Adjusting belt tension on an 80 - good tool

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e9999 said:
I don't have one so I'm guessing here but it seems to me that this tool just sits on top of the belt without grabbing it and you basically deflect the belt a certain amount until it clicks and then "measure" the force needed to do that. Is that not so? If it is, that is not the same principle as the pro deflection tools mentioned in the FSM. And even if it were, if the span used is not the same the numbers would not be comparable, seems to me, cuz I think the span matters a lot for deflection. I'll admit I'm no belt expert, though. But until I know better, seems to me that this gizmo gives you a number all right but I don't see how you can use the FSM numbers with this particular gizmo with any level of quantitative confidence.
I'll readily admit that this is more fun than just pushing on the belt with your finger, though.
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I'm not a belt expert either, but the folks at Gates are and they came up with this device. The forces specified in the FSM do not specify force @ span, it's just force. The tool does not measure deflection, you can use a tape measure for that, in fact other vehicles I've owned do specify a specific amount of deflection measured for proper adjustment. This tool measures the force applied to the belt like a clicking torque wrench. Gates has a video on it's use, I watched it before I purchased the tool and they compared it to a digital, professional tool in a couple of different scenarios and it was within something like 5% of the values obtained with the pro tool.
 
Dissent said:
Toyota spec isn't too tight. Remember that it takes 35 HP to in an A/C compressor and 5-15 HP to run an alternator. That means quality belt tension and solid pulley contact to turn those devices. Beyond the factory spec, you could definitely put undue stress on the bearings. Use the gauge and stay in spec. :)
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It does not take 35hp to run a compressor and unless the alternator is fully loaded, I doubt it takes even 5 to spin that.
 
I got mine today. At first, I couldn't figure out how it was supposed to work. The instructions are not great, but you can figure it out.

Put the tool on the belt after you reset the lever. You press on the black pad with your finger. The loop is so you don't drop it if you have to reach way in somewhere. It has a click very much like a torque wrench, and you stop. When you stop, the lever has been displaced by a certain amount. You pull the tool out and read the value.

My belts both read on the way low end of the scale. They are very loose, but they aren't slipping either. I will tighten them and see how this tool works, but not tonight. I like the tool so far. It looks like it should be able to give me a good idea where I'm at. I'll probably adjust on the low side of spec unless it's a new belt.
 
nukegoat said:
It does not take 35hp to run a compressor and unless the alternator is fully loaded, I doubt it takes even 5 to spin that.
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Maybe not in 2015 but back in 1985 the A/C was a major suck and racing folks actually disconnected their alternators to gain HP. Our trucks are much closer to 1985 tech than 2015 tech. I'd say there's a safe 20 HP loss on A/C, at least on startup, and at least 5 HP on the alternator. I know the HP draw from an A/C system in my 1972 air cooled VW was enough to make a boat anchor out of my puny 36HP motor. :)

My point is not the specific values but that these devices are belt driven and require proper belt tension to drive them.
 
LS1FJ40 said:
Shows you, I don't have AC! :flipoff2:
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No doubt. Im sure it would get annoying quick to be using the AC button to effectively shut off the engine. The HP loss would be too great. It's bad enough you suffer with the vampire alternator. I can only imagine what life is like wishing you could rip out the PS pump just so that you can get out of your own way pulling out of the gas station to get dinner :flipoff2:
 
Ordered it, I replaced belts recently and my calibrated thumb could be out of spec:

 
Great. Something else to buy.

:bang:
 
awesome tip ! I am getting one today ! Thanks !!!!
 
Purchased on Ebay for $14.06 Free Shipping.
Land Cruiser guys are a picky bunch.
We eat our rice with chopsticks, not spoons!

"WHY YOU NOT KNOW BELT TENSION!!"
 
What's the recommended +/- lbs. for the belts on an FZJ?
 
NLXTACY said:
No doubt. Im sure it would get annoying quick to be using the AC button to effectively shut off the engine. The HP loss would be too great. It's bad enough you suffer with the vampire alternator. I can only imagine what life is like wishing you could rip out the PS pump just so that you can get out of your own way pulling out of the gas station to get dinner :flipoff2:
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Have you ever even driven a 3FE?! I'm sure you have. Unlike 90% of the people that knock it. Honestly, there is barely a difference (in acceleration, not fear of blowing a head gasket or melting a wire harness) between a stock 1FZ-FE and a 3FE. Both are gutless wonders! :flipoff2:

And don't you know that the rust in the Midwest is to make the 80 lighter weight for the 3FE? Mr. T design!
 
I tightened mine last night. They were waaay loose. I was too scared of over tightening when I swapped them. I'd rather have damaged belts than bad bearings.

I removed the SC belt and dropped the front skid. Everything was accessible after that.

Used alternator belts: 45 - 88.2 lbft
Used AC belt: 60 - 100 lbft
 
Specs for AC Belt

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I have a feeling mine are way under tensioned, that's what I get for paying someone else to do the work.....this was long ago though.
 
I have a Borrowghts .. not that expensive neither, but kinda bulky to perform a clear measurement in the belt ..
 
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