One was not enough...introducing Luigi

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suadero said:
A lot more work done today:

-I inspected the exhaust in hopes of locating the probable leak. The system is rusty but had no evident holes. HOWEVER, I did find that the innermost O2 sensor was not installed properly - no gasket and no nuts, meaning it was just kind of hanging out there on the studs. Really odd. Fortunately I had an extra gasket, and I harvested the appropriate nuts from the PAIR system ports in the engine bay. I had a look at the other sensor, and I am not sure I see a gasket there either, but it is at least fastened.

-PAIR is now deleted. Not that difficult to do. I used these parts:

17376-66010 (2) GASKET AIR TUBE NO

17148-41010 (2) PLATE EXHAUST MANIF

90339-03002 (1) PLUG [for the vacuum line]

Something (TBD size of boat drain plug probably) to plug the air box.

Two of the extant nuts I reused, and two of them that had held the stainless tubing onto the valve assembly were brought down to the other blocking plate studs to replace those I moved to the O2 sensor. As they are a different type I will keep an eye on them to ensure they don't come loose.

I debated between the air tube gasket type (which was what was there for PAIR) and the oxygen sensor gasket type, but ultimately decided in favor of the air tube gasket. Let's see how they work, I can always change them later.

After that was finished, the throttle body came off, then the valve cover. (I elected not to remove the heating valve and associated hoses this time, but rather shove it out of the way. Probably will need some attention before too long.) The VC gasket was still in good shape from its installation a couple years back, though the dealer that did the work did zero in the way of surrounding oil leak cleanup.

The plug seals were a different story than the gasket! Brittle to the point of disintegration - one of them even dropped a piece into the engine, which I was lucky enough to fish out with some hemostat clamps. Glad I ordered new ones - they went in, as well as a new PCV valve and grommet. I got the old grommet and PCV out easier this time than with Mario, but clearly the last person who did this didn't have as much luck, as the bottom half of yet another grommet fell out of the valve cover when I turned it over and shook.

The valves are much cleaner in this engine than in Mario's. Not nearly as much burnt oil. What is there and burnt is in front near the leaky distributor, which makes sense I guess. A contrast to the outside of the engine which was MUCH dirtier than when I got Mario. Probably it will always look worse, but I did my best to clean the valve cover up a bit before reinstalling.

Btw, you can add another thing to the list of possible EGR melt casualties. Luigi is a federal '93, which means no EGR temp sensor, but instead the harness has a loopback plug. This loopback plug/harness plug combination was wedged next to the EGR pipe, probably for 23 years, and melted - see last 3 photos. I gather it's still working electrically so I won't mess with it, but yikes. Needless to say my EGR will be bypassed when I put everything back together.

VC is back on now. Tomorrow is plugs, putting the TB back, possibly reassembling the air intake, and possibly also doing belts.
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Just get a air box cover for a 92. You'll need to do this if you do a second battery anyway. Can probably pick one up for a reasonable price from @arcteryx. Then you won't have to cut off the bracket that holds the PAIR system. There will be a tube to plug on the 3FE cover that goes to the EGR. But you can use a rubber cap from AutoZone for it. It isn't hot or under pressure.
 
Good thought! Here's what I did instead with Mario, pre-expedition in January, with the second battery. You can't see it, but I actually just bent up one half of the bracket to accommodate the second battery tray. You can also see the NAPA 8955 in use as a bypass for the resonator. If I was starting from the same knowledge base I have today, I would have just deleted PAIR before we left, but that kind of intervention was not something I would have been confident about in January.

Luigi is probably not going to get a 2nd battery as I don't think my mom will be using it for expedition stuff, but let's see what she says next summer...

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Got the PS windows glued to the regulators at Safelite today, as well as the run channels greased. Hope that is the end of that problem, we'll see tomorrow when I am finally allowed to test (glue dry). If it works I will be buttoning up the doors finally, including the new PS speaker.

Also did a few more odds and ends like cleaning some pine needles out of the blower motor squirrel cage. They were causing some noises - all quiet now! Changed the fusible link, although the old one looks okay and went into the spares box. Screwed down the battery box and battery as I hadn't done that in a permanent way since getting done with the belts and distributor.

Anyone know where a plug 90950-01022 could be from? I found it in the glove box when I bought the car, but I have no idea where it should go. Toyota parts site that I use doesn't give an LC application for it. Firewall maybe?

Since I'm running out of time before I leave for the season, here's what I am not going to do on Luigi until next summer: PHH/coolant hoses, thermostat/gasket, front and rear axle/knuckle service, shocks and maybe springs. I also believe that the sunroof drains need cleaning.

Total spent post-purchase is ~$1300. Not including labor :)

One of the LCs goes in the garage for the winter, and one of them (yikes) gets left outside with a cover on and lots of dryer sheets in. Original plan was to put Mario in due to its cleaner interior and pristine frame, but I'm questioning that given that Luigi is less watertight (sunroof not siliconed) and has had water issues before, although the cover should help. Also Luigi's body is in better shape.
 
The windows are working decently well now, although the rubber on the run channels on that side grips the windows such that some shudder is occurring. I am not worried since the windows are now glued into the regulators, but I may yet replace the run channels next summer (they're already on order anyhow).

Considering moving the coolant flush and thermostat change (with possible PHH if I'm brave) up to tomorrow. (I just had Mario's done when I got an ATF and oil change, and what's in the radiator after 20 miles of driving is pretty brown, so I may do that one again -myself, this time- too.) Now have eight gallons of various coolant and four gallons of distilled on hand...

Regardless, Mario gets buttoned up and put away tomorrow or Saturday, and Luigi gets put away Sunday, so not much time left!
 
Kernal said:
Consider an improperly installed windshield as the source of the wet carpets. Test with a garden hose pouring water over sections of the windshield (lower L, R, Center, upper, L, R, Center) at a time while someone else watches with a bright flashlight for the drips to appear under the dash or behind the kickpanels.
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Hey @Kernal I owe you a nickel, the windshield does leak. Argh.
 
Could you shoot a picture of what brand the hose that comes from the air cleaner to the motor and what the part number is please???
 
You mean the NAPA 8955? That goes from the air box to the PAIR valve, to delete the PAIR resonator? Only applicable for 93-94, and you need to trim off a bit from the longer straighter end.
 
I'll take the alarm w remote start if you want to part with it.
 
suadero said:
You mean the NAPA 8955? That goes from the air box to the PAIR valve, to delete the PAIR resonator? Only applicable for 93-94, and you need to trim off a bit from the longer straighter end.
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Yes...thank you!!!
 
Today I was mostly working on Mario - tracking down why the heater valve wasn't being adjusted and why the heat was only blowing hot sometimes, and why I could hear the blend door opening and shutting repeatedly.

Long story short, I think the reason was that the blue plug on the back of the HVAC controls wasn't plugged in all the way after I did my head unit in January. Either that or the coolant flush I also did today (partially to rule out air bubbles) was REAL magical. :)

But this is Luigi's thread. And Luigi has many more issues outstanding than Mario. Most of which have to wait until next summer! But a few more things for now...

I fixed one of the third row seats where the crossbar under the seat had come off of its mooring. But before mounting up the PS 3rd row, I decided finally to check into why the carpet around the area of the seat belt anchor had rotted, and why the anchor bolt was so rusty.

Well, long story short, there is a decent size area of rust in the floor pan back there. Origin unknown as yet. Will get a picture tomorrow to share. But I will have to get someone to cut it out and weld in some new steel, the metal is about half gone (no holes, just layers that flaked off) in that area.

Will be trying to get that seat belt bolt off tomorrow. I broke a 1/4" to 3/8" drive adapter today while using a breaker bar trying to get it out. Doused it in PB like four times.
 
Dang, you get a lot done in a hurry! Those plugs are about as worn as can be possible in an engine and still function. They look good color wise though.
 
I have had a lot of time on my hands to move quickly - and good thing I did too, even an 80 in relatively good condition engine and body wise can take a lot of work...
 
Like the terminal covers you have on that RHS battery - mind dropping name of the source?
 
Anyone have any thoughts on what could do this to my poor floor? Many flaky layers removed - I would say the steel is at least 25% gone. Is it possible that standing water for long enough could do it? There isn't any rust inside the body panels and I am not even sure there is any underneath in the same spot, so my theory so far is that one or more windows leaked and this is where it pooled.

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It looks like we're looking down on the RHS rear 1/4 - cargo area, right?

If so, look also real deep in that sheetmetal that dips down like how the jack stores on the LHS.

My best result is to set a space heater in a vehicle with window cracked / sunroof tilted (lets out humidity) and get it bone dry before wire brushing & loosely hitting with a scraper, then some POR - 15.

I've noticed I get a condensation buildup in the same general area if during winter I leave the OEM cargo mud-mat in back for extended periods & park outside - that mat is rubber on back so it never breathes.

Just make sure to set any space heater on a small piece of plywood or tin.

If you can take your cargo carpet in a garage & space heater it too, then that'll go a long way too - it's the cold outside & a warm cabin that causes mine, so expecting why you get same. A garage to park in really helps.
 
Good call on the mud mat - that definitely could have played a part. No rust on the underside in that location or inside the body panel. The whole truck had damp floors when I got it, a lot dryer now but it will be in a garage during the winter. (Mario, sadly, will not.)
 
8 years later...

Doing a little history research on the 1993 80 I bought from my friend late last year. All he wanted was the cloth interior. All I wanted was a more daily drivable 80.

Your Luigi has been renamed Hopper and resides in SoCal. The knock sensor light has been fixed (bad splice job). O2 sensors replaced with probably the last 2 new OEM sensors on the planet. Replaced the rusted hatch. I had to reinstall the PAIRS equipment to pass smog. Installed a seat wiring harness from a 94 so I could use my electric seats with OEM heat switches. Replaced the motor for the door lock actuator since those are NLA.

I'm now in the process fixing the AC - which would hold refrigerant for a few weeks.
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