Ol' Blue, my 68' fj40 project (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2fpower
- Start date
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"I need to start thinking about where all these painted parts are going to go until installation time"
Um.. What seems to be the holdup? Frame ready? You bolt stuff back on the frame!
WOw.. I need a hankey.. That looks great.. you are wearing permagrin now!
Um.. What seems to be the holdup? Frame ready? You bolt stuff back on the frame!
WOw.. I need a hankey.. That looks great.. you are wearing permagrin now!
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #285
I have never been able to paint a bolt, then install it without chucks of paint falling off. 
Any thoughts how to do this without bad results?
Right now, I have stainless bolts purchased, but thinking of installing and seeing if I like the stainless look. If not, then painting with brush or airbrush after they are tightened and on the car.
My wife has been uber supporting this week. I have lots of hours out there this week, and not quite done yet. Kudo's to her.
Still don't think she would let me stack pieces in the house.
Any thoughts how to do this without bad results?
Right now, I have stainless bolts purchased, but thinking of installing and seeing if I like the stainless look. If not, then painting with brush or airbrush after they are tightened and on the car.
My wife has been uber supporting this week. I have lots of hours out there this week, and not quite done yet. Kudo's to her.
Still don't think she would let me stack pieces in the house.
I have never been able to paint a bolt, then install it without chucks of paint falling off.
Any thoughts how to do this without bad results?
I think the stainless would look really nice. I dealt with the bolt thing before, and it is a huge P.I.T.A! What I have done is put 2 strips of scotch clear tape over the bolt hole, just enough tape so that when you put the bolt in, there is 1/2" or more tape showing past your bolt after you tighten it down. After the bolt is in you can use regular painters tape to mask on top of the scotch tape and further out with paper. Make sure you dont have any gaps in your tape for the paint to get through. 1 light coat of epoxy, light coats of base, and 1 light coat of clear (would suggest airbrush, or mini jet). The thicker you get your paint build the more prone to chipping you will be. After it dries, you can unmask your paper & tape, but use an exacto blade around the bolt/washer with light pressure to make sure you don't cut through the paint on the body, pull the rest of scotch tape off............BAM! Perfect bolts, with way too much time invested!!!!! Have also tried to leave the bolt loose enough just to get tape under it, paint, let dry well then use an adjustable open end wrench with painters tape lining the face of the tool that contacts the bolt head & finish tightening. Have had some minor chipping issues this way before though.
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- Sep 16, 2004
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I 2nd the stainless bolts.
x3 on the stainless. Saw a mustard yellow 80s fj40 in Joplin a couple years ago. Total frame off resto with unpainted stainless hardware. Looked awesome.
btw, I know a guy with a box of 24"x24"x4" pleated high efficiency filters you can have. I ordered 2" thickness, they shipped 4", and they didn't want to pay for shipping to get the 4" back.
I've got no money in them and no use for them so let me know if you want them.
I've got no money in them and no use for them so let me know if you want them.
Stainless is what I always do. I would paint the ones on the windshield hinges if your using steel tho. You can find them in stainless if they're dished but ususally a hex head instead of phillips.
Stainless and antiseize. I buy them in bullk and have them in bins.
Stainless and antiseize. I buy them in bullk and have them in bins.
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #291
more thoughts
I forgot my second change for painting. You really need flourecent lights hung low to see how the paint is going on. I recall (NOW) the posting by Rob painting his FIAT with lights on the garage door. Wish I did that. I was crawling on the floor trying to get an angle to see.
OK, so this am, I sprayed the textured interior.
First off, last time I threw away the texture gun, (schutz) because I was out of laquer (oops) This time, I got even smarter, and it worked great.
I forgot my second change for painting. You really need flourecent lights hung low to see how the paint is going on. I recall (NOW) the posting by Rob painting his FIAT with lights on the garage door. Wish I did that. I was crawling on the floor trying to get an angle to see.
OK, so this am, I sprayed the textured interior.
First off, last time I threw away the texture gun, (schutz) because I was out of laquer (oops) This time, I got even smarter, and it worked great.
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #294
and more
finally
Oh, and advice if you do tinted liner. You barely have enough room in the raptor bottle to put the hardner agent and the color base. I estimated that it would take 2 liters to do one coat (based on other postings), so I got a gallon mixing tub from the paint shop, measured 500 ML of hardner, added 200 ml of color, and then the two bottles of raptor, 750ml each. then I mixed it all up, and put back into the raptor bottle, leaving an inch of room at the top, as there is still some raptor product in the bottle that did not come out. Shaked it again really good, and sprayed it. After one bottle goes out, did the other bottle, then went back, put the remainder from the gallon mixing container, (there was not room for it all during the first pour) and cut the top of one of the other container to get out as much as possible. At $50 a liter (with the color cost) I want to use every drip.
Anyway put all that in and sprayed.
finally
Oh, and advice if you do tinted liner. You barely have enough room in the raptor bottle to put the hardner agent and the color base. I estimated that it would take 2 liters to do one coat (based on other postings), so I got a gallon mixing tub from the paint shop, measured 500 ML of hardner, added 200 ml of color, and then the two bottles of raptor, 750ml each. then I mixed it all up, and put back into the raptor bottle, leaving an inch of room at the top, as there is still some raptor product in the bottle that did not come out. Shaked it again really good, and sprayed it. After one bottle goes out, did the other bottle, then went back, put the remainder from the gallon mixing container, (there was not room for it all during the first pour) and cut the top of one of the other container to get out as much as possible. At $50 a liter (with the color cost) I want to use every drip.
Anyway put all that in and sprayed.
slide that frame under it and go to town. Thats going to be awsome.
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #297
I think the stainless would look really nice. I dealt with the bolt thing before, and it is a huge P.I.T.A! What I have done is put 2 strips of scotch clear tape over the bolt hole, just enough tape so that when you put the bolt in, there is 1/2" or more tape showing past your bolt after you tighten it down. After the bolt is in you can use regular painters tape to mask on top of the scotch tape and further out with paper. Make sure you dont have any gaps in your tape for the paint to get through. 1 light coat of epoxy, light coats of base, and 1 light coat of clear (would suggest airbrush, or mini jet). The thicker you get your paint build the more prone to chipping you will be. After it dries, you can unmask your paper & tape, but use an exacto blade around the bolt/washer with light pressure to make sure you don't cut through the paint on the body, pull the rest of scotch tape off............BAM! Perfect bolts, with way too much time invested!!!!! Have also tried to leave the bolt loose enough just to get tape under it, paint, let dry well then use an adjustable open end wrench with painters tape lining the face of the tool that contacts the bolt head & finish tightening. Have had some minor chipping issues this way before though.
Stainless is the winner then!
Thanks for the advice. Question for you.... Do you know someone that could buff it out, if I were to cut it down?
Paint booth removal..
when I built mine and when i built Chef's.. I attached strings to the ceiling. Roll the plastic up, tie it to the ceiling.. ONly thing in my way is the intake filters.. Just food for thought. You might need it to finish the other tub?
when I built mine and when i built Chef's.. I attached strings to the ceiling. Roll the plastic up, tie it to the ceiling.. ONly thing in my way is the intake filters.. Just food for thought. You might need it to finish the other tub?
I to would go stainless. I am swaping mine over one at a time when I take something off to fix and put back.
