What to do?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Scota4570

Scota4570

Joined
Mar 6, 2019
Threads
79
Messages
317
Location
Salinas, CA
'92 LC,

My upper lift gate has a couple of rust holes under the glass retaining lift gate seal rubber above the key slot. The lift gate has a minor dent on the top driver's side edge and a little bo-bo above the water sprayer . I am capable of repairing all of it. That takes a lot of time and work. The truck lives outside. It would have a tarp over it for a while. A new lift gate seal is $261, paint $150, time??

Or, could buy a paint matching drop in salvage unit for $750 plus shipping.

What would you do?

Thanks,
Scot
 
I'd probably ignore it and cuss about it for a few years, telling myself I was going to repair it myself. Then I'd finally bite the bullet and go buy the salvaged gate that would be a few years older and cost $1000 by the time I get around to it.

I'm trying to learn to be more realistic about spending my time on things I'm actually interested in, but the progress on that is also slow. ;)
 
A swing out with a big tire will hide the hole. Out of sight, out of mind.

A “matching” panel at this age rarely actually matches. It’ll probably be a different shade once bolted up.
 
I have ignored it for some time. I did a half baked patch some time ago.

It was making rust blisters so, I got into it today and found someone else's bondo. It needs to have a proper patch brazed into the area.

Or, a new lift gate. I saw on one line and sent them an email about the details of how it works. I do not want a rusty part or one damaged in shipping.

In the meantime, I have other projects to deal with. I cleaned it up, neutralized the visible rust, and applied some white Rustolium. I think I will slip in a piece of Bichuthane flexible adhesive flashing. It will be hidden under the rubber. That mickey mouse fix will buy a little more time.

I do not want water leaking into the truck. No mushrooms! : )

Scot

DSCN1491.webp
 
Definitely need to remove the glass and gasket so you can get a good look at the rot, it likely involves the pinch weld/lip that the gasket attaches to.

Can you cut out the rot and tack weld some sheet metal to replace the bad metal (or find a welder who can MIG/TIG weld sheet metal)?

For a quickie fix you could sand and kill any remaining rust in pits (remove any primer or paint you've applied), tap the edges of the hole to depress them slightly, then add a strip of Bondo self adhesive patch (perforated metal screen) as a backing then apply reinforced body filler, sand, apply glass filler, sand, etc, etc. For a long term repair replacing the metal with new sheet metal may be the better way to go.

FWIW:

 
What you see on the outside is usually nothing compared to what is hiding under the window rubber. So expect a fair bit more work to repair.

I repaired mine, but I had the time and patience.
 
I would not weld anything. I my hands that makes a mess. For many others too. Still it is very popular.

I find that brazing a carefully fitted patch is much neater and easier. Luckily the part of the recess is strait with only the one curve. The compound curves are harder to form
 
Ignore it and drive it. If it was a nice condition rig being kept in a garage than it might be worth fixing. But an outside rig that gets used, juat keep using it.
 
In my experience it’s really hard to stop rust.
Slow it down/ hide it yes.

Time is money so for me if I could find a good clean one with zero rust I would buy it.

With the price these trucks are fetching it worth keeping it nice.

And if it sets out side even better to get it replaced/repaired to keep the weather out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom