While you're in there do the oil pump oring/gasket, front crank seal too if it hasn't been done before. Hardest part is the crank bolt, so you're halfway there anyway.
Ok, what happened? Harmonic Balancer?
- Thread starter BTLSHP
- Start date
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CharlieS
GOLD Star
If you are capable of doing the work, the cost of a breaker bar, proper socket and torque wrench is bound to be cheaper than paying someone to do it. Then you have the tools.
When I installed the supercharger on my (former) 80, I found a 3/4" torque wrench on Craigslist. I sold it later since I didn't have much use for it. It was a wash financially.
You could also just use a big honkin' breaker bar, body weight, and do the math. That's what I did on my 200 axle nuts. Might be trickier in the area you are working...
When I installed the supercharger on my (former) 80, I found a 3/4" torque wrench on Craigslist. I sold it later since I didn't have much use for it. It was a wash financially.
You could also just use a big honkin' breaker bar, body weight, and do the math. That's what I did on my 200 axle nuts. Might be trickier in the area you are working...
Yea I’m always preaching to people the Harmonic balancer is a maintenance item, Rubber only has a 10 year lifespan (The proof is on your tires). I would replace the crank bolt also, but im weird like that
Not to start a major pissing contest…. I also second the holder tool with a built on welded breaker bar/arm, makes life way the F easier than trying to handle multiple breaker bars.
Side note: I found Toyota dealer records using my Vin, the dealer couldn’t remove the HB crank bolt. When I finally removed the HB crank bolt, took about 1000Ft Lbs of force. I had to use a torque multiplier, impact and bump start wouldn’t budge it.
- Thread starter
- #24
Ok, I am processing all this. If this were my ES 300, easy peasy and well within my reach. I should be able to work through it. I was hit by an empty school bus last week going through a tight turn. He took my lane and his and I was on a bicycle so I am still a bit stiff. Sort went into the side of him at a 30 degree angle and my left side took a beating.
The front seals were done 3 years ago, I have the records. My torque wrench tops out at 240 ft lbs, so I will have to see about Auto Zone or failing that Harbor Freight. I have 14mm deep impact socket, 30mm not a big deal. We ha planned to put a fair amount into repairs, $500 for a harmonic balancer is not going to break the bank, Just going to put off by a week or so an order for all new rubber hoses.
I really appreciate the input and support.
I found a great thread on the front oil seal, but it starts mid way through. I need pointers to something about getting the fan off ideally with zero belt tension.
The front seals were done 3 years ago, I have the records. My torque wrench tops out at 240 ft lbs, so I will have to see about Auto Zone or failing that Harbor Freight. I have 14mm deep impact socket, 30mm not a big deal. We ha planned to put a fair amount into repairs, $500 for a harmonic balancer is not going to break the bank, Just going to put off by a week or so an order for all new rubber hoses.
I really appreciate the input and support.
I found a great thread on the front oil seal, but it starts mid way through. I need pointers to something about getting the fan off ideally with zero belt tension.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Man if you got a little time order are your parts on Partsouq for 500 you could get a harmonic balancer plus all the Items listed a water pump, new belts and pulleys.
- Thread starter
- #26
Yeah, I was just in the process of reviewing an order for about $350 of various hoses, clamps and bits to rehab the cooling system and rear heater plus a few goodies....
CDL Switch arrived today so I guess I will have something to do while waiting for the balancer to get in.
Can anyone help me find a thread on removing the balancer? I assume that no matter what I am removing the fan but do I need to re-tension the alternator belts to do this or is there a clever trick?
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
Yes, you must loosen the alternator belts, as this is the part that drives them.
I use a Craftsman 12 mm ratcheting combination wrench that has a slight bend to the closed end (not flat).
You will also need a 14 mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the alternator bracket.
Don't break the nipple on your radiator!
You can also use a bunch of extensions and get the adjuster bolt from inside the RF fender well.
- Thread starter
- #29
My challenge is the alternator belts are loose. This whole fiasco began on a drive to the airport where I saw a new battery at 12.1v and only charging at 13.4v. I thought I was a freeking hero for having ordered brushes and went after them. Started it up and got some more rumble than squeak.
The OTRAMM video is terrifying me in terms of working room in a one car garage.
The question is can I get the fan assembly bolts without the tension of the alternator belts? or do I have to re-install? Not a big deal - 40 minutes and I have a couple of days
Yes, place a screwdriver across two of them for leverage.
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks, I should have been able to figure that out!
Toyota fan bolts are such a pain! Get a fan clutch holder from Napa and avoid busted knuckles and cussing.
- Thread starter
- #33
Brilliant!
Fan clutch bolts are easy. Once you get in there and see what you're working with it'll make sense. If the crank bolt has been removed before it'll be easy to remove again. Mine zipped right off with a Thor air impact. Mine was off during a head gasket job years ago so no problems like I've seen here or in videos.
If you have the space,time and a little mechanical knowledge I would never pay to have this work done. We are all driving 25-30 year old vehicles here and should have a basic understanding of how to fix them. Or have really deep pockets cause nothing on these old cruisers is cheap. You got this!
If you have the space,time and a little mechanical knowledge I would never pay to have this work done. We are all driving 25-30 year old vehicles here and should have a basic understanding of how to fix them. Or have really deep pockets cause nothing on these old cruisers is cheap. You got this!
Been discussed elsewhere but keep in mind the use of a breaker bar extension if the crank bolt won't budge using the other methods. A 2" diameter 5' length of steel pipe slid partly over a3/4" drive breaker bar can help break free a stubborn crank bolt IME.
- Thread starter
- #36
Yes, I can see everything for this thing is scaled up from my ES 330 - I hav 1/2" an 2' pipe
Harbor freight 3/4" breaker bar with a hi lift jack handle cheater ftw. The Pittsburgh 3/4" torque wrench is good to go for this job as well.
- Thread starter
- #38
I stopped by my nearby Harbor Freight after collecting the new HB. Pittsburgh is in my budget, but WOW the selection of ICON tools is stunning! I have not been there for a month and all of a sudden the place is loads with tools.
I've got the Icon ratchets and extensions. They are a lot nicer than my old Craftsman Professionals.
alia176
SILVER Star
There's a writeup on OME harmonic balancer vs another brand and they both display the same manufacturing stamping. I bought the alternate one and it was in fact identical to the OEM that I replaced.
