Old Faithful - LX450 2UZ Swap

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DirtSniffer

Professional dirt sniffer, rock licker
SILVER Star
Joined
Mar 4, 2020
Threads
19
Messages
390
Location
Rockford, MN
With the unplanned engine swap I figured it's time to start a build thread on this thing. I have recently dubbed her “Old Faithful”. Not because she is reliable (she has been anything but, but can't blame ‘ol girl too much), but because she has decided she likes spewing out hot coolant like a geyser.

I picked up this 80 in December 2022 with the intention of turning it into somewhat of a budget wheeler/overland rig and so I could have a cruiser I could actually drive while working on my 40 build (and big surprise, it has been a huge distraction from that build). A week of setting up and tearing down a ground tent in Utah that summer led me to want to switch to car camping, and my FJ cruiser is just too small for that. Plus, I've always wanted an excuse to own an 80. I seriously considered parting with my FJC for a nice 80, but when a cheap enough half-decent looking one popped up such that I could have both, I couldn't help myself. She's a bit rusty and rough around the edges, but not nice enough I wont feel too bad beating on it.

She spent most of summer 2023 under the knife doing maintenance, waiting weeks and weeks for parts from Witts End, and building the front bumper and sliders. Barely got things painted and back together before the snow flew and didn't get to wheel with it that year apart from laid back snow run. Before pictures are on an old phone, but this is after I finally get it driving again.

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The bottom half of the bumper is a coastal kit. Did the bull bar part myself. It's tight to the body, too close really. The driver's side bar has deflected and pushed into the corner of the hood/quarter panel a bit hitting a boulder. Scrub bars for more support may be in order, when I get the time/motivation.

I used the rusty rocker panels as an excuse to do rocker chop sliders and cut out the cancer hiding under the plastic cladding. I used 2x5 ⅛ wall, with a handful of bar plugged in a few stops for support, a sleeved hole for the sunroof drain, and 1.75 ⅛ wall for the slider bars and kick out. If I were to do this over, I would use DOM but I was being cheap. I may sleeve the existing tube with a half cut of 2” ⅛ wall some time. The kick outs are a must, have saved the rear tires and flares multiple times already. These sliders have been solid, the extra clearance on the sides is a huge deal. I would do it again even on a clean 80, with a few changes.

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Cut out a window so I could weld directly to the B pillar.

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Added a brace over that, then welded the piece I cut out back in.

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Had some extra cancer here I had to patch.

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Brace at the rear wheel well.

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View of where they tie into the body cross member in front of the rear wheels. I notched the rectangular tubing to use the factory brace as it was. Alternatively you could use 2x4 and hammer the pinch weld over.

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Cut the cats out and replaced with a relatively low profile muffler, dumps out the side behind the B pillar. Nice thing about the rocker chop sliders is there are no slider mount arms getting in the way of the exhaust. After doing this, some of the exhaust fumes started getting into the cab through the gaping rust holes on the rear quarters behind the rear wheels. Will be getting patched.

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Other than the front bumper, winch, and sliders, the only other thing I did to it was throw an Aussie locker in the rear that was originally intended for my 40. It has worked great, I get looks when making turns and it makes the ratcheting sound but oh well. Still left wanting for a front locker, though. One day.
 
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Back in May I tagged along with a local MN group heading out for a weekend of wheeling in the black hills. This was the first real test of the rig, but the adventure started a few weeks before leaving.

First, I decided I really should do something about the sticky front caliper. After tearing into it, I could not get one of the pistons free. Really didn't want to do a full brake job, which would probably cascade into wheel bearings, etc this close to leaving. But I was peer pressured into just slapping a reman caliper on about 2 weeks out.

Then, 1 week out, I got my wheel spacers in so I could run the 33” muddies on FJ steelies I already had. And found the wheel bearing opposite side of the sticky caliper had some play. Awesome. It was Friday evening, so Napa was really my only hope. Ordered bearings and hub seal, which were delayed because someone missed a bearing. After pestering them they finally got it in the next Wednesday afternoon, had it slapped together that night and was able to load up Thursday to leave Friday. You'd think my breakage karma was up, right? Wrong.

All was going well first few hours driving out west. Then, somewhere west of Watertown SD, the alternator crapped out. Threw my jumper pack on to buy myself time, but she died on me a short while later. Threw a small deep cycle battery I had with me for work (made a half play, half work trip out of it, basically a free wheeling trip!) and that got me to Pierre where I met up with the rest of the convoy to come up with a game plan.

AD_4nXdAMKRD5SvKAjHYI_qAoi9TxZWvA3TD9ATuc1VZ4hYa8h29VVWY_pvuTR3UWzOQaOyuN9ZnOMrAZEuupAOGgslkmet-zCsRyU2gXppl7QXXUFl7vDQj8MMswDhKu4zq4gOQ5C8OpGzIqW4s3rExrzo6pdxy


Must have tried 20 parts stores/dealers, no one had an alternator in stock for the very common 80. Of course, it was Friday again and overnighting one wouldn't get it till Monday or Tuesday. Luckily, @Miller605 came to the rescue and gave me a used one to keep me going. After throwing another spare deep cycle in, we split up with @fjdiesel and I heading to camp south of deadwood and @sogncab and Chris meeting Lane in Rapid to get the alternator. I wish I was making this up, but as soon as I put the rig in park and was turning the key off at camp, the voltage light came on and needle started dropping. Can't make this stuff up. Got the dead alt torn out before dark, Karl and Chris got there with my “new” alt shortly after, and had it jammed in before bed so I could actually sleep that night. Trip saved. Thanks again Lane! - I'll probably have to return that alt next time I'm out there now that I'm swapping won't I lol.

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Had a great but somewhat stressful weekend of wheeling. Ended up going down some trails we didn't have much business being on (fruity pebbles being the worst) and ended up coming down off a rock and putting the sidewall into another boulder's sharp edge and ripped a tire as well as the flare off. Other carnage included 2 valve stems (I now know the steelies suck, no protection for the stems), bashed gas tank, bent rear lower control arms, rear bumper destroyed (it was already hanging on by a rusty thread where they bolt to wheel wells). Seriously impressed how well this thing did with no lift, 33s, and not a single aftermarket skid plate. Everything is tucked up nicely compared to FJs and 4runners I am used to, trans cross member took the beating for the transfer case. Stock vs stock, I have way more confidence in this thing vs my FJ or old 4Runner.

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I also started leaking out coolant from the overflow on one trail. The engine wasn't all that hot, about 220 tops, but seemed to be boiling and bubbling in the overflow tank. A warning of things to come, but we suspected likely just a leaky rad cap at the time. It leaked maybe half a gallon and seemed fine after that, I watched temps closely. I picked up a new cap on Monday after splitting up from the group and topped off, she seemed happy and ran 195 even going up hills after that. Made my run to job site in Wyoming and all the way home without issue. Detoured through the Badlands Loop.

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With the unplanned engine swap I figured it's time to start a build thread on this thing. I have recently dubbed her “Old Faithful”. Not because she is reliable (she has been anything but, but can't blame ‘ol girl too much), but because she has decided she likes spewing out hot coolant like a geyser.

I picked up this 80 in December 2022 with the intention of turning it into somewhat of a budget wheeler/overland rig and so I could have a cruiser I could actually drive while working on my 40 build (and big surprise, it has been a huge distraction from that build). A week of setting up and tearing down a ground tent in Utah that summer led me to want to switch to car camping, and my FJ cruiser is just too small for that. Plus, I've always wanted an excuse to own an 80. I seriously considered parting with my FJC for a nice 80, but when a cheap enough half-decent looking one popped up such that I could have both, I couldn't help myself. She's a bit rusty and rough around the edges, but not nice enough I wont feel too bad beating on it.

She spent most of summer 2023 under the knife doing maintenance, waiting weeks and weeks for parts from Witts End, and building the front bumper and sliders. Barely got things painted and back together before the snow flew and didn't get to wheel with it that year apart from laid back snow run. Before pictures are on an old phone, but this is after I finally get it driving again.

View attachment 3714731
View attachment 3714740
The bottom half of the bumper is a coastal kit. Did the bull bar part myself. It's tight to the body, too close really. The driver's side bar has deflected and pushed into the corner of the hood/quarter panel a bit hitting a boulder. Scrub bars for more support may be in order, when I get the time/motivation.

I used the rusty rocker panels as an excuse to do rocker chop sliders and cut out the cancer hiding under the plastic cladding. I used 2x5 ⅛ wall, with a handful of bar plugged in a few stops for support, a sleeved hole for the sunroof drain, and 1.75 ⅛ wall for the slider bars and kick out. If I were to do this over, I would use DOM but I was being cheap. I may sleeve the existing tube with a half cut of 2” ⅛ wall some time. The kick outs are a must, have saved the rear tires and flares multiple times already. These sliders have been solid, the extra clearance on the sides is a huge deal. I would do it again even on a clean 80, with a few changes.

View attachment 3714744

Cut out a window so I could weld directly to the B pillar.

View attachment 3714746

Added a brace over that, then welded the piece I cut out back in.

View attachment 3714747

Had some extra cancer here I had to patch.

View attachment 3714748

Brace at the rear wheel well.

View attachment 3714767

View of where they tie into the body cross member in front of the rear wheels. I notched the rectangular tubing to use the factory brace as it was. Alternatively you could use 2x4 and hammer the pinch weld over.

View attachment 3714768

Cut the cats out and replaced with a relatively low profile muffler, dumps out the side behind the B pillar. Nice thing about the rocker hop sliders is there are no slider mount arms getting in the way of the exhaust. After doing this, some of the exhaust fumes started getting into the cab through the gaping rust holes on the rear quarters behind the rear wheels. Will be getting patched.

View attachment 3714762

Other than the front bumper, winch, and sliders, the only other thing I did to it was throw an Aussie locker in the rear that was originally intended for my 40. It has worked great, I get looks when making turns and it makes the ratcheting sound but oh well. Still left wanting for a front locker, though. One day.
Nice job on the slider’s
Rocker chop sliders on a 80 are game changers.
Looks like you did your homework
I will be following a long.
 
After getting back I threw on metal tech rear lower links and ripped off the rear bumper and started making plans for building a rear tubular bumper, more to come eventually. That's on the back burner now.

Then a few weeks ago we made a run up North to my favorite MN trail that I hadn't been to in 2 years, Mesabi mountain. Not 10 minutes into the trail, I blew out the bottom seam of the radiator and lost just about all of the coolant. We left the 80 on the side of the trail and I hitched a ride for the rest, hopped back in on the way back out and drove straight back out. Got hotter than I wanted right at the end but had to get it off the trail. Temp gauge never moved, useless.

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2 trailers and a joy ride in @fjdiesel 's 40 later, got her home. Threw the old rad I still had in the scrap pile on and determined after some tests that it was in fact the head gasket. All seems fine until about 210*, where it quickly built up pressure and shot out the top of the rad. So, under normal driving the leak wasn't noticeable. But after getting a bit hot on the trail, it leaks.

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After tearing the engine out and pulling the head, I found some light scoring on the cylinder walls. Nothing my nail catches, but I wasn't comfortable just slapping a head gasket on just to potentially start burning oil or other issues making it all for nothing. I also know the 1FZ is a great engine and all, but I also didn't feel like dumping more money and time into doing a full rebuild just to have… a stock 1FZ. Which is where the 2UZ swap comes in.

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After much research and self reflection on my life choices, I decided on a 2UZ swap. Reason being, it seems the cheapest route to a decent power boost and keeps it all Toyota. Yeah yeah, I know you can turbo a 1FZ and make 1000+ HP, but I'm not interested in doing a full rebuild, standalone controllers, turbo manifold, turbo, injectors, yada yada. Also, LS swap is a no for me, personally, with the adapter costs. And not Toyota. On paper the 2UZ doesn't look like a big gain, but everyone complains how the 80s are slow pigs unlike the 100s and tundras. I am not interested in a high HP, front 8” diff and birf busting monster, just want to make the thing more drivable on modern roads. And still run 87 octane.

Made a run to eastern Wisconsin last weekend to pick this up, 2UZ and a343f out of a 2002 100 series that rolled on its side. Not positive on mileage, told for sure under 150k, possibly in the 120s or 130s. Relatively recent timing belt service among other things. It was one of his clients' vehicles he used to work on. I wanted this setup because my transfer case will bolt up, no need to mess with valve body or tv cable delete/etc, and the 100s had a rear sump pan. Among other things like the oil filter. Plan is to run an early tundra ECU which has no immobilizer to make things easier. A later VVTI engine and a750f would be nice, but this setup with the throttle cable instead of drive by wire and more ECU issues to fight will be simpler.

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I am still doing research on the swap but I will do my best to document as much as I can. I have yet to find a thorough documentation on the whole swap. To make things a bit easier for me, I asked Slee nicely and they are shipping out one of their cross member belly pans that they use in their 2UZ swaps. I'll just need to fab up motor mounts and then the real fun begins. Hoping to have the engine in for good so I can cram this thing into my small garage to tinker on into fall/winter before it gets too cold. Will be pulling the trans this weekend.
 
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Subscribed. Those sliders are brilliant. Can't wait to see how this swap goes. A friend offered me a low mileage sequoia with a rusted out frame for free, so I'm tempted to follow in your footsteps.
 
With the unplanned engine swap I figured it's time to start a build thread on this thing. I have recently dubbed her “Old Faithful”. Not because she is reliable (she has been anything but, but can't blame ‘ol girl too much), but because she has decided she likes spewing out hot coolant like a geyser.

I picked up this 80 in December 2022 with the intention of turning it into somewhat of a budget wheeler/overland rig and so I could have a cruiser I could actually drive while working on my 40 build (and big surprise, it has been a huge distraction from that build). A week of setting up and tearing down a ground tent in Utah that summer led me to want to switch to car camping, and my FJ cruiser is just too small for that. Plus, I've always wanted an excuse to own an 80. I seriously considered parting with my FJC for a nice 80, but when a cheap enough half-decent looking one popped up such that I could have both, I couldn't help myself. She's a bit rusty and rough around the edges, but not nice enough I wont feel too bad beating on it.

She spent most of summer 2023 under the knife doing maintenance, waiting weeks and weeks for parts from Witts End, and building the front bumper and sliders. Barely got things painted and back together before the snow flew and didn't get to wheel with it that year apart from laid back snow run. Before pictures are on an old phone, but this

View attachment 3714744
Again great job on the sliders, how are you mounting the bottom of the front finder ?
Heres a picture of mine. I did the squre tube kickout simalur to the one you did in the rear in the front and added a tab between the door and the brace to bolt the finder to.
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I have been beating on mine for almost 10 years and love them they have held up great.

PS I wheeled with those Knuckleheads 😆 Chris & Karl at SAS the last two years, Great Guys !
 
Thanks, you were probably my main inspiration for doing mine. I have not done anything to secure the fender there yet, it doesn't really flop around much but I will eventually be pulling them off to tub the wheel wells for bigger tires and may add a tab then. I need to trim the fender more there so I can wash that spot out better, it collects dirt.
 
With the unplanned engine swap I figured it's time to start a build thread on this thing. I have recently dubbed her “Old Faithful”. Not because she is reliable (she has been anything but, but can't blame ‘ol girl too much), but because she has decided she likes spewing out hot coolant like a geyser.

I picked up this 80 in December 2022 with the intention of turning it into somewhat of a budget wheeler/overland rig and so I could have a cruiser I could actually drive while working on my 40 build (and big surprise, it has been a huge distraction from that build). A week of setting up and tearing down a ground tent in Utah that summer led me to want to switch to car camping, and my FJ cruiser is just too small for that. Plus, I've always wanted an excuse to own an 80. I seriously considered parting with my FJC for a nice 80, but when a cheap enough half-decent looking one popped up such that I could have both, I couldn't help myself. She's a bit rusty and rough around the edges, but not nice enough I wont feel too bad beating on it.

She spent most of summer 2023 under the knife doing maintenance, waiting weeks and weeks for parts from Witts End, and building the front bumper and sliders. Barely got things painted and back together before the snow flew and didn't get to wheel with it that year apart from laid back snow run. Before pictures are on an old phone, but this is after I finally get it driving again.

View attachment 3714731
View attachment 3714740
The bottom half of the bumper is a coastal kit. Did the bull bar part myself. It's tight to the body, too close really. The driver's side bar has deflected and pushed into the corner of the hood/quarter panel a bit hitting a boulder. Scrub bars for more support may be in order, when I get the time/motivation.

I used the rusty rocker panels as an excuse to do rocker chop sliders and cut out the cancer hiding under the plastic cladding. I used 2x5 ⅛ wall, with a handful of bar plugged in a few stops for support, a sleeved hole for the sunroof drain, and 1.75 ⅛ wall for the slider bars and kick out. If I were to do this over, I would use DOM but I was being cheap. I may sleeve the existing tube with a half cut of 2” ⅛ wall some time. The kick outs are a must, have saved the rear tires and flares multiple times already. These sliders have been solid, the extra clearance on the sides is a huge deal. I would do it again even on a clean 80, with a few changes.

View attachment 3714744

Cut out a window so I could weld directly to the B pillar.

View attachment 3714746

Added a brace over that, then welded the piece I cut out back in.

View attachment 3714747

Had some extra cancer here I had to patch.

View attachment 3714748

Brace at the rear wheel well.

View attachment 3714767

View of where they tie into the body cross member in front of the rear wheels. I notched the rectangular tubing to use the factory brace as it was. Alternatively you could use 2x4 and hammer the pinch weld over.

View attachment 3714768

Cut the cats out and replaced with a relatively low profile muffler, dumps out the side behind the B pillar. Nice thing about the rocker chop sliders is there are no slider mount arms getting in the way of the exhaust. After doing this, some of the exhaust fumes started getting into the cab through the gaping rust holes on the rear quarters behind the rear wheels. Will be getting patched.

View attachment 3714762

Other than the front bumper, winch, and sliders, the only other thing I did to it was throw an Aussie locker in the rear that was originally intended for my 40. It has worked great, I get looks when making turns and it makes the ratcheting sound but oh well. Still left wanting for a front locker, though. One day.
Love the sliders. You didn’t happen to pick this one up in Maple Plain, did you?
 
I gotta figure out if I want your engine or not. I really want to build a 1FZ

I still have $40k in bills I'm betting for bodywork/paint on the 40 yet.

Then there's the complete retardation of spending $20k on an engine to go in a $5k 80 series....


Then I also wonder if one could be shoehorned into Chris's hilux.... 🤣
 
Pre-swap driveshaft measurements for my and others future reference.

Front: 31 15/16"

Rear: 38 3/16"

This is measured with tape hooked to back side of diff flange measured to the face of the tcase flange. Will compare once the V8 is in to see how much originals need to be lengthened/shortened.
 
Modifying linkages will be fairly simple. For the transfer case, a simple plate bracket to relocate the shifter tower rearward about 5.5" and shortening the rod will do the trick. For the transmission shift linkage, the rod just needs to be lengthened. The 100 series shifter rod is close, but looks to be about an inch too long.

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Got the 80 transfer case pulled off and bolted into the 100 transmission today and realized that that 100's tcase shifter setup is completely different. The holes where the 80 shifter bolts to are there, but they added a pedestal to the adapter housing for the 100. Bad news is, can't use a plate to mount the 80 shifter rearwards. Good news is, apparently the 100 shifter is in the perfect spot for an 80 swap. I didn't think of this when I picked it up, and didn't get the 100 shifter. Hoping they still have it and can ship to me otherwise I'll find another 100 shifter.

Turns out the plate idea is from people who adapted the 80 a343f vs using one from a 100.

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Got some work done on the motor mounts. After researching how other have done it, I decided to go this route:

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Which uses the original frame mount brackets and motor mounts. The mount position is further forward than the original 2UZ mounts, but fortunately there is another set of threaded holes further forward. Chased the new holes out and made up some plates for the motor and mount sides, just need to drop the engine in and cut and tack some square tube between the two. A hole will be cut on the engine side plate to access the mount nut with a socket.

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1.75" 1/8 wall should be fine, right? It's what I've got laying around. I have a stick of 2" 3/16 wall, but that's being saved for a tire swingout.
 

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