dreaded PHH - it looks like, at nearly 200k miles, that it's original. I need to be done with all projects next weekend latest (leaving MA for the season), so I have to weigh how much more I want to bite off in that time frame.

View attachment 1340514

Do you have part numbers for the distributor parts? When I pulled my cap tonight I noticed there was a little bit of oil settle at the bottom... UGH.

 

[suadero]

Sure:
19235-66020 Housing [aka the actual distributor]
19127-66020 Rotor Packing [the seal]

Mine came with the O-ring but in case you want an extra:
90099-14118 Housing O-Ring

In case you are vendor flexible, I have had extremely good luck and very low prices from www.toyotaonlineparts.com.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Sure:
19235-66020 Housing [aka the actual distributor]
19127-66020 Rotor Packing [the seal]

Mine came with the O-ring but in case you want an extra:
90099-14118 Housing O-Ring

In case you are vendor flexible, I have had extremely good luck and very low prices from www.toyotaonlineparts.com.

Thanks. I buy from Beno or my local dealer. Both treat me well.

 

[suadero]

Today's action was somewhat limited in results. I put in the DS speaker and tested the PS, though I had to take the latter out again to work on the windows. I also removed, cleaned, and reinstalled both PS rear and front window run channels. However, I was unable to get the glass back into the regulator, even with the new filler rubber that I ordered. Annoying! Will take it to an auto glass place and see if they can do better, unless someone has 'one weird trick' to fix this. The DS rear window is properly connected to its regulator, but running really slow, so I need to take that run channel out as well and clean it. It seems like the PO only cared about the front DS window, probably because that one has to work to pass VA inspection...

Also did a test swap of the door controller between my LCs - confirmed that Luigi has a bad DS front door lock actuator, the controllers are both seemingly fine. It's an expensive part so I will be trying to find one from a part-out or pick a part.

At least it was a nice day at the ocean!

 

[suadero]

Got the exhaust fixed today - there was a hole under one of the heat shields in front of the o2 sensors. $300 for 409 stainless with o2 bungs, was done in an hour and a half at a place called Lou's Custom Exhaust. Sounds and smells much better now that it's not leaking. Good news is that they looked into the cats and they are clean, so hopefully I'll avoid any costs there in the near future.

I also stopped by an auto glass place to see if they could get the PS windows working properly. No dice on some quick efforts, I have an appointment Wednesday morning for a full disassembly/reassembly.

After I got home, I cleaned out DS rear run channel - that window runs slowly now, but at least it runs. And I took off the center console and shift cover to vacuum - the amount of crap under there was gross, but not surprising. A lot of petrified grime in odd corners with this one.

Lastly, I made it to Linnell Landing Beach to see a sunset!