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- #41
But they have you when you lack the time or intelligence to figure this stuff out.....
I try and be pretty careful about cost vs content. Was not going to try a Dorman experiment on this....
Ok, what happened? Harmonic Balancer?
- Thread starter BTLSHP
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I try and be pretty careful about cost vs content. Was not going to try a Dorman experiment on this....
Dorman is hit or miss. Seems like parts for Chevy by Dorman is acceptable. For Toyota? Not so much.
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- #43
Ok, HB has arrived, I have ordered a new bearing for the A/C tensioner (feeling cheap same diameter as my bike bottom bracket and I have rearing service tools for that). Ordered a new alternator idler (!) and a 30mm socket. Now I am just clearing stuff out of the way.
Mechanic told me bolt is in with blue Locktite. Tomorrow is sort of a bust, crossing my fingers that Thursday/Friday it all comes back together.....
Thank you everyone for the "rapid response."
For entertainment, here is the future owner making the move for the win at an event hosted by Richmond, VA. Her next move is effectively a pull-up with enough "extra" juice to grab the "40." She is not considered super strong in her peer group .....
I word of advice for high tq bolts in the heavy duty world. Soak bolt in penatrant a day before. Then add heat right before using the impact. This might sound counterproductive but give the bolt a couple quick blasts (2) with the impact gun on TIGHTEN and then try loosen. This almost always works for me..
100% - I've used the tighten and then loosen approach successfully many times
As far as penetrant goes there's a bunch of options but I ended up with Kroil since it doesn't smell nearly as bad as PB blaster. Last summer I was nervous about removing the rusty old shock bolts on my truck, soaked them every day for a few days in advance. On the day of removal I was prepared for battle and they ended up coming off like butter with a standard 3/8 ratchet.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Any chance it is the Febest TDS-1FZFE? That is an alternative Amayama offers. It is also readily available in the US for under $100 and sometimes even with free shipping. Shipping from Japan or UAE is in the $100 range...
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- #47
I just learned the tighten/loosen trick on a rusted bolt I sheared on the spare tire carrier. So, your thinking I ought to bite the bullet and buy a heavy duty impact gun?
This suggests an answer to the question I was about to post:
Am I removing the radiator? It has been drained, the front grill is out. Where I am a bit stuck is I guess I need plugs for the transmission lines and while saw a video of a guy getting around the headlamps to get at the upper bolts, that trick eludes me. Is he using a 1/4" ratchet?
Thanks.
I took the first 2 pounds of West Virginia off of the passenger birf and will do the other tonight.
Fj80oregon
GOLD Star
I would remove the radiator it is easy to damage, and you will be thankful for the extra room. You can use a m8 bolt for the tranny lines as plugs. just remove the headlights to get to the 2 bolts for the radiator. The other HB is a dorman not febest and is the same part but i found it was more expensive than toyota when i was searching.
Just a data point. When I did the oil pump seal I bought the harbor freight 300ftlb wrench and took it to a calibration shop. 300 on my wrench speced out at 305 so we were good to go. Was a cost effective way to feel comfortable with that bolt.
- Thread starter
- #50
Ok, 30mm socket was not easy to find so Amazon delivers tonight. Radiator is ready to come out, because if someone is going to sign it, it will be me.
There were no signs of weeping at the coolant pump, but it dos not spin freely - like two pieces of wet coarse rubber complete with squeak. Ordered ASIN as it has been a bad week on the check book.
I got one of the Birfs mostly free of 30 years of dirt. Tomorrow will be a light day.
Oops! Amazon delivers 30mm socket tomorrow night...
There were no signs of weeping at the coolant pump, but it dos not spin freely - like two pieces of wet coarse rubber complete with squeak. Ordered ASIN as it has been a bad week on the check book.
I got one of the Birfs mostly free of 30 years of dirt. Tomorrow will be a light day.
Oops! Amazon delivers 30mm socket tomorrow night...
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Harbor Freight sells a set of impact sockets including a 30mm. FWIW.
IIRC, a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/4" extensions and 1/4" universal joint are helpful for one or two cushion fasteners at the top of the radiator. Consider replacing all the cushions/rubber isolators while the radiator is out.
If you end up removing the headlamp assemblies and front corner lamps be extra careful to not stress, bend, or break the mounting tabs. One tip for the corner lamps, after removing one screw at the top tab you slap the lamp forward with the palm of your hand striking the side of the lamp. If it's stuck then plastic upholstery tools can be used to carefully pry between the lamp and headlamp near the lower front aspect along with slapping forward, IME. What holds it in place is a metal post shaped like a bowling pin (fatter in the middle) that is held by a nylon hole plug. If that post is rusty it's harder to remove. FWIW.
IIRC, a 1/4" drive ratchet with 1/4" extensions and 1/4" universal joint are helpful for one or two cushion fasteners at the top of the radiator. Consider replacing all the cushions/rubber isolators while the radiator is out.
If you end up removing the headlamp assemblies and front corner lamps be extra careful to not stress, bend, or break the mounting tabs. One tip for the corner lamps, after removing one screw at the top tab you slap the lamp forward with the palm of your hand striking the side of the lamp. If it's stuck then plastic upholstery tools can be used to carefully pry between the lamp and headlamp near the lower front aspect along with slapping forward, IME. What holds it in place is a metal post shaped like a bowling pin (fatter in the middle) that is held by a nylon hole plug. If that post is rusty it's harder to remove. FWIW.
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- Thread starter
- #52
I got the headlamps and corners out safely. I will try and get the radiator rubber ordered in the next hour. The water pump comes tomorrow night along with the idler for the alternator.
I got an inexpensive set of Craftsman 1/4 tools and they have become my standby for all the little stuff, but I need a decent 1/4” torque wrench with a metric scale
I got an inexpensive set of Craftsman 1/4 tools and they have become my standby for all the little stuff, but I need a decent 1/4” torque wrench with a metric scale
I had to replace my HB on a 1HD diesel 80. Some notes: I did it at a military auto craft shop, which was good as I had access to just about all of the tools I'd need. I had to remove batteries, fan, radiator, and belts to get it off. It took me most of 7 hours- mostly due to my inexperience. Removing the center bolt required it to be heated with a blowtorch- gently- and then it came off with a socket and an extension bar. I got the new one on, and proceeded to put Humpty-Dumpty back together again. My HB came from an italian auto parts shop- I was wishing I had RockAuto, for sure. Then, about a year later, i was chasing an oil leak in the front, and discovered that it was coming from the seal around the HB. By then, I had relocated to Stuttgart, Germany, and got hooked up with Gerhard, a much more experienced mechanic buddy, who had the unfortunate habit of referring the LC as "Dien Tractor". We put the truck on a lift, and removed the HB from underneath- MUCH easier- and slipped a new seal in. No more oil leak! So, I'd recommend a new seal as well.
Yes get an impact gun from HF for this job. You can always return it to HF.
Remove radiator so the bolt doesn’t unthread and push the impact gun into the back side of the radiator.
The 1/4 with wobble extensions will most likely work to remove the buried bolts..
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- #55
I got the 1/4" on the hidden bolts, so I know I can get them. Found the coolant pump had a rough bearing and ordered an ASIN replacement which arrives tomorrow. Radiator comes out tonight and a friend will help tomorrow on the crank bolt.
Since I do not have the elegant holder tool you guys make, I am going with using a deep 14mm in the transmission window. Home Depot looks like they have a Memorial Day Sale on for a big impact gun....
Since I do not have the elegant holder tool you guys make, I am going with using a deep 14mm in the transmission window. Home Depot looks like they have a Memorial Day Sale on for a big impact gun....
The old Fonzi move on the corner lights... Damn im that old
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- #57
Ok, I cobbled together this crude holder for the crank bolt. In elegant by the standards of this group, but it actually got the job done. 4' black iron pipe on my breaker bar and the thing yielded with a bit of effort. My torque wrench only goes to 250 ft. pounds, so I got it there and used the breaker bar and pipe to go a bit more.
The water pump arrived and the idlers were replaced.
The only issue I am a bit stumped on it the shroud is back on the radiator, it seems to be in the correct spot as th bolts align, but it is touching the fan at about 3 o'clock looking from the front of the car. Ideas would be appreciated.
The outer ring on the old HB was almost halfway off.
The water pump arrived and the idlers were replaced.
The only issue I am a bit stumped on it the shroud is back on the radiator, it seems to be in the correct spot as th bolts align, but it is touching the fan at about 3 o'clock looking from the front of the car. Ideas would be appreciated.
The outer ring on the old HB was almost halfway off.
Did you remove the radiator? Maybe it’s not quite in the right spot?
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- #59
Ugh! Replacing the radiator was tedious! It was a hugely tight fit.....but I see your point. I will have a closer look in the morning. I thought everything fit well in the end, getting the top bolts started was a PIA.
Thanks for the idea
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