One Piece at a Time...
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BeerM3
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- Thread starter
- #22
Welp. Brakes: 1, BeerM3 0.
While they started off nice and firm a couple months ago we noticed them getting mushy, to the point of double or triple pumping them. Fortunately with the plethora of information on MUD it was easy to avoid a lot of the rookie mistakes, and yet I still think I managed to bleed one too many times on the front and dropped the fluid level below the front reservoir. $%*&! So now I get to bench bleed and start all over.
I managed to get the drums adjusted with the old bent screwdriver, but I'll be happy when the actual service tool gets here from City Racer.
Actually, given the old master is so cloudy you can't see the level, and the brake booster is a Bendix Master Vac with a decent amount of rust, I'm thinking I'll just replace it all while I'm at it. I haven't pulled it from the booster to see if it's leaking, but I haven't really had to top off fluid at any point. There's a lot of places that say after 9/75 they went to disc on the front, but mine is 1/76 and all drums, and I'd really like to be able to lock em up if necessary. Actually, I'll convert to disc in a few years once other issues are fixed.
For those reading that didn't know, in addition to the endless brake tutorials here in the forums, I found this one by Coolerman which was really helpful.
While they started off nice and firm a couple months ago we noticed them getting mushy, to the point of double or triple pumping them. Fortunately with the plethora of information on MUD it was easy to avoid a lot of the rookie mistakes, and yet I still think I managed to bleed one too many times on the front and dropped the fluid level below the front reservoir. $%*&! So now I get to bench bleed and start all over.
I managed to get the drums adjusted with the old bent screwdriver, but I'll be happy when the actual service tool gets here from City Racer.
Actually, given the old master is so cloudy you can't see the level, and the brake booster is a Bendix Master Vac with a decent amount of rust, I'm thinking I'll just replace it all while I'm at it. I haven't pulled it from the booster to see if it's leaking, but I haven't really had to top off fluid at any point. There's a lot of places that say after 9/75 they went to disc on the front, but mine is 1/76 and all drums, and I'd really like to be able to lock em up if necessary. Actually, I'll convert to disc in a few years once other issues are fixed.
For those reading that didn't know, in addition to the endless brake tutorials here in the forums, I found this one by Coolerman which was really helpful.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Great story. Love the vintage pictures. Cruiseroutfitters has a rebuild kit for your brake master. I rebuilt my 76 master, If I recall correctly it takes a 7/8” hone. Cruiser Outfitters
BeerM3
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- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks for the heads up on that! I’ll check it out.Great story. Love the vintage pictures. Cruiseroutfitters has a rebuild kit for your brake master. I rebuilt my 76 master, If I recall correctly it takes a 7/8” hone. Cruiser Outfitters
BeerM3
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- Thread starter
- #25
Even though I have tore into just about everything old car related at one point or another, and rebuilt an engine years ago, somehow I've managed to never mess with brakes. I did a good amount of research prior to starting, but still...
Brake system lessons learned the hard way:
Brake system lessons learned the hard way:
- Don't let your helper let up on the brake pedal before closing the bleeder valve
- There's a 50/50 chance one of the two old rubber plug covers in the brake adjustment slot will break off, necessitating taking off the entire drum and fishing it out. Grrrr.
- A bent screwdriver works, but I'm eager to try adjusting them with the actual service tool.
- The front reservoir holds less fluid than you'd think. And it pumps down to empty faster than I thought. Grrrr part 2.
- The "click" on the drum cylinder doesn't actually make an audible click, at least not on mine.
- A BFH makes loosening that drum much easier, even after backing off the shoes.
- Oh, and unhook the battery so you don't fry a tail light bulb by repeatedly sending a signal to it as your helper is pumping the brakes.
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BeerM3
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- Thread starter
- #26
I received some new goodies from City Racer today! And after weighing the pros and cons of rebuilding my non-original master, I opted to buy a new one from Napa for $30 more. I was a little bummed when it arrived without new sensors like it shows in the photo, but after seeing they sell those for $35 ea. I understand why they're not "thrown in". My old ones appear to be functioning anyway.
I'll also finally have mirrors on both sides! The aftermarket I have on the driver's side refuses to stay put. I followed GA Architects lead and went with the convex instead of flat.
I'll also finally have mirrors on both sides! The aftermarket I have on the driver's side refuses to stay put. I followed GA Architects lead and went with the convex instead of flat.
BeerM3
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- Thread starter
- #27
City Racer has a nice install guide on his website. This evening I got out the digital calipers and checked the spacing on the Napa NMC M2284. It's 8mm from the flange surface to the bottom of the piston. Toyota spec is .1 to .5 mm clearance from the end of the booster rod to the bottom of the piston. After multiple measurements just to be safe it looks like the booster is sticking out 8mm, and the piston is 8.3-8.4 deep. I love it when the hard work is done.
One thing I noticed and double checked is that there's a tiny lip, right at 0.9-1.0mm tall at the base of the booster studs, so I put the MC on the booster and pressed them together hard and it looks like that gap will remain, so I accounted for it in the clearance measurements.
One thing I noticed and double checked is that there's a tiny lip, right at 0.9-1.0mm tall at the base of the booster studs, so I put the MC on the booster and pressed them together hard and it looks like that gap will remain, so I accounted for it in the clearance measurements.
BeerM3
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- Thread starter
- #28
So I discovered today what a flare nut wrench is. I don't have one, and I'm not sure it would've mattered, but it sure wouldn't have hurt. I will be purchasing a set.
The front flare nut on the MC came loose with a tug. The rear....not so lucky. It was rusted, and appears "on closer inspection" (probably a continuing theme with this truck) that it's been slightly rounded before. No amount of tapping, pulling, etc. would loosen it. If i'd been thinking I would've sprayed all these a week ago. I was using just a standard box wrench of course. I finally resorted to vice grips and that went nowhere. So I cut the line with the hope that the shorter City Racer booster will give me enough wiggle room to re-flare and re-use the existing line. Otherwise, it's gonna be another week of sitting in the driveway. We'll find out tomorrow.
The front flare nut on the MC came loose with a tug. The rear....not so lucky. It was rusted, and appears "on closer inspection" (probably a continuing theme with this truck) that it's been slightly rounded before. No amount of tapping, pulling, etc. would loosen it. If i'd been thinking I would've sprayed all these a week ago. I was using just a standard box wrench of course. I finally resorted to vice grips and that went nowhere. So I cut the line with the hope that the shorter City Racer booster will give me enough wiggle room to re-flare and re-use the existing line. Otherwise, it's gonna be another week of sitting in the driveway. We'll find out tomorrow.
BeerM3
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #29
On a positive note, and my suspicion confirmed I found THE (or at least one of THE) problem with my brake pressure.
Dear Previous Owner,
It's been a discouraging afternoon. But I thank you for the cathartic laugh I had when I realized I also get to scrape silicone off the firewall after finally wrestling the booster free.
Thank you,
BeerM3
Dear Previous Owner,
It's been a discouraging afternoon. But I thank you for the cathartic laugh I had when I realized I also get to scrape silicone off the firewall after finally wrestling the booster free.
Thank you,
BeerM3
greenbeasty
SILVER Star
As you smile every time you drive it, all that will fade away!
BeerM3
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- Thread starter
- #32
After some contortionist moves and convincing myself I could get to the nuts on the top of the old booster under the dash without a wobble socket, I did. And then i went and bought a wobble socket. But I got the old one out. The replacement went in without a hitch.
I ran into a hiccup when trying to bench bleed the master which was apparently caused by somebody asleep on the job in a Chinese assembly line (side screw was tightened before the pistons were fully pushed in). I wish I would've sprung for the Aisin, but I now realize I have a 7/8" bore master (should be 1") paired with a drum booster for my unorthodox 76 with all drums. Previously it was an aftermarket 7/8" bore MC with a dual diaphragm that doesn't look to be original. Regardless, bigredrocker helped me stumble through why the front piston wouldn't pump, and it's all back together.
I got the new fittings and managed to get the old lines flared while in place. That went better than I'd anticipated. However my first time around bleeding didn't get the job done. There's a lot of horror stories on MUD about bleeding these damn things, especially with the aftermarket cylinders which of course I also have. I read a couple tricks I haven't tried yet though, so maybe next weekend...
I ran into a hiccup when trying to bench bleed the master which was apparently caused by somebody asleep on the job in a Chinese assembly line (side screw was tightened before the pistons were fully pushed in). I wish I would've sprung for the Aisin, but I now realize I have a 7/8" bore master (should be 1") paired with a drum booster for my unorthodox 76 with all drums. Previously it was an aftermarket 7/8" bore MC with a dual diaphragm that doesn't look to be original. Regardless, bigredrocker helped me stumble through why the front piston wouldn't pump, and it's all back together.
I got the new fittings and managed to get the old lines flared while in place. That went better than I'd anticipated. However my first time around bleeding didn't get the job done. There's a lot of horror stories on MUD about bleeding these damn things, especially with the aftermarket cylinders which of course I also have. I read a couple tricks I haven't tried yet though, so maybe next weekend...
BeerM3
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #33
Brakes 2; BeerM3 0
After attempted tries with a vacuum bleeder, manual bleeding, and then $120 wasted at the local auto shop (3 blocks away FWIW) for them trying to pressure, gravity, and pump/bleed the lines we're still back where we started. The good news is I now know my MC isn't leaking. I'm fairly confident the booster rod adjustment is within the Toyota tolerances. I think a lot of it has to do with the craptastic aftermarket cylinders the PO installed front and back. I've read too many horror stories on here about air getting trapped in those due to the weird vertical orientation Toyota designed.
Here's the irony
; after paying for 1.5 hours of an auto mechanic's time (honestly they probably messed with it for a solid 8 hours so that's not a dig) I backed out onto Main Street only to find I had no clutch. I was stuck in gear, with VERY mushy brakes rolling backwards towards the line of cars behind me. Fortunately I managed to wrestle it into neutral and a couple good Samaritans helped me push it back to a parking spot. The clutch slave just happened to decide to start spewing fluid with every push of the pedal. So now I have an Aisin clutch slave & new hose on the way...
So I broke down and ordered Japanese aftermarket cylinders from Cruiser Outfitters for the rears. I plan to restore the missing disc brakes in the front at some point if I stumble across the right axle. At first I though I could get all 4 rear cylinders via Toyota, only to get a reply that the 2 rear fronts are discontinued. I bought a $*&@load of other missing/shot parts from Toyo while I was at it, including the missing parking brake guts and new OEM hoses to replace the dry rot ones I currently have.
I found some more manual bleeding tips on this site. We'll see where that takes me...
After attempted tries with a vacuum bleeder, manual bleeding, and then $120 wasted at the local auto shop (3 blocks away FWIW) for them trying to pressure, gravity, and pump/bleed the lines we're still back where we started. The good news is I now know my MC isn't leaking. I'm fairly confident the booster rod adjustment is within the Toyota tolerances. I think a lot of it has to do with the craptastic aftermarket cylinders the PO installed front and back. I've read too many horror stories on here about air getting trapped in those due to the weird vertical orientation Toyota designed.
Here's the irony
; after paying for 1.5 hours of an auto mechanic's time (honestly they probably messed with it for a solid 8 hours so that's not a dig) I backed out onto Main Street only to find I had no clutch. I was stuck in gear, with VERY mushy brakes rolling backwards towards the line of cars behind me. Fortunately I managed to wrestle it into neutral and a couple good Samaritans helped me push it back to a parking spot. The clutch slave just happened to decide to start spewing fluid with every push of the pedal. So now I have an Aisin clutch slave & new hose on the way... So I broke down and ordered Japanese aftermarket cylinders from Cruiser Outfitters for the rears. I plan to restore the missing disc brakes in the front at some point if I stumble across the right axle. At first I though I could get all 4 rear cylinders via Toyota, only to get a reply that the 2 rear fronts are discontinued. I bought a $*&@load of other missing/shot parts from Toyo while I was at it, including the missing parking brake guts and new OEM hoses to replace the dry rot ones I currently have.
I found some more manual bleeding tips on this site. We'll see where that takes me...
if you ever feel like selling your soft top, let me know, please 
BeerM3
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #36
Will do. I hope to replace it someday with factory style soft top, but man are those expensive. I'm not sure you'd want it if you saw it up close. It's an older Bestop Tigertop style with snaps instead of the newer rail style. The windows are pretty scratched and hard to see out of too. But you'll have first dibs!if you ever feel like selling your soft top, let me know, please
BeerM3
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- Thread starter
- #38
For those searching, as of 3/18 there are still two of the four rear wheel cylinders available from Toyota. I thought I'd found gold (or maybe they're just priced that way) when all four showed up as available on Toyotapartsdeal.com, but it just wasn't updated in their system apparently. Cup kits are still available but cost more than the new cylinders . So save yourself some cash and just seek out good quality aftermarket cylinders. I've read good things about the Japanese line Napa carries, but decided to throw my money at Cruiser Outfitters instead.
47550-69045 replaced by 47550-69075 Right front or upper - Available
47560-69035 replaced by 47560-69055 Right rear or lower - DISCONTINUED
47570-69035 replaced by 47570-69065 Left front or upper - Available
47580-69035 replaced by 47580-69055 Left rear or lower - DISCONTINUED
And FWIW, all 4 are still available for the FJ55's
. So save yourself some cash and just seek out good quality aftermarket cylinders. I've read good things about the Japanese line Napa carries, but decided to throw my money at Cruiser Outfitters instead.47550-69045 replaced by 47550-69075 Right front or upper - Available
47560-69035 replaced by 47560-69055 Right rear or lower - DISCONTINUED
47570-69035 replaced by 47570-69065 Left front or upper - Available
47580-69035 replaced by 47580-69055 Left rear or lower - DISCONTINUED
And FWIW, all 4 are still available for the FJ55's
BeerM3
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- Thread starter
- #39
Had a couple days to get back into it and get the rear wheel cylinders replaced with Cruiser Outfitters Japanese brand. That was a fairly painless process. The parking brake will probably be a much bigger headache.
I've given up trying to understand why the PO did certain things, and muttering "dangit PO" under the truck doesn't have a good ring to it. I'm just going to call him Larry from now on. As in:
Dangit Larry! We don't wrap the emergency brake cable in front of the accelerator linkage.
Dangit Larry!!
What did the parking drum's stake nut do to piss you off Larry?
I've given up trying to understand why the PO did certain things, and muttering "dangit PO" under the truck doesn't have a good ring to it. I'm just going to call him Larry from now on. As in:
Dangit Larry! We don't wrap the emergency brake cable in front of the accelerator linkage.
Dangit Larry!!
What did the parking drum's stake nut do to piss you off Larry?
BeerM3
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #40
The parking brake started making a nasty binding noise a while ago so we opened it up to find an oily mess and broken parts. It looks like the notorious leaking rear output seal. I ordered a new one from Cruiser Outfitters and found it was a little cheaper (not easier) to order the e-brake guts through toyotapartsdeal vs a kit. I don't have the parts yet but it was too nice not to go ahead and get it torn apart and ready to repair.
That C clip holding the cable inside the housing wasn't a lot of fun to get out working underneath. And then I remembered I'm replacing the whole cable anyway due to all the cracks in the sheathing. So once it was out from under the truck, I was able to get it opened up with a small screwdriver.
I went ahead and pulled the speedometer housing because I figure while I'm in here I might as well attempt to replace the speedo o rings, even though mine don't look to be leaking right now. The housing gasket is broken at the top but didn't appear to be causing any leaks. I'm debating on whether to replace it if anyone wants to weigh in on that. I could't find any wiggle in the output shaft, so that was encouraging.
There's the groove I was expecting to find. I'm going to attempt a speedi-sleeve fix.
I don't think my hecho en mexico seal was doing me any favors. Hopefully the new one will fare better.
That C clip holding the cable inside the housing wasn't a lot of fun to get out working underneath. And then I remembered I'm replacing the whole cable anyway due to all the cracks in the sheathing. So once it was out from under the truck, I was able to get it opened up with a small screwdriver.
I went ahead and pulled the speedometer housing because I figure while I'm in here I might as well attempt to replace the speedo o rings, even though mine don't look to be leaking right now. The housing gasket is broken at the top but didn't appear to be causing any leaks. I'm debating on whether to replace it if anyone wants to weigh in on that. I could't find any wiggle in the output shaft, so that was encouraging.
There's the groove I was expecting to find. I'm going to attempt a speedi-sleeve fix.
I don't think my hecho en mexico seal was doing me any favors. Hopefully the new one will fare better.
